Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

Unsure on how to go about replacing shock absorbers

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Old Oct 9, 2020
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Jones00's Avatar
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From: Niota
Icon5 Unsure on how to go about replacing shock absorbers

I need to replace all four shock absorbers on my ranger (1998 ford ranger XLT 2x2 RWD 2.5L 4-cylinder). I don't know if I am supposed to replace the coil springs too, and I was told by a friend that using the cheap handheld spring compressors is dangerous and it should be done with the expensive machines. I don't want to have to take it to a shop and be charged an arm and a leg just because they have the expensive tool, and I don't want to buy new coil springs if I don't have to. My springs are not broken or cracked so I assume they are fine, it's just the shock absorbers are shot. I don't have any experience working with the suspension system so I don't know what the right call is here. Can someone give me some advice on this?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020
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2011Supercab's Avatar
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From: Everett, WA
Easy to replace, no special tools needed
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020
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From: Niota
Originally Posted by 2011Supercab
Easy to replace, no special tools needed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rk-v...l=FixItPhillip
Thanks for showing me that video, it cleared things up for me. the videos I watched didn't have a spring in the front for whatever reason so I assumed you had to take it out to get the shock absorber. and the shocks he was putting in look exactly like the ones I was looking at getting. the only other question I can think of is, is it necessary to take your tires off to do this? I can understand if its the only way to get to the part, but on the rear shock it looks unnecessary. is there a reason he took off the tires and lifted his truck other than convenience or is it fine to do it with the truck resting on the tires like normal?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020
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Tires can probably stay on.

Lifting it will probably be necessary so the suspension hangs down, I don't think the front shocks will come out while sitting on the ground, also with the suspension hanging down you won't have to try and compress the shock as much to attach it, gas charged shocks are almost impossible to compress.

ALWAYS use jackstands when working under a lifted vehicle, never trust the jack.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020
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From: Niota
Icon14

Thanks for answering my questions, I appreciate the help.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2020
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I believe you can test if you need new springs from the ride height. With truck in level ground measure both left and right corners from bumper to ground. If they are different it could mean you need new springs. Shocks are pretty easy. I did take the front wheels off and popped hood to replace mine. The back shocks I just crawled under there and swapped them out. Didn't need to remove anything else.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2020
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Originally Posted by Webby
I believe you can test if you need new springs from the ride height. With truck in level ground measure both left and right corners from bumper to ground. If they are different it could mean you need new springs. Shocks are pretty easy. I did take the front wheels off and popped hood to replace mine. The back shocks I just crawled under there and swapped them out. Didn't need to remove anything else.
I didn't think of measuring the ride hight to check the springs, I just looked for obvious damage. I'll check the ride hight just in case though, couldn't hurt.

And I was able to replace the shocks with no problem. in fact, I was able to replace all four without having to take off the wheels or lift the truck. it was a bit cramped working around the front tires, and it helped to lift the front end a couple of inches with a jack to get the new shocks in. the only hard part was getting the top nut off on the two front shocks. they were completely rusted on, and in case anyone else has that same problem, don't use a torch to get those nuts off. there are some vacuum lines too close to it hidden behind the dust shield. I ended up cutting them off with a reciprocating saw.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2020
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From: Hackensack, Nj
'Twas said above regarding ride height, "With truck in level ground measure both left and right corners from bumper to ground."

I'm sure no expert on this but EVERY time ride height is mentioned the measurement used was center of the wheel (hub, if you like) to the 12 o'clock position of the wheel arch (fender cut out, if you like).

Differences of 1/2" or less are ignored, I've read.

Bumpers get banged out of original position normally. I suppose fenders can too.
 
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