Engine cranks over, starts, cuts off after 5-10 minutes. 1. Fire at plugs, got fuel at plugs, spark at coil, compression good, 36 psi fuel pressure, will not crank until it cool down( hour or so) 1993 ford ranger 3.0 4x4, does not smoke once it cranks again, idle is not smooth, suggestions?

 

1993 3.0l Ranger will have a TFI spark module on the rad support by battery

Classic symptom of a failing TFI module is no spark after it gets hot, then works again after it cools off, so...................I would change the TFI module om speculation since they will test OK cold, so testing wouldn't work

It looks like this: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...emote_tfi1.jpg

But thats not where its mounted in a Ranger

You pull out the TFI Module and remount new one to the heat sink(fins)
Modules look like this: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...on-gif.250293/

Top one is the one you want

 

Thanks, there is fire at the plugs when it cuts off, leave it setting and come back to it and it starts back up, itis as if it floods out, stops running and onceplugs dry ,it starts back and repeats it self. Replaced fuel regulator already, Help needed. Retired ford mech. Caked it out and he is dunmbfounded also. Got spark, got gas, but it will not run. Somebody out there ,,help is needed.

 

So if you do the 50/50 test after engine shuts off it will restart, for a moment?
If not then no spark

If you think engine is flooded then press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down all the way
Then try to start
With key on/engine off, and gas pedal down all the way computer will turn off fuel injectors, to "clear flooded engine", this is built into all fuel injection computers
So you can crank engine to dry it out for restart

 

5050 test completed, flood test completed, will start but not every time, ck Spark at plugs, got spark and fuel, still will not stay running, timing has been verified also, Ron , what else would keep this veh from running ? Your help is appreciated very much

 

Will start, explain?

Does it start by adding fuel manually, 50/50?

Or does it start with gas pedal to the floor?

"Spark at the plugs" doesn't help at all, spark has to be at the right time to work, which is the point of the 50/50 test, it tells you if spark timing is correct


Just FYI, spark testers were never good to use, or pulling a spark plug and grounding it to see if it sparked, until AFTER you did a 50/50 test and got a no start
Then you can test if spark is there or not, if you have good spark and still a no start 50/50 then spark timing is the issue