Once at a stop or after I have been coasting with giving the truck gas, I need to feather the pedal before it gets gas.

Not sure if it is an extremely stretched throttle cable or the position senor.

Could it be something else?

 

Whats the idle like on cold start?
Should be high then then start to drop as engine warms up
That's the IAC Valve and ECT sensor working OK

Warm idle should be 750rpms, if higher then you could have a vacuum leak
After engine is fully warmed up and idling
Unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve
RPMs should drop low and engine may even stall, this is GOOD, it means no vacuum leaks

Vacuum is highest at idle, so if there is a vacuum leak then when you give it some "gas" the mix is too lean and engine will stumble
With EFI(fuel injection) there is no Gas Pedal, its an AIR Pedal
With a Carburetor gasoline was actually squirted in when you push down on "gas pedal" that doesn't happen with EFI, you are just adding more air, and the computer should then respond with more gasoline, but in the calculated amount for RPMs and "air", if there is more air than calculated then you get stumbling

If could be a TPS(throttle position sensor) issue, that's certainly on the table, but test for vacuum leak first, and that IAC Valve and ECT are both working, i.e. high idle that lowers as engine warms up

 

The vacuum hose attached to the throttle body was completely dry rotted and the hose connected to the PCV fell off. Replaced the throttle body hose and re-connected the PCV.

Much better.

 

Good stuff

Thanks for the update

 

2001 ford ranger xlt 4.0 V6 manual

Start the truck in park and it runs fine. Put truck in gear and start to accelerate and when truck gets over 2000rpm it will not drop back down. Go to shift and engage clutch still no drop in rpm (sometimes jump 500-1000rpm) move gear into neutral and truck will keep at 2000rpm or more(even if below 2000rpm I shift to neutral and truck will automatically increase rpm till reaches 2000 then pins. (No check engine light or codes)

1.checked acceleration cable and it’s snag free no impingement s

2. Checked cruise control cable and it’s snag free no impingement (disconnect cruise cable and drove around to see if possible leak in vac to cruise allowing plate to hold open )

3. Cleaned throttle body and plate with wire brush and throttle body cleaner(looks brand new now)

4.checked throttle plate spring and still tight (plate opens and closes without impingement

5. Replaced air filter

6. Checked all hoses for vacuum leak. No visible leaks.(unplugged IAC when idle truck stalled out leading me to think also no big leaks in vac system

7. Cleaned mass airflow sensor with mass airflow cleaner

8. Replaced Idle Air Control Valve

9. Replaced Throttle Position sensor

10. Replaced PCV valve and checked elbows for cracks

11.added sea foam to engine

12. Computer dusted cleaned wire plugins to all intake sensors

13. Reset ecu ( disconnected neg battery connection, left positive connection still on battery. Ran jumper cable from disconnected neg connection to the positive connection still on battery. Let sit for 30 mins to drain power to grounds, put key in car waited 30 seconds. Started let sit 10 mins to relearn idle then drove for 15 mins cycling through all gears


Still pinning at 2000rpm in neutral and during shifting of gears( rpm will stay at whatever it’s at during gear shift leading to rough shift and rpm to drop when in gear and take foot off clutch.