Ok so she starts and runs but acts like she is missing time. I went and re-did the coil pack (13th time) and still runs like Tyson is beating the hell out of it.

Is there anything I should focus on as to why this thing runs rough? Wires? Sensors? I just got all of the gas out of the truck and am running some fuel line and engine cleaner through it with good gas and some sea foam - figured that would get most of the contaminates out. But now need to focus on some things - computer seems to be OK but there is something electrical that isn't playing nice.

 

I am thinking of taking the wiring harness out on the engine side and seeing if that scorched harness caused more damage than can be seen. Its the only thing left.

 

Well, here's the latest update.

Took the heads off and found a metal clip in the intake valve of number three. Marred the heck out of the valve so I pulled a valve out of one of the heads I had sitting there, cleaned it up, honed it and put it in and started putting it back together. I can tell when my kid comes and kicks a box because half the bults are gone and I have to hit the bone yard to go and get more bolts.

I started it and she comes up, but has a killer knock - don't know where that came from - only think it might be a push rod not inserted propertly or did not torque down the valve rocker enough or too much. I can take the valve covers off with no problem and fumble with them without too much of a problem.

I still plan on doing a "Why don't this effing thing start." because this had all of the probems.

 

Here's the vid

 

So I was looking around for Fusable Links for this truck and can't find them - does it have Fusable Links at all or are they all down near the starter selenoid?

 

If its a 2000 Ranger then no, no fusible links

It has a Mega Fuse on the outside of engine fuse box, that's for alternator
Ford did use Fusible links for alternator's B+ wire, off and on over the years, but if you see a Mega Fuse then no fusible links
1995-1997 use alternator fusible links
1998-2000 Mega Fuse
2001-2011 fusible links again

In the 1980's Ford did use fusible links instead of fuses in engine fuse box for several devices, not just alternators
But in the 1990s just alternators used them and Rangers had the larger engine fuse box

 

Thanks Ron. Found the problem now that is fixed. Fuse was not plugged in the right spot.

Now I have gas, I have spark, and now when turning it over it spits and sputters but won't start. I am checking that MAF in a few since I started it without the box on.

Anything else I should try before 100 degrees today melts me?

 

I had to take the fuel injectors out and fix them. They were leaking so now that is fixed too.

 

Good stuff

I guess let us know if its still not starting and running correctly

 

Well, I figured out the not starting piece as well. It would seem in the stepside beds, they placed the drainage tube for the bed right over top of the fuel pump. Which if the gaskets in the fuel pump are not sealed, allows the bed to drain right into the tank. What a pain in the rear.

 

Thats an odd one, didn't know any beds had drain holes just rusted spots and holes, lol

 

Well thanks Ron you helped get it to here.

 

Ok - can not find an EVTM - does anyone know what wires go to what on that Flex Fuel Comparitor?

It goes into the harness, and after that, it changes color on the wires - and I have no idea if what I am going to do is going to fix it or cause and explosion.

Also, I think I might have it crossed with the Fuel Pressure Sensor - cause they keep popping up at the same time.

 

Found this, there may be others on ebay, this was the first one that popped up

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28427080267...IAAOSwYW9ghJce

 

Well, before I put an offer on it I went to go see a friend at the local auto parts store - and he printed out this here.

 

So she was running ok and now she runs like pooh. No power. P0176 thrown with a new comparator in it. Runs a bit better if I take it out (unplugged) but backfires and throws the same code. Gets power and since I don't have an o scope hard to see if it is sending the right values to ecm.
Got the wiring diagram and it shows this, but not sure if wired right up front.

 

New fuel pump had the fuel pressure sensor in it, and swapped them. Still no joy

 

1983 to 2011 Rangers never had fuel pressure sensor

There is an EVAP air pressure sensor in the gas tank

There is a Fuel Type sensor in the frame rail by fuel filter

You can just unplug either one of these if you think its an issue

You would get codes, but no driveability issues unless running E85 fuel, it defaults to gas only

If you haven't then check firing order on Coil Pack, FOUR TIMES
Follow each wire from its cylinder to coil pack

Coil pack has MATCHED cylinder pairs
2 and 6 are ALWAYS on the center connections
Then 1/5 at one end and 3/4 at the other end

so can be
3 4
2 6
1 5
or
1 2 3
5 6 4

depends on how its mounted in the engine bay
The 5 6 4 side is EASILY mis-wired

But 1 2 3 can be goofed up as well

Popping and back fires can be "bad gas", water in the gas tank is "bad gas"

 

So on top of the ignition block it had the diagram of where to plug in the specific cylinder. So I checked it six times, goofed it up on purpose, then plugged them back in to the spots that it says they go in and she still spits sputters, pukes. I fixed the leak with the fuel pump being inundated with water and did a flow test with a five gallon bucket of water and there was no infiltration.

I then changed the fuel filter, blew out the lines with the rail unplugged leaned the on rail regulator, emptied and vaccuumed out the tank, wiped it down with a Chammy (they burn quite brightly), and then put 5 gallons of gas back in, and then jumpered the fuse block until I saw good gas come out of the rail. I put a bottle of seafoam in it to ensure it was getting the rest of the water the heave ho. I put another five gallons in it - checked it again.

Is there a possibility that on this year model that there is a different wiring setup even if the ignition block shows 1-2-3-4-6-5?

The ignitor coil connetor to the ECM is toward the firewall. 1 is at front left, 3 is in the back left. 5 is up front right, 4 is if in the back right. Of course 2 and 6 are in the middle.

 

Firing order is set by the Cam being used and that was never changed from 1986 to 2008 on the 3.0l Vulcan engines
Firing order
1 4 2 5 3 6

To find the Matched pairs in any engine you put 1 half of firing order below the other half
1 4 2
5 3 6

So as Matched pairs 1/5 are BOTH at TDC at the same time, 3/4 are at TDC 120deg later, and 2/6 120degs after that
This balances the rotational mass when engine is running
Most V6 engines use the same match pairs, 4.0l uses it, 2.9l used it, 2.8l used it
The cam opens and closes the valves so decides which cylinder is firing

Coil pack reflects these Match Pairs, although not the order , that's decided by spark module and wires on the coil packs
Center coil in the pack is always 2/6
The end pairs can be either 3/4 or 1/5 , 1/5 or 3/4
The markings on the coil pack may be correct or NOT, the ends can be reversed, this has to do with how the 4 wires are connected to the coil pack, they are what cause each coil spark at the right time

You can try the ends both ways, wrong way will barely run
Never seen a center coil miswired but 3rd party coil packs are a roll of the dice

 

Ok - so here's the final post on this one.

The truck bed dumped water into the gas tank, and when it went through the fuel system it corrupted the Fuel Comparitor, and clogged all of the fuel injectors.
So replacing all of the fuel injectors with a Ford Taurus Vulcan Fuel Injectors solved the problems, new fuel filters and flushing the lines fixed the entire thing.

Water in a fuel system causes it not to start. No Injector Pulse, No Fuel, and No Air causes it to not start at all.

This ends this thread. Whew!

 

Wow. What an odyssey! Congratz on the fix!

 

Wow, what a crazy time that was. you had me going. Good Show!!