I have a 96 ranger with a 2.3 engine. I have a nice RAM air set up and I'm running headers with a flowmaster. So with the upgrade I figured it wouldnt hurt to add a little more fuel to get some more out of it. Also im pretty certain that its running lean. Currently it has stock 14lb injectors. I'm thinking of upgrading to 15lb injectors. Also iv seen some 4 hole designs and was a little skeptical on whether these would be better or not.Is there anything I should know before diving in? I also wanted to know what's the largest i could go with? Iv read that 17 is the largest you can install without a custom tune. So what would be the best size for my truck? Thanks!

 

Fuel injectors are not the same a Jets on a carb.
You don't get more fuel from a larger injector, because it is larger

The computer runs the air/fuel mixture at 14.7/1 ratio, so it decides how much fuel to add, regardless of injector size.
If you increase the air flow then computer will increase the fuel based on that increase in the air flow.
Stock 14lb injectors are used with bigger cams and even turbos, they have plenty of "head room" for increased fuel flow as air flow increases.

The computer is also programmed with a range of expected Pulse Widths for the stock injector size.
Pulse width is the time the injector is open.
To add a specific amount of fuel the computer opens each injector for a specific amount of time.
If you install larger injectors then computer will need to shorten the Pulse Width/Open time because too much fuel is flowing in, if the shorter pulse width is too short computer will turn on the CEL(check engine light) to notify driver of that problem.
Pulse width is out of specified Range.


And the basic issue is that adding more fuel does NOT give you more power, it floods the engine so you have less power.

You get more power by adding more AIR, which allows you to add more fuel without flooding the engine.
A 5.0l engine has more power than a 2.0l engine because it uses more AIR, 3 liters more air.
A super or turbo charged engine uses more AIR, so has more power.

Fuel isn't power, air is power, fuel is just an additive, lol.

And the gasoline air/fuel mix is a WEIGHT ratio, not a volume ratio, 14.7 POUNDS of air are mixed with 1 POUND of fuel, to get the correct ratio.
So vaporizers or "pre-vaporizers" were all a bunch of hooey, lol, it reads well but a little more reading will show you it is not real.
200mpg carbs are the same hooey.

While the 4 port nozzle reads like a better mix method, and nothing wrong with it, it would not change performance over a 1 port if both were working as designed.

 

Dang. IV been trying to find ways of adding a little more power to my little truck. It seems like it should have a little more power than what it has now. 4th gear is useless unless your going down hill. Itll just sputter and kick until you drop it back into third. I figured it was running lean. Not sure what's causing the bad performance.

 

2.3l is a high RPM motor, RPMs need to be above 2,500 to have any power at all.

Check what axle ratio you have by looking here: Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Inch Axle Tag & Door Codes

3.73 was the "normal" ratio
4.10 gives better low-end and pulling power, but less MPG on highway
3.55 or lower is better for MPG on highway, but loses low-end power

4cyl rangers often came with the lower ratios, point of the 4cyl engine in a truck was MPG not power, so.............

Larger diameter tires lowers the axle ratio, stock tire size is on that door label

Google: ranger throttle cable mod

Many rangers no longer get full throttle because cable has stretched, easy fix for that.


If engine looses power at higher RPMs then change fuel filter, $10

Also get a vacuum gauge($25) and test for clogged exhaust system
Read here for tests: Technical Articles: Engine testing with a Vacuum Gauge - at Greg's Engine & Machine

Vacuum gauge can tell you ALOT about any gasoline engine, good tool to have.

A Lean mix will cause engine to ping/knock under load, always, so listen for that.

 

So I looked my tag up and I have an open 7.5 with a 3.45 ratio. So if i were to change to a 4.10 would it make it a little faster? how easy would it be to change the ratio? Is it just a simple swap? Or should I just go find a junkyard diff with a 4.10 already in it. ha-ha
Thanks

 

4.10 will make it "peppier" not faster, top speed will be less per RPM

3.45 is a freeway ratio, lower RPM at 70mph for better MPG.

Like starting of in 1st gear(3.40 ratio) you get a peppier response to gas pedal input, but top speed is limited
Starting off in 2nd(2.05) isn't as peppy but top speed is higher.

So the lower the ratio the higher the top speed
The higher the ratio the quicker the response.


Changing out the Ring and pinion set(axle ratio) in the differential does require some knowledge of shimming the gears so they are not too loose or too tight.

Swapping the whole rear axle is just wrench work, so might be a better choice.

You would need an axle from a 1993 to 1997 Ranger, in 1998 they are 2 inches wider, newer body style.


7.5 inch is fine, no reason for an 8.8" with 4cyl
4.10 of course but Limited Slip(L/S) might be a good add if you can find one for a good price.

 

So the 4.10 would help with acceleration. More low end? Where as the current 3.5 is ment for better freeway miles. I only drive around town so maybe I'll see if the local junkyard has a potential swap candidate. Would the rear break drums be any different? Can i swap my drum brakes onto the new diff easily

 

Yes, more low end power, but higher RPMs on the freeway, which may be better, since I have read other posts that say that OD is almost unusable with the 4 cyl engines on any slight uphill grade

It isn't a "night and day" difference but will be noticeable.

Rear brakes will be the same, 9" drums, 1983 to 2009, so yes if your internals are better then you can swap them over to new axle
Some 4.0l did come with 10" which would be a bonus but an unlikely find

read here: Ford Ranger Brake Upgrades