I have 185,000 on my Ranger, and am amazed it has held up like it has. I have replaced control arms, sway bar ends and bushings, shocks are good, and brakes done. I'm using the Hanes to tune up the engine, expect to replace plugs, wires, pcv, fuel filter, fluids and filters. I just saw reference to timing chain tensioners (2?). It makes no noise, rattles, etc but will replace if it needs it. Am I missing anything ?

 

V6~4.0L~SOHC Ranger 2002 per this thread title or 2004 per your profile?
Renew two OilPressurized TimingTensioners if Original\>75kMiles; do this at least every 100kMiles. Click for more info.
Renew ThermoStatHousing if Plastic with Aluminum version. Click for more info.
Renew ThermoStat+Coolant if >33kMiles. Click for more info.
Renew MechanicalFan+FanClutch+CoolantPump if >150kMiles. Click for more info.
Renew RadiatorHoses+HeaterHoses+Clamps if >100kMiles.
Renew HeaterControlValve if >100kMiles; consider replacing Plastic Valve with Metal version. Click for more info.
Renew Radiator if >100kMiles; consider replacing PlasticTanked 1Core\2Core with AllAluminum 3Core\4Core. Click for more info.
Renew RadiatorCap if >33kMiles with a 16psiRated Cap.
Renew VacHoses if >150kMiles.
Renew 5r55eTransmission MerconV+Filter+PanGasket if >33kMiles; consider new Pan+DrainBung+FumotoDrainValve; adjust two Bands while there.
Renew 1354TransferCase MerconLV if >33kMiles; exercise the notorious 4WDTransferMotor+ControlModule at least once a month. Click for more info.
Renew RearDiff+ForeDiff GearOil if >33kMiles; AmsOil#SAE250\75w140\75w90.FullSyn recommended; replace RearGasket; retorq ForeGasket. Click for more info.
Remove ABS SpeedSensors on Axles\Hubs, push in some fresh grease.
Remove+Clean DashCenterPanel+InstrumentCluster every 100kMiles; renew 161\194 & 906\912 Bulbs, AVOID LEDs; lube Speed+OdoMeter. Click for more info.
Inspect+Lube SteeringColumn; Tighten Mounts; Inspect+Clean+Lube the notorious ODButton & double insulate the ODButtonCable. Click for more info.

 

Welcome to the forum

Yes, the 4.0l SOHC has 2 longer timing chains, its a good idea to replace the tensioners for these every 100k miles

FYI, if you hear a "rattle" damage is done, timing chain Guide is broken, so there is no warning signs a long chain tensioner is failing, which is why its a good idea to replace them every 100k miles
And engine needs to be pulled out to replace damaged rear timing chain guides, which is even more of a reason to make sure tensioners stay working as they should

 

I replaced my hydraulic tensioners at 100K miles and again at 250K miles when I did the cam timing chain system rebuild. The timing chain guides were not broken but I felt I should to the rebuild because I do a lot of traveling in the wilderness and did not want to get stranded there.

The only thing I did find broken was the mechanical tensioner for the main drive chain that is directly driven by the crankshaft. It was totally broken off and had been for a while. I got no indication of anything being wrong. I sure was happy that I decided to go to the trouble of pulling the engine to do this work because if that chain jumped a tooth of two I could have been in some serious trouble when out in the middle of nowhere.

The mechanical tensioner is not a common failure issue, but should be able to be replaced without pulling the engine. I do recommend replacing the hydraulic timing chain tensioners if it has never been done. The right side one is not difficult to do, but it needs to be done through the wheel well. With the left side one, you can pretty much count on removing the intake manifold. There are other ways to get to it but I think they are more problematic.

 

Ford V6~4.0L~SOHC JackChain LeafSpring TimingTensioner
FordMotorCraft# yL2z-6L266-aa
OriginalDesign vs RevisedDesign

 

Re the 2nd and 3rd pictures: What is the chain on the lower left of both pictures?

Is that the "jack shaft" which powers the right bank timing cassette?

 

Good question; that's the BalancerShaftChain.
JackShaft is larger UpperCenter Sprocket; CrankShaft is LowerCenter Sprocket.
Pre2002 (unsure of exact cutoff date), V6~4.0L~SOHC Cologne builds included Balancer for 4WD drive vehicles.
Ford found it did not make any difference & discontinued Balancer; another "Rube Goldberg" design. Still have it on my 2001;
should've removed TimingCover & disconnected it when CoolantPump was replaced; was in too much hurry.
May slightly increase available HP.

