Hello, every one im in need of some serious help. i own a 2000 ford ranger xlt 4.0 4x4 about a month in half ago it quit starting so my brother and i went thru it and replaced a lot of parts on the truck. I have owned the truck for 6 months now and in them 6 months i have replaced the following parts most with in the last month fuel pump, fuel filter x2 iac, battery, alternator, ignition coil, coolent temp sensor, crank pos sensor, mass air flow sensor. any one have any other ideas. i have spark fuel pump works as it is suppose to and i have good pressure at the Schrader valve. i had it running about 2 weeks ago ran for a week now its not starting again just cranks any advice will be greatly appreciated

Thank you in advance

 

Welcome to the forum

Do 50/50 test first, always, on any engine, 1 cylinder or V12, gas or diesel, carb or fuel injection
Spray fuel into the intake, i.e. quick start(ether) or gasoline
Then crank engine over
If it starts up, runs then dies, spark and spark TIMING is OK, but fuel delivery is the problem
If it doesn't start then spark or spark TIMING is the problem to address, could also be compression issue
50/50 instant results no wasting time or money

Problem with "new" parts is that they are not tested, so don't count on them "working", unless they are Motorcraft(Ford) parts which are tested, but can be ridiculously expensive, lol
So don't assume a "new part" is working


If engine starts on 50/50 test and dies then, ASSUMING you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail, unplug the TPS(throttle position sensor), has a 3 wire plug, its on upper intake
TPS can disable Fuel Injectors if its shorted out, then try to start


If engine doesn't start on 50/50 test then don't add fuel but crank the engine over a few times
Pull out 1 or 2 spark plugs and check the tips
Should be covered in fuel, use a match to light the tip to see if its GOOD Fuel
Wasted more than a few minutes on someones gas tank full of water, lol

If spark plugs are dry and no start with 50/50 test then computer is not starting spark or fuel
WATCH the CEL(check engine light), it should come ON with key on, it means computer is Booting up
CEL should go OFF when starter motor is cranking the engine over
CEL going off when cranking means computer IS getting a good timing pulse from the Crank sensor
If CEL stays on then engine will never start because computer doesn't even know you want to start it, its waiting for a timing pulse from crank sensor

Yes, new crank sensor, but what brand
The crank sensor "reads" a tone wheel behind the crank pulley, looks like a gear
Each time a "tooth" of the wheel passes by the crank sensor it will generate an AC Voltage pulse, approx. .5-1.0vAC at cranking speed, 200rpm
There is a missing tooth on the wheel, that gap happens when #1 piston is at TDC, thats how the computer TIMES spark and injectors

 

During the week it ran (about 2 weeks ago) were you driving it every day and for any distance and/or with many start-ups and shut-downs?
What was the last part you replaced 2 weeks ago (the one that got you going)?
"Totally" clogged cat?

 

not a clogged cat there is not cat on the truck also last time i had it running i blew out the fuel filter and it fired right up since then i have replaced the fuel filter and still nothing

 

already narrowed it down to a fuel problem just dont know exactly where the problem is

 

I had the same issue about 6 months ago and it turned out to be the PCM! My truck was running fine and then one day it would just crank but not start. I did the 50/50 test by spraying starting fluid in the intake and it ran for a second. That told me the injectors were not firing. My mechanic checked it out and tested the output from the PCM to the injectors and it was dead. No outputs at all! Pray it's not the PCM because they are expensive and it's a pain in the *** to get it programmed for your specific vehicle!

 

I have the same problem with a slight variation. My engine cranks and starts but dies after a few seconds. Here's a possible cause: In a YouTube video I learned to how to check the inertia switch. This switch is designed to shut off fuel if the truck is in an accident or hits a very hard bump. Some of the early switches were defective and would go off killing the engine.

The switch is located in the cab under the carpet on passenger side. Pull back the carpet on the very top right corner under the glove box and you'll see the switch. If a red plastic tab is showing the switch is armed and "on". (good). If there is NO red plastic tab showing then it has tripped and shut off your fuel pump. To reset the switch you can feel for the switch plunger on top and it will have popped up even with the top of the round plastic hole on top. Push down on cylinder and you'll feel the switch go down and reset with a click also showing the red plastic tab locked into place and visible. Apparently Ford had issues with this switch and it's a fairly well know issue according to the YouTube video I watched on it. Also: Even it it has not tripped try resetting it anyway. Maybe the contacts have become dirty. Yah never know...

As for me? Mine cranks and starts but dies. I've got to post my problem here too. Mine starts, runs for 5 seconds and turns off just like I turned the key off. I can keep it running by vigorously pumping the throttle but letting it fall back to idle and it dies... It was running perfectly, when to the supermarket. Came out...and wouldn't start. :-( Mines a 1999 XLT 4.0L V6 crew cab 4x4.

Good luck with yours.

 

I have a 1999 Ford XLT 4.0 as well and I’m have pretty much the same issue as you guys mine starts and runs but you Gotta keep the RPMs up about 1000 otherwise it drops down to about 500 and dies whether it’s parked or driving I’ve used a homemade smoke machine to look for vacuum leaks no luck before replacing the mass air flow sensor I unplugged in and ran good for 4 days figure that was my issue replaced it and 1 day later back to the same issue
Work done
changed plugs and plug wires
change the mass airflow sensor
change the intake air temp sensor
Change the fuel filter and air filter
Change the idler control valve
Cleaned up the throttlebody
Replace the PCV valve
Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

The computer and IAC Valve set the idle RPMs based on Coolant Temp, from ECT sensor

Generally a vacuum leak causes high idle, not low or stalling

Unplug and remove IAC Valve
Turn on key<<<this sends voltage to IAC Valve
Look inside housing at the valve
Plug in the 2 wire connector, valve should move open, only moves 3/8" but will move
Unplug the wires and it should move closed
Repeat until you are satisfied it IS or IS NOT moving

If its not moving use a volt meter on the 2 wires, with key on you should see 10-12volts
Red wire should have battery volts
Other wire goes to computer, its the ground the computer uses to raise and lower voltage to open and close IAC Valve to set idle
Computer with IAC Valve can set idle RPMs +/-4rpms, it's a VERY accurate system

You can only use Motorcraft or Hitachi IAC Valves, any other brand will not work correctly

ECT sensor is a 5volt 2 wire sensor that tells computer when to set CHOKE and when to take choke off, also sets idle RPMs based on coolant temp
When coolant/engine is under 140degF it needs to be Choked, rich fuel mix and HIGH idle
So on cold start you should ALWAYS have a high idle, period, this means computer, ECT and IAC Valve are all working
Idle will start to go down as engine temp goes up
Above 140degF it should be down to about 800rpms with automatic, 700 for manual trans

 

I think your new MAF sensