Wont start when hot
Wont start when hot
89. 2.9. Replaced cap, rotor, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, sender, fuel filter, plugs, wires, ICM, radiator. Truck starts up beautifully when cold, runs like dream. Drove 60 miles this morning, stopped for gas. The bi*** won't start. Tried pulling the coolant temp sensor wire, thinking it was faulty. Nothing.
Has spark, has fuel, pump runs when I turn the key. Cranked and cranked and nothing.Is it the computer? Something is telling it that's it hot and doesn't need to start.
Banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what the issue is. This is my driver so I need it to be reliable to start if I have to run errands.
Has spark, has fuel, pump runs when I turn the key. Cranked and cranked and nothing.Is it the computer? Something is telling it that's it hot and doesn't need to start.
Banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what the issue is. This is my driver so I need it to be reliable to start if I have to run errands.
There is nothing in the computer that prevents starting if engine is over heated
This was a fairly common complaint with an older TFI module, but you said you replaced it(ICM?)
Coils can become heat sensitive.
What happens if you do the 50/50 test?
50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine, manually, then try to start it
If it starts and then dies, fuel delivery is the problem
If it doesn't start then spark is the problem
50/50 instant results
You can test for spark and test for fuel pressure , but that doesn't mean spark is at the right time or fuel is in the cylinder in the right mix
Always do the 50/50 test FIRST, if you have a crank but no start
This was a fairly common complaint with an older TFI module, but you said you replaced it(ICM?)
Coils can become heat sensitive.
What happens if you do the 50/50 test?
50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine, manually, then try to start it
If it starts and then dies, fuel delivery is the problem
If it doesn't start then spark is the problem
50/50 instant results
You can test for spark and test for fuel pressure , but that doesn't mean spark is at the right time or fuel is in the cylinder in the right mix
Always do the 50/50 test FIRST, if you have a crank but no start
New TFI just last week along with cap and rotor. It's not over heated it's just warm from running. Has to sit for hours before it'll start again. Ended up sitting at the gas station for 2 hours. Still wouldn't start. Being a girl I got asked for help a lot but theres nothing anyone could do. Ha. It starts easily on the mornings/cold. Has fuel and spark.
I meant to imply that the temp sensor can't cause a no start.
Do the 50/50 test when it happens again, get a can of Quick Start, ether in a spray can, open air cleaner pull out filter and spray some into the engine then try to start it
You can use PCV hose or brake booster hose as well
Also when it happens again, press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down, now try to start engine, if should NOT start, or even fire, warm or cold, with gas pedal to the floor
This is called Clear Flooded Engine Mode
All fuel injection computers have this
When gas pedal is down to the floor(WOT), throttle position sensor(TPS) sends 4.5volts to computer, if RPMs are 0 the computer enters Clear Flooded engine, it turns OFF the fuel injectors, spark is still on
So when you crank the engine no fuel is being added and throttle is wide open so any fuel(flooded engine) will be evaporated fairly quickly.
This a good test for leaking injectors
Try this when engine is working first, if throttle cable is stretched you won't get WOT so engine would start, Google: Ranger throttle cable mod to fix stretched cable, easy fix
I use Clear Flooded engine every morning on my high mile 4.0l
I crank it for 10-15 seconds then release gas pedal for startup to get oil pumped thru the engine before it starts
You don't have to stop cranking the engine, as soon as gas pedal is release computer goes back to "normal" operation
Do the 50/50 test when it happens again, get a can of Quick Start, ether in a spray can, open air cleaner pull out filter and spray some into the engine then try to start it
You can use PCV hose or brake booster hose as well
Also when it happens again, press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down, now try to start engine, if should NOT start, or even fire, warm or cold, with gas pedal to the floor
This is called Clear Flooded Engine Mode
All fuel injection computers have this
When gas pedal is down to the floor(WOT), throttle position sensor(TPS) sends 4.5volts to computer, if RPMs are 0 the computer enters Clear Flooded engine, it turns OFF the fuel injectors, spark is still on
So when you crank the engine no fuel is being added and throttle is wide open so any fuel(flooded engine) will be evaporated fairly quickly.
This a good test for leaking injectors
Try this when engine is working first, if throttle cable is stretched you won't get WOT so engine would start, Google: Ranger throttle cable mod to fix stretched cable, easy fix
I use Clear Flooded engine every morning on my high mile 4.0l
I crank it for 10-15 seconds then release gas pedal for startup to get oil pumped thru the engine before it starts
You don't have to stop cranking the engine, as soon as gas pedal is release computer goes back to "normal" operation
Well.....I had to leave the truck at the gas station. I foolishly assumed that after sitting for several hours it would start. But now it's not starting at all. I have in fact done the clear flooded engine method as well as a starter fluid. So now what. Seems like something besides just heat issue. Bummer
Well.....I had to leave the truck at the gas station. I foolishly assumed that after sitting for several hours it would start. But now it's not starting at all. I have in fact done the clear flooded engine method as well as a starter fluid. So now what. Seems like something besides just heat issue. Bummer
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