TT just isnt high enough. - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 10-24-2007
4x4 EDGE's Avatar
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If you want personal experience I'm the guy to talk to. I bought those fooking keys a couple years ago when I first bought my truck. Being new to trucks I thought this was a cheap and easy way to get a little lift. I bought mine off of ebay just like all the ones you see on there now. I had them on my truck for about 3 months and had to have the ball joints on the driver side replaced twice and the passenger side once. I also had to replace the torsion bars because the had bowed so much. I would not recommend these pieces of shyt to anyone. I feel bad for anyone that is as naive as I was and thinks these are good.
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  #27  
Old 10-24-2007
D.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4offroad99
For everyone talkin down on keys...unless yall have personally installed them on your personal truck then you have no idea on how much they may or may not put suspension components in a bind.
Here we go. Everyone put on your ' thinking caps ' children and lets talk about some simple physics.

I will use MY OWN EXAMPLE OF STUPIDITY to demonstrate as apparently, some people have THICKER skulls then I did ( at that time ).

When one lowers or raises a vehical, the angle of the balljoints changes. This will cause less travel upwards or downwards ( depending which way you go ) before the Balljoint runs out of movement room and the pin hits the edges of the cup.

Ranger balljoints do NOT have much movement room compared to others.

The examples used here are from a lowering application. Lifting is the same but the reverse is performed to the lower balljoint.



Note the pin to spindle. Its NOT straight.



This is whats left of a balljoint after it bottoms out or the pin hits the cup in a solid mannor. NOTE : The arm itself is twisted!

Theres 2 ways to correct such and NEITHER can be done with a ' Key '. The key is the problem to begin with and not part of the solution.

You can fabricate control arms that compensate for the ball joint angles.. Like this :



The same method used im my pic's can be reversed for a lift WITHOUT causing any excessive wear. A spindle solves everything in one event without future issues to the balljoints or drivability. CV shaft wear I don;t have a clue about as I don't have 4wd. Someone else can comment on it.

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I have personally seen a Ranger with aftermarket keys and its not as bad as everyone thinks.
I've seen green munkies tossing torque wrenches around in the same dream as your having.

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But, im sick and tired of trying to explain to ignorant people who have no idea what these keys do...
There are those of us whom have fabircated whole front ends that are sick and tired of people giving others bad advice or the ' cheap fix ', then being called by others saying ' Can I use your garage, I need to fix my truck '...

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that they do what they are supposed to do. A body lift is a "show item" but ppl love them. So, thats fine, buy a body lift, and then ppl gonna make fun of that ugly a$$ gap between the body and the frame...im done in this thread.
Please, be done offering people advise about ' keys ' as they :

1 - put undo stress on the torsion bars
2 - kill balljoinnts
3 - hurt ride comfort
4 - will cause undo cv shaft wear

Folks, stay away from the less then 100$ torsion keys on Ebay and offered elsewhere. If you have a show vehical, fine, buy them and put your ride on a trailor.. but for a daily driver, leave the factory geometry in place or find a reliable and proven form of lift ( spindles/control arms ).
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  #28  
Old 10-24-2007
D.
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Originally Posted by 4x4offroad99
I reckon im the only one on this forum with enough ***** to at least try em, and if they dont work as they are supposed to then I'll eat my own words. imo, its better than a body lift.
Well, You dun there rekoned wrong!

IMO, putting the factory T-Bars out of spec is a bad move. This applies equally for lifting OR lowering. I've done both and had the same miserable results.

When using dropped keys, your eating upper joinnts and control arm bushings on the bottom. When lifting, your eating lower balljoints and T-bars.

Torsion bar suspensions work on na ' floating ' or a ' Balanced ' enviornment. When a variable in that enviornment is changed and a constannt force hits either the lowest or highest rate of twist on the bars, excessive wear/damage is caused.
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  #29  
Old 10-24-2007
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Well if they offered just the spindles for 4x4's id git em, but not everyone has 2k layin around for a 4-6" lift...
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  #30  
Old 10-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4offroad99
not everyone has 2k layin around for a 4-6" lift...
well then crank your bars within limits, and save your money if you want more than that.

its simple geometry and physics, the only way fiddling with keys will change ride height is by addin/removing preload on the torsion bars. i dont care if you use someone elses keys, or play with the bolts on the stock ford ones. its the exact same concept with the exact same results.

the reps you refer to tellin you everything will be ok are LYING. that is their job, they are salesmen. they are tryin to sell you the part and will tell you whatever you want to hear until you open your wallet.
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  #31  
Old 10-24-2007
D.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4offroad99
Well if they offered just the spindles for 4x4's id git em, but not everyone has 2k layin around for a 4-6" lift...
So, instead, you would have them buy a 100$ set of keys and damage everything else?

Theres a REASON things cost what they do. The aftermarket for our trucks is very limited.
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  #32  
Old 10-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby
well then crank your bars within limits, and save your money if you want more than that.

its simple geometry, the only way fiddling with keys will change ride height is by addin more preload to the torsion bars. i dont care if you use someone elses keys, or crank up the bolts on the stock ford ones. its the exact same concept with the exact same results.

the reps you refer to tellin you everything will be ok are LYING. that is their job, they are salesmen. they are tryin to sell you the part and will tell you whatever you want to hear until you open your wallet.
Lol, good point. Well I would crank em up, but I reckon i better just wait and do it the right way. I do moderate offroading, I cranked them up b4 I went last time, and while I was articulating on rocks I herd this awful popping sound in my front end, so when I got home I turned them back down and it stopped.
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  #33  
Old 10-24-2007
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or just get #1 t bars if a tt isnt high enough. Thats the answer i was looking for when started this thread.
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  #34  
Old 10-24-2007
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Torsion twist? Is that a new dance or something?
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  #35  
Old 10-25-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTLaccord
Torsion twist? Is that a new dance or something?
nope. not new.
it is a very old dance between tire fittment and suspension parts life.
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