Hi Everyone,

On the way home the other day, my 1997 Ford ranger suddenly died. I was able to coast to the median and then when I attempted to restart the truck, it would crank but not restart. I had the truck towed home where I began to diagnose some issues. Foolishly I want to head and replaced the fuel pump thinking that it was this automatically. Upon further diagnosis when the truck wouldn’t restart after this repair, I found that the truck is receiving spark, the rail is getting fuel pressure at 40 psi, and the injectors are receiving electrical pulses as found out by use of a noid kit. I also went ahead and replaced the camshaft position sensor. After all of this trouble shooting and some moderate repairs, the truck still cranks but does not start. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

 

Welcome to the forum

Do 50/50 test, FIRST, always when you have a crank but no start
Remove air tube from intake
Spray gasoline or Ether(quick start) in to the intake
Try to start engine

If it doesn't start then you have no spark
If it starts and then dies you have no fuel
50/50


There is no way to test for spark at the right time, except 50/50
There is no way to tell if injectors are letting enough fuel in, except 50/50

You can test for spark and fuel pressure and injectors pulse, and...........................but do 50/50 test FIRST, that does it all

 

Hey Ron,

Thanks for the reply. However I have some follow-up questions. The 50/50 rule you’re talking about seems to only account for if I have spark and if I have fuel. Both have been confirmed though... I am confused at how I have spark and fuel but no backfiring or chugging or anything. I did try to spray some gasoline in the intake (air intake removed of course) and I did not have any of the symptoms above either.

I guess my question is now...how do I have fuel in the cylinder, and what I think is confirmed spark (unless all spark plugs went bad at same exact time) by using a tester tool to see arc, and yet still no combustion?

 

Just noticed this is a 4cyl Ranger, pre-2001

Your timing belt broke

Check to see if Cam gear is turning when engine is cranking, it won't be
So you can have spark and fuel but without valves its a moot point :)

 

And to further clarify his point, timing belts hardly "break" in a traditional sense, where the belt blows up and is in pieces (a noticeable failure)

Most every timing belt failure I have ever experiences across a multitude of platforms, is that the belt teeth get sheared off at the crank, seemingly happening out of nowhere, often happening when you go to start it back up.

 

Hi there...check to see if you have a fuel shutoff under dash on passenger side. it is mounted up against the firewall. I have a 2004 and this thing failed while i was driving to work. it has a reset but i replace mine. Simple thing but if no fuel she won't go....good luck.

 

He mentioned he had both fuel pressure as well as injector pulse.

I would also suggest replacing the oil if you've been cranking on it a lot. Fuel soaked oil will cook up bearings pretty quickly.

 

Hi Everyone,

Quick update! So the timing belt had about 6 inches of teeth sheered off at the crank and now that I’m ready to install the new one, I can’t get the center bolt out of the pulley for the crank shaft. I’ve tried all know ways that I can think of. I’ve put the PB Blaster to it and then tried with a pneumatic impact wrench (~800ft lb breaking force) and nothing. Then I tried putting the breaker bar to it with it wedged against the frame and cranking it over for a second...still nothing. I just cannot get this freaking bolt loose. Sending it to a mechanic at the end of the week but if anyone sees anything I’m missing, please let me know.

Thanks!

 

They can be a pain

Starter motor usually works

All that's left is heating and then cooling quickly with air, repeat a few times to break bolt threads away from crank