Hi Guys, I have a 98 2wd with the automatic 4r44e transmission and 2.5l.

I'm having issues shifting out of first and both my speedometer and odometer don't work.

The ABS light is on and that is it. I don't have a check engine light nor do I have an O/D light flickering. I also have reverse and first but that's it.

I changed the ABS Wheel Speed sensor on the rear differential and repaired the pigtail to it because the wire was clipped but it didn't change anything.

Any suggestions???

 

If the wire(s) were broken to Speed Sensor then fuses may have blown if they shorted.

On '98 the speed sensor may go thru the ABS module and then to computer and speedo, also cruise control if so equipped.
The computer controls transmission shifting.

There are a few fuses for the ABS depending on model, there should be two in the engine fuse box, and one in the cab fuse box
Check them.

 

Okay i'll try that out. I'll let you know what I find out

 

Well after going through the fuse panels all I found was one bad resistor for the abs. I am in the process of finding another one at a junk yard because they are 20 dollars from ford.

I'm going to keep doing some more research, I'll let you know if that resistor fixes anything. Thanks!

 

I found a good resistor at the junk yard and replaced it. It didnt seem to fix anything.

I did add some more fluid to it and I got it to shift into second manually, and the O/D on/off light started flashing on and off.

I'm not sure if thats any better than where I was at before?

Not quite sure..

 

For a 98 2wd 2.5L:

Speed sensor (ABS sensor) on top of diff sends signal to GEM.
GEM takes signal and changes frequency based on tire size (REVS/MILE).
New signal is sent to ABS, Instrument Cluster, PCM, and cruise module.

$5 bucks says bad sensor on top of rear differential. My 2000 2.5L went bad at about 80k miles.

 

Well I checked the RABS Module harness and it was unplugged!

It was a repo and they supposedly "disconnected the odometer" whatever that means. I'm not quite sure how you do that.

I checked the wires from the speed sensor to the RABS harness when it was unplugged and both of them read on the ohms meter. Also I checked the connection from the RABS module to the GEM and that read Ohms as well. All of the wiring seems to be good. I plugged the harness into the module and took her out for a rip.

It shifted into 2nd and 3rd but the O/D light was still flashing. The ABS light is still on and the speedometer still doesn't work. Is there a speed sensor at the end of the speedo cable? I replaced the sensor on the rear differential already so it should be good technically... (hopefully) lol

It's getting closer but just something isnt all the way right.

 

1994 was the last year of the mechanical speedometer cable, '95 and up is strictly electronic.

So you have no speedo cable, just the VSS.

VSS sensor on the axle sends it's pulses to the ABS module first, then it goes to the GEM(generic electronic module), GEM changes/corrects the pulses for tire size and rear differential ratio, then it goes to speedometer and computer(for shifting and other uses)

It could go to computer and then speedo, just not sure of the GEM wiring

 

Yeah I checked all the wiring from the sensor to the RABS Module to the GEM to the PCM. The only thing I didnt check is a branch of the wire to the instrument cluster/cruise control.

That is the last wire VSS related. Other than the wire idk what else it could be?

Is there anyway to test the speedometer gage itself?

 

I have a 2000 ranger automatic transmission. 2wheel drive. It was rebuilt and has about 35000 miles on it. It shifts fine but between 2 and 3rd it slips. Fluid was recently changed and everything. I have adjusted bands and still does this. Any one know the issue?

 

Welcome to the forum

You should start your own thread, posting your question in someone else's thread is considered rude, like interrupting a conversation by changing the subject
Doesn't matter how old the original thread is, just a general rule in most forums

Google: Ford Ranger 2-3 Flare
Fairly common issue, but has a few different possible causes
Most common is low pressure, all automatics run on ATF Fluid pressure, its what makes them "automatics", lol

Also have a read here, not the whole thing but the parts about the 4R and 5R transmissions: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne...0_web_ford.pdf

 

Under the driver's seat there is a "Body Harness Connector" - it bundles some signals to the back of the truck, specifically the VSS from the rear differential.
If you are VERY lucky, it is water intrusion.
Remove the bolt/plastic cover, disconnect the harness, spray everything with electrical contact cleaner and inspect.
Best case: It's fine, fill with dielectric grease to discourage water intrusion.
Worst case: There are broken wires, or corroded connectors.
On my 2001 I had to replace the pins/connectors - or just solder the wires together without the connector.
Since this Ranger is a salvage title and is destined to go to the scrapyard once I pull the engine, trans, computer and drivetrain harness, I just soldered the ends together and called it good.
Worked like a champ.

 

So I adjusted my pressure solenoid and it fixed the flaring from 2 to 3 but goes in over drive fine. When I go down the interstate it is in overdrive and I floor it and it wants to flare out of gear. Would that be a band adjustment?

 

Band adjustment front and rear two turns out