My first reactions:
*Verify air filter is clean.
* Pull the vacuum hose on the FPR immediately after the engine has been shut off and inspect for the presence of gas. If there is gas in this vac line, the FPR has failed and must be replaced.
*Perform a visual on everything under the hood ensuing it is in proper condition and order. This means, no disconnected electrical connections, abraded and shorting wires, disconnected vac hoses, burned vac hoses, missing vac hoses, cracked/leaking vac hoses, and proper routing/connections, all the usual items that a good visual once over would flag and fix.
*Pull and post the DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes, ie, the "codes"). The first codes of interest would be KOEO (ie, key on, engine off) as these codes must be fixed before moving on to KOER (engine running) and CM (continuous memory). If you have no KOER codes, pull KOER codes and post them as they and their resolution are next in line. Finally, if there are no KOEO and KOER codes, pull and post CM codes, they are the last to be corrected.
You could pull all of these codes during the same service procedure (it's not tough, you should be able to do this and no special tools or fancy training are required), but if you find a KOEO code you may as well stop right there and post all KOEO codes because the ensuing KOER and CM codes aren't of value at this time. The reason for this is, the cause for one code can also trigger other codes, of which those other codes are not a real (problem). Said another way, things work and and to fix you want to follow protocol. As such, when fixing codes, you always want to start with the lowest number code in a group, (group = for example, KOEO). It is possible that fixing that first and lowest number code will clear up and and all other codes, this is why it is important to follow the sequence that I noted (and is per Ford). This is just how it's gotta be done with the Ford EEC-IV engine management system, which is what you have. In a nutshell, the sequence of repair is KOEO, KOER, then CM, and start with the lowest code # in each group.
Hopefully, this get's you started on the road to fixing. The reason I suggested the FPR check is because it's known to be an an item that can fail and cause a significant rich condition like yours (black smoke) abruptly. The test for this is quick and doesn't cost a dime.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 10-28-2011 at 11:09 AM.