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Changing my fuel filter on my 97 2.3. Not sure which to pull while the truck is running to depressurize system. I see there is a fuel system fuse and a fuel pump relay. I imagine I must pull the relay and that the fuse controls fuel injectors. Just figured I’d double check since I just got the truck and am doing baseline maintenance
Separately: wish me luck as I’m taking down spark plugs and wires on Sunday! Peace love and **** the engineers.
What Ron said.
Regarding the spark plugs:
I have the 2.5L so basically a (slightly) factory worked 2.3L, although different heads etc. were used at times. .
When my timing belt broke is when I did my plugs and wires. I found that I could reach the driver side plugs if I removed the throttle body and stood on the passenger side, on a cinder block to reach across.
It was still a bit tricky at times but much easier than trying it with everything in place. Due to no room with the intake still in place I didn't use the plastic extensions, it was just too restrictive and I was already fed up with the engine by then after problems with the timing belt. You probably want to use them though if you plan on pulling the wires in the future.
I should have used them on mine.
If you do remove the throttle body, use a new gasket. The hardest part of reinstalling the throttle body for me was the PCV line that connects to the lower tube. But it might be different on the 2.3L. I'm not sure what's the same and what is different.
You're right about the engineers, I don't know what they were thinking with this engine, but there are worse engines to work on.
I didn't remove the upper intake plenum since I wasn't sure if the bolts could be re torqued and had trouble finding the right ones to buy a new set.
One of the worst things about owning an older Ranger is the fact you'll run into "Discontinued" for damn near everything. It makes finding parts a real p.i.t.a.
I now have a 2000 Ford Ranger shop manual which covers the 2.5L, 3.0L, 4.0L push rod, and the 4.0L but no mention of the 2.3L for some reason. It mentions nothing about using new intake manifold bolts for the upper plenum so you might be okay using the old ones if they're still in good condition.
Here is the removal/installation procedure for the 2.5L but I'm not sure if it's also for the 2.3L, someone else might want to weigh in on that.
If this does apply to your 2.3L, let me know if you need anything else, such as the Lower Intake procedure.
What Ron said.
Regarding the spark plugs:
I have the 2.5L so basically a (slightly) factory worked 2.3L, although different heads etc. were used at times. .
When my timing belt broke is when I did my plugs and wires. I found that I could reach the driver side plugs if I removed the throttle body and stood on the passenger side, on a cinder block to reach across.
It was still a bit tricky at times but much easier than trying it with everything in place. Due to no room with the intake still in place I didn't use the plastic extensions, it was just too restrictive and I was already fed up with the engine by then after problems with the timing belt. You probably want to use them though if you plan on pulling the wires in the future.
I should have used them on mine.
If you do remove the throttle body, use a new gasket. The hardest part of reinstalling the throttle body for me was the PCV line that connects to the lower tube. But it might be different on the 2.3L. I'm not sure what's the same and what is different.
You're right about the engineers, I don't know what they were thinking with this engine, but there are worse engines to work on.
I didn't remove the upper intake plenum since I wasn't sure if the bolts could be re torqued and had trouble finding the right ones to buy a new set.
One of the worst things about owning an older Ranger is the fact you'll run into "Discontinued" for damn near everything. It makes finding parts a real p.i.t.a.
I now have a 2000 Ford Ranger shop manual which covers the 2.5L, 3.0L, 4.0L push rod, and the 4.0L but no mention of the 2.3L for some reason. It mentions nothing about using new intake manifold bolts for the upper plenum so you might be okay using the old ones if they're still in good condition.
Here is the removal/installation procedure for the 2.5L but I'm not sure if it's also for the 2.3L, someone else might want to weigh in on that.
If this does apply to your 2.3L, let me know if you need anything else, such as the Lower Intake procedure.
Yeah man that’s perfect thank you, one question about your experience. Did you remove the upper plenum completely? Or did you just move it off to the side when needed? Was taking a look at it and that last bolt on the back rear side under the egr valve seems like a pain to put back in but if I can just shimmy it out a bit and move the plenum around when needed would that work? The only problem I see when I run that through my head is having trouble putting new gasket on, but I figured I could just pull that last bolt enough to where the intake can be lifted but stay in the car and just install the gasket.
Pull out the Fuel Pump Relay #6 or the Fuel system fuse #3
Then crank the engine over for 5 seconds two times, and pressure should be gone
Thanks Ron, I appreciate it. Knew I was overthinking it. Lot of stuff on this truck that I haven’t seen before. Had a 98 wrangler with the 4.0 for a long time and only did work on that Lego car.
As I mentioned, I didn't remove the upper intake since I wasn't sure if I could reuse the bolts. I just removed the throttle body and reached over from the passenger side fender. The plugs and wires can be replaced without removing either the upper intake or the throttle body, but it's pretty hard to do.
You could try your way( moving intake to the side) but like you said, you would have a problem with the new gasket. And you would want to use a new gasket.
As far as hard to reach bolts: I use my flexible grab tool on the bolt head. I was able to easily reach even the rear driver side valve cover bolt hole and get the bolt started no problem when I had to replace the timing belt.
If you do remove the upper intake, I would suggest getting the appropriate PCV and vacuum lines before hand, then replace the lines while you have the room to do it.
Depending on the shape of your lines one or more might rip or crumble during intake removal anyway. I would also replace the PCV and grommet.
I got mine at the local Ford Dealer. I don't remember what each one cost separately but the PCV valve/grommet and Brake Booster check valve/grommet cost me $80.
Expensive, but I wanted genuine OEM.
I didn't remove anything to replace my PCV and grommet except whichever fuel injector plug was in the way. Then I used 2 pair of extended reach needle nose pliers.
