Doublechecking my 4.56 re-gear part list, help!
#1
05-31-2007
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Doublechecking my 4.56 re-gear part list, help!
Summit has the best prices I could find on Richmond Gear.
4.56 8.8 Standard Cut R&P set http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ew=8192&N=700+
Which one of these notched cross pins do I need? Two are listed; same price, both made by richmond, different part numbers though. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ew=8192&N=700+
Richmond Gear Mega Series R&P Installation Kit http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=RMG-831043M
4.56 D35 Standard Cut R&P set http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I guess Richmond doesn't make an installation kit for a D35. It's not listed on their site, then again it doesn't list ANY part for a D35 and I found their gears.
So I found ones made by Motive, Superior, and Ratech. All around $150. I found a Terraflex kit but they want $230 for that. pshhhh.
So, is my list complete? Any suggestions on the D35 installation kit? Any issues with the D35 4.56's and my aussie lock that's going in at the same time?
Royal Purple is going in both diff's. I can use the oem weight in the front but what weight is to be used in the rear with the torsen? I know the manual say's 'FX4 only' with a different weight than the others. Is that what I should use?
4.56 8.8 Standard Cut R&P set http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ew=8192&N=700+
Which one of these notched cross pins do I need? Two are listed; same price, both made by richmond, different part numbers though. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ew=8192&N=700+
Richmond Gear Mega Series R&P Installation Kit http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=RMG-831043M
4.56 D35 Standard Cut R&P set http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I guess Richmond doesn't make an installation kit for a D35. It's not listed on their site, then again it doesn't list ANY part for a D35 and I found their gears.
So I found ones made by Motive, Superior, and Ratech. All around $150. I found a Terraflex kit but they want $230 for that. pshhhh.
So, is my list complete? Any suggestions on the D35 installation kit? Any issues with the D35 4.56's and my aussie lock that's going in at the same time?
Royal Purple is going in both diff's. I can use the oem weight in the front but what weight is to be used in the rear with the torsen? I know the manual say's 'FX4 only' with a different weight than the others. Is that what I should use?
#2
05-31-2007
you wont need the notched cross pin.....just take a bit out of 1 of the ring gears teeth and your stock pin will slid right in........
the rear end can take the same weight gear oil as the front.....75w90 full synthetic......
just a suggestion, i would run some cheaper synthetic gear oil in the diffs for about 500-1000 miles and then drain it and fill with the Royal Purple.....that way if there is any shavings from the gears breaking in, it wont stay in your diff........no matter what fluid you run in your truck, you should drain and refill after 500-1000 miles........
if you use full synthetic in the rear, you wont need any friction modifiers for the Torsen....
the rear end can take the same weight gear oil as the front.....75w90 full synthetic......
just a suggestion, i would run some cheaper synthetic gear oil in the diffs for about 500-1000 miles and then drain it and fill with the Royal Purple.....that way if there is any shavings from the gears breaking in, it wont stay in your diff........no matter what fluid you run in your truck, you should drain and refill after 500-1000 miles........
if you use full synthetic in the rear, you wont need any friction modifiers for the Torsen....
#3
05-31-2007
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The torsen doesn't need friction modifier......it's clutchless 
Good idea about the cheap stuff+flush though. If gumby is up to it, I might see if we can tap a hole for a bottom drain plug.
The LII rear needs a different weight though according to the Ford manual.
I'd almost rather spend the $$$ on the notched cross pin than tear up new gears.
Good idea about the cheap stuff+flush though. If gumby is up to it, I might see if we can tap a hole for a bottom drain plug.
The LII rear needs a different weight though according to the Ford manual.
I'd almost rather spend the $$$ on the notched cross pin than tear up new gears.
#4
05-31-2007
since the housing will be completely empty, i dont see a reason not to add a drain plug. jus make sure you bring a plug and the correct size drill bit and tap!
we may or may not have big enough stuff here depending on what size plug you get.
notched pin vs. clearencing the teeth is up to you, both work.
we may or may not have big enough stuff here depending on what size plug you get.
notched pin vs. clearencing the teeth is up to you, both work.
#6
05-31-2007
Originally Posted by l2en
The torsen doesn't need friction modifier......it's clutchless
Good idea about the cheap stuff+flush though. If gumby is up to it, I might see if we can tap a hole for a bottom drain plug.
The LII rear needs a different weight though according to the Ford manual.
I'd almost rather spend the $$$ on the notched cross pin than tear up new gears.
Good idea about the cheap stuff+flush though. If gumby is up to it, I might see if we can tap a hole for a bottom drain plug.
The LII rear needs a different weight though according to the Ford manual.
I'd almost rather spend the $$$ on the notched cross pin than tear up new gears.
when are you coming to Indy to do the gears? i might have to ride up that day....
#7
05-31-2007
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Originally Posted by gumby
since the housing will be completely empty, i dont see a reason not to add a drain plug. jus make sure you bring a plug and the correct size drill bit and tap!
we may or may not have big enough stuff here depending on what size plug you get.
notched pin vs. clearencing the teeth is up to you, both work.
we may or may not have big enough stuff here depending on what size plug you get.
notched pin vs. clearencing the teeth is up to you, both work.
Which would save time/be easier as far as pin vs. clearancing? Don't wanna be up all night with this damn thing after a ten hour drive =]
#8
05-31-2007
Originally Posted by l2en
Sweet, I'll find a plug then. I'm only thinking a one inch diameter. Nothing too big, beats trying to suck the stuff from out the top. Any ideas on the thickness of the plug?
Which would save time/be easier as far as pin vs. clearancing? Don't wanna be up all night with this damn thing after a ten hour drive =]
Which would save time/be easier as far as pin vs. clearancing? Don't wanna be up all night with this damn thing after a ten hour drive =]
#9
05-31-2007
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#10
05-31-2007
Originally Posted by l2en
I'm coming up the Friday before the badlands meet (July 13th?)
You should bring your street queen out for some action =]
You should bring your street queen out for some action =]
yea i bet i jump right on that......i don't think i will make Badlands, but i might make the gear swap....
#11
05-31-2007
make sure you get the correct application on the pin, for sure. you have the torsen, make sure they know that when you order if you go that route!
fluid weight; i see no reason to differ from fords req.
gears dont care, and the front locker wont care either.
IMO synthetic is a waste of $$$ in a truck that sees any under water time. but its your $$$
fluid weight; i see no reason to differ from fords req.
gears dont care, and the front locker wont care either.
IMO synthetic is a waste of $$$ in a truck that sees any under water time. but its your $$$
#12
05-31-2007
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