hey guys figured i would start my build thread sense i orderd all my parts lastnight, im going to be doing a custom 3 link, using a dana 30 (just for mock up will swap full with 44 and 9inch when im done) ill be using 1.25x16mx3/4 currie Johnny joints and QA1 himes for the track bar and steering with all DOM. im going to use adjustable coil buckets and 6.5 xj springs (still need to buy).

Here is what im starting out with 98 xlt with super lift and 35 mtz's and 4:10 gears







let me know what you think

Thanks
-Andy

 

Whatcha gonna do with that Superlift?? Hmmmm???



GB :)

 

nice start..

where do you get himes from?

also wrap the link in [IMG]link[/IMG] and it will post in the thread -- just a heads up :)

 

im not quite sure yet what im going to do with the lift i have a buddy thats interested in it but ill be willing to take offers

i apologies i was trying to post quickly at work and must have copied wrong

i will have more pictures of everything tomorrow once i find out how to get them on here haha

 

i also got all my stuff from barnes4wd.com and ballistics fab both i highly recommend they are really good products at goood prices!

 

heres some more pictures so far from the build/prebuild projects

freshly cut fenders


all light up for the christmas toy run


buddy with his leafed SAS nissan


dana 30 and springs


Hopefully those springs will work, would anyone know how tall 6in xj lift springs are? the ones i got are roughly 21inches tall..

 

id guess that the 21s are more like a 4" lift spring. i was thinking mine measured around 21 too.

 

so they are a 4"? dang ok i guess i can use them for mockup and set my buckets all the way down

how far from the body mount would you guys suggest mounting the steering gear?
and when i start on the rear what leafs have you guys found work the best? ive herd chevy leafs, toyota leafs... etc

 

I liked the chevy 2wd stock springs the best.

Mount the steering box as far forward as possible. I mean touching the radiator. lol

 

I'm subscribing to this! I may be lucky enough to actually copy it someday..


GB :)

 

with the 2wd springs will i have to re locate the front hanger like you with the 2inch drop?

 

um im not 100% sure if you will need to drop it or not. Depends if you want to run blocks. The front hangers will need to be moved forward however.

figure 2-3" of lift just from swaping springs and figure another inch from running the bel-6400 shackle.


btw those 4" springs will be fine, just change your mount height on the frame.

 

so for a 6 in lift with the chevy shackles i will want to lower it 2 inches because i want no blocks and 6in of lift

 

that should get you really close. nothing wrong with a small block

 

yeah but if i can stay away from it i will,
what are your thoughts on 034x4'S leaf set up before his rebuild? i was looking at it and if i make it so that i can pull a pin or un bolt the arm it will lock to the frame for road use and free hang for off road it might be safer? it was just a thought and i wanted to pass it by you guys

any way heres tonight's progress
yota gear

drilled out pitman arm

home brew pitman arm to use the QA1 joints

welder ran out of gas so i had to go back to flux core wire

 

hey guys Ive been doing a lot of research on a quarter elliptic suspension the past couple days and i was wondering what everyones thoughts were on 034x4s version?

ride hight/tucked/where i would lock it for on road driving


dropped


Top view


im thinking about doing this but but really beefing it up and instead of leaving it to float when driving on road i would modify it so that i can lock it into place making it so its basically just like stock, then when i get to the trail i just unlock it and it acts as its suppose to.

id really appreciate your guys thoughts and criticism and sorry 034x4 if im stepping on your toes at all for doing this

Thanks
-Andy

 

I believe I'd use some type of air/hydraulic bumps on the top where that upper arm meets that tubing..

You're also gonna have to strap it to limit travel from what I'm seeing here.


GB :)

 

the way 034x4 had his set up he didn't have to limit strap it at all because the shackle didn't flip and had no sign of flipping and i also plan to use a pro-works nub bump stop on the arm because i want it resting on something solid when driving on road, but i might put some cans that will reduce the arm from slamming the stop

 

I think you are over thinking flex. You dont really need all of that travel. It will out flex your front by leaps and bounds. I can see that being really unstable if you are side hilling or off camber. The body roll on that is going to be huge. A set of chevy 63's with the belltech shackles are going to be more than enough flex. And if you lift a rear tire, who cares? As long as you are locked front and rear, it isnt going to be a problem. Just my opinion though.

 

that thing is giong to get tossed all over the place. whoever designed that is an uneducated idiot

 

That "uneducated idiot" works at blue torch fab as a fabrication.... and from what I remember that set up worked fairly well.

 

owned hahaha

also he was the first guy on RF with an sas

 

im just thinking of my options, this is the trail im wanting to dominate this. here is my buddy mack and steve on the 3ed drop
YouTube - Mack 3rd drop at independence

 

and one of the sickest in my book

 

ive seen that type of setup on some suzukis, actually theres a calmini shackle kit thats works exactly as the pic. but with a better design, actually a friends got it front and back and has the security pin to hold on street, they call it revolver shackle or some like that...

or another one but dont remember were they got it from , missing link for wrangler heres the build if u want to watch it, 4x4CostaRica.com • View topic - Proyecto Samuro Abraham

hes really happy with it and the thing flexes like hell