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2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 03-06-2014
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Check Engine Light

I'm not sure this is the right forum but I have searched the internet for days and have yet to fully figure out my problem. It is a 1994 Mazda
B3000 (Ranger in disguise) with 84,000 miles in which the check engine light comes on after it warms up (2 to 3 miles). I cannot tell any thing is wrong other than the ck engine light as it seems to run fine. This truck was my late fathers and has only been driven about 100 miles a year for the past 5 years. The check engine light has been coming on as long as I can remember. I have changed the O2 sensors and the EGR value from internet discussions but it hasn't helped. I am through just throwing parts at it. I get the following error code(s) when jumpering and counting flashes as this is an OBD1 system.
3273271327327 Any suggestions or similiar experiences?
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Old 03-07-2014
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I can't figure out how to decipher that bunch of numbers to even figure out what code you are talking about.
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Old 03-07-2014
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The string of numbers are the flashes of the ck engine light. Jumper the A and B terminals of the EEC test terminal, turn ignition switch on (not cranked). I get a quick flashing of the ck engine light then a pause then start counting the flashes.

3 flashes, pause; 2 flashes, pause; 7 flashes, pause; 3 flashes, pause; 2 flashes, pause; 7 flashes, pause; longer pause, 1 flash, pause; then 327 327 as it started. I wondered if the 327, 327 is a sequence that starts the diagnostics codes and ends it, with the "1" in the middle being the valid error code. When I disconnect the battery to remove any codes, the 327's are always present. Does this make sense or have I done something wrong?
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Old 03-07-2014
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Whoa. Just go to a parts store, autozone, parts america, Oreilys, etc., and have them pull the code. You will get a number, like for example PO401. I think you will have better luck finding your answer with those numbers.
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Old 03-07-2014
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Both Advance Auto and Autozone tell me they cannot pull the codes. The codes are OBD1, they can only pull OBD2 which I think started in 1995. In fact Advance Auto told me to jumper the terminals and count the flashes, which I already knew.
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Old 03-07-2014
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Here's a list of codes. You said you replaced the EGR valve. Is there also an EGR sensor on that truck?

OBD-I 3-Digit Codes |
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Old 03-07-2014
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You really have me thinking on this one. I stumbled on this thread, gets really detailed, but might be worth a read for you.

327 error code pain - Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"
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Old 03-07-2014
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CEL after a few miles can't be O2 sensors, they are not hot enough yet, so are "off-line", assuming engine was cold started.

EGR system is only used when engine is warmed up and under load, so accelerating hard or going up hill.
And it would take a few times before computer turned on the CEL.


EVAP system is a common issue when vacuum lines get older, and it is considered an 'emissions' system so CEL comes on pretty quick.
Make sure gas cap is tight and there are no leaks in the filler or vent tube on the gas tank.
EVAP system applies a vacuum to the fuel tank when engine is started to prevent gas fumes from escaping, and then that vacuum stays in tank after engine is shut off.
Most notice a "woshing" sound when opening the gas tank to fill it, that means tank has no air leaks, if you don't notice the "wosh" then you could have an EVAP system issue.


Does the idle stay higher than normal?
700RPMs is normal warm engine idle.
If it does stay higher then ECT sensor could be the issue, it is easy to test.

Is the engine temp running at normal level after 10 minutes, needle below 1/2 above 1/3?

Here is a site that explains the flashes and pauses you should see between "codes"
EEC IV Self Test – Ford Fuel Injection and EEC IV Electronic Engine Control – EEC 4 OBD Trouble Codes –

So your 3273271327327 most likely comes as a fast/hard code
32 73 27
1 = separator pulse from fast to regular pulse

32 73 27 regular history code

32 with engine off = EVR – EVP signal is/was low – EVR
This has to do with EGR valve's Control, not the valve, follow the vacuum line from the EGR valve to the Control

73 with engine off = Rerun test, if 73 is still coming out replace TPS
The TPS(throttle position sensor) can be tested with a volt meter, but I would check the connector first, clean and dry inside.
73 is a bit off because you report normal driving.

27 with engine off = vehicle speed sensor issue(VSS)
This make no sense because the '94 used mechanical speedo cable, but could be related to rear ABS brakes.


Since 27 makes no sense and 73 is marginal, code could be
327 327
1 = separator
327 327

If you test them again watch the break between pulses

327 is pretty much the same as 32
32 with engine off = EVR – EVP signal is/was low – EVR
This has to do with EGR valve's Control, not the valve, follow the vacuum line from the EGR valve to the Control the computer uses

And since this code is set(CEL comes on) within a few minutes of starting and driving I would suspect Control is bad or it's wiring is

Last edited by RonD; 03-08-2014 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 03-08-2014
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Thanks so much for the two later post. So 327 is a valid code associated with the EGR or associated parts. From reading through both post it looks like a need to try the sensor and stay away from the Duralast brand. I will let you know how this comes out. The second link was surely a long drawn out painful process but seems to have neted out to the sensor.

Out of curiosity, I wonder what the "1" flash means in the sequence of 327, 327, 1, 327, 327. There is an obvious longer pause before the "1" flash and all the other flashes. Since the 327, 327 repeats after that, I wonder if that only means it is repeating. But it really doesn't matter if the sensor fixes the issue.
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Old 03-08-2014
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I didn't see Ron Dean's post before replying. You answered the question of the single pluse, a seperator and also leaned toward the sensor.
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Old 03-08-2014
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Thanks to all who found links and made suggestions. The problem was solved by installilng a new EGR position feedback sensor which was what the last two post pointed to. After installing I drove over 10 miles and no CEL. I actually had a good feeling it was going to work when I removed the old metal unit. While taking off one of the vaccum hoses, the metal nipple just crumbled. I could see the opening was clogged both in the hose and inside the sensor. That was a good sign.

Some side issues that others who may see this might be interested in. Avoiding Durlast I looked on the Advance Auto site for the part, which they showed 2, one at $49 and one at $69. Didn't see the difference but since my local store had only the $69 part I went there. When the clerk pulled it up on the computer, it was clear from the discreption, one had a D shaped connector and the other an oval. Since they only had the oval, I took it. Also both are advertised as "exact fit" for the vehicle. Well you can guess, when I got home took off the old metal one and looked at the connector, it looked oval to me. It mounted perfectly but the connector did not fit. While the inside of the connector was oval, the shell around the contacts were different. This was where the "oval" and "D" shapes varied. Found the only store around that had the other, 20 miles away. Turns out that store is the warehouse for all the others in the area. When I tried to install the new $49 part, the screws would not go through the eyelet holes which had a brass eyelet in one side, and a sloted (for adjustment) brass eyelet in the other side. Both were molded into the plastic frame of the sensor. Thought it would be simple to drill them out to a larger diameter but it wasn't. The round eyelet would turn in the plastic frame which made it very difficult to drill out. The drill just snatched the slotted eyelet right out of the plastic. After some more drilling and epoxy I got it back together and mounted it. That version is obviously not "an exact fit" for the vehicle. Also the nipples for attaching the vaccum hoses were different between the two units, one smaller and easier to attach. My unit had larger and shorter nipples and I had to work for several minutes to get the hoses over them. But all's well that ends well. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 03-08-2014
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Thanks for the update
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Old 03-09-2014
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Cool, glad you got it.
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