 

Mine did not have the balancer shaft. I don't know if that is true of all 2002 4.0 SOHC engines. I bought all the stuff to rebuild it too, but ended up send those parts back.

I also ended up using my original crankshaft sprocket because the one they sent me had the wrong offset. I have heard this is often a problem. I never did find out what the correct crankshaft sprocket part number is for my engine.

 

The earlier 4.0l SOHC had balancer shafts in 4x4s because of Live Axle, always locked front hubs, started that in Explorer 4.0l SOHC 4WD in 1998
Ford engineers thought at higher speeds, above 60MPH, the spinning front driveshaft and the spinning crankshaft could generate a vibration

This wasn't the case so balancer shaft was dropped, and from what I have read you can swap in a balancer shaft engine to a 2WD or a non-balancer shaft engine to a 4x4 with no issues, vibration or otherwise

 

I can feel a light vibration starting around 75 mph and it gets worse above that. I have driven without the front driveshaft and it is a smooth as can be. Maybe there is something to that concern. I think Ford just decided it was not bad enough to go to the expense of adding the balance shaft. I am just very sensitive to things like that.

 

That's an interesting observation & bit of information.

 

I would test that further by shifting into Neutral, so engine RPMs dropped but speed stayed above 75MPH for a short time, that would tell you if it was related to balancer shaft needed or not needed

 

Apologies for the delay Dillard, it's been a struggle. I have done about half of your suggests, and truck is running fine, finally,
but apprciate them all, to keep an eye on.

 

I think i've got got a grip on the timing chains, replaced the two tensioners (both seemed good) and it made a hellovafuss untill the new ones losded.

 

My '05 SOHC would make a, "more oil, please" noise upon startup. I figured it wasn't broken guides as the noise wasn't entirely unfamiliar.
I've taken to "clear wet engine cranking" to build oil pressure and now it starts with a solid purr.

At freezing it takes 8 seconds of cranking for the oil light to go out. Does that sound good?
With the throttle wide open the engine cranks real fast.

 

8sec sounds about right.
ColdStartRoutine here is GasPedal to the floor, crank until OilPressureNeedle bounces slightly off zero, then stop.
Release GasPedal, Crank & Start.

 

I just had a Jaspser rebuilt 4l SOHC engine replaced in my 2005 4x4 edge ranger. I now observe a vibration when holding steady at 60-62 mph and on slight deceleration from 65mph to 58mph. It is a resonant frequency type of symptom. I never feel it under load, And I can make it stop instantly by just touching the throttle. My original engine had the counter balance shaft. I suspect that the replacement engine does not. Still investigating. It is just enough of a nuisance that I want it corrected.

I am going to install new injectors shortly and I am hoping that may be the problem. I notice that fuel pressure drops overnight and requires me to turn the key and wait a few seconds to pressurize the system before turning over the engine.

Any ideas would be most helpful.

T

 

Interesting info.
Easiet way to confirm if V6~4.0L~SOHC Engine has BalanceShaft is to drop OilPan;
if present, BalanceShaft is visible up thru the Girdle, along with the OilPump.
Been considering cutting BalancerChain off, next time front cover is off my engine block,
so very interested in this. Keep us updated.

 

Well, It has been a very long time, and I've tried a lot of things.... AND I FINALLY HAVE FIXED THE VIBRATION! Along the way I discovered the very best way to renew/clean injectors without removing them. Royal Purple Max-Clean is the best injector cleaner by far!. It cleaned my injectors quickly and unstuck a leaky one. I was losing fuel pressure when the truck was off causing me to need to pause to allow pressure to build before attempting to start the engine after it sat for several hours or overnight. Max-Clean corrected the problem! Much smoother engine and no more waiting on the first start in the morning. One piece of advice - Follow the directions!

Now on to the fix for the vibration on deceleration between 62-to 58 mph. I replaced the driveshaft with a new Dorman Driveshaft. No more vibration at any speed or under any condition. I had the engine and transmission replaced with a Jasper products. The shop that did the work told me the driveshaft was fine. I specifically asked them to check. After trying everything else and failing to correct the problem, I was left with this option. It also quieted the truck. U--joints did not have play, but moved easily. The driveshaft did have two black scrapes a foot long... I suspect from the engine/trannie transplant.

Anyway, replacing the driveshaft corrected the problem! Problem Solved. Issue closed. I got my truck back!

- Tony

 

One cold morning the U-joints of an old Nova I had ('76/250 auto @ 20 years old) squeaked.
There's a shaft shop near me.
Two U-joints and a shaft balance gave me smoothness I had never experienced.
I feel your joy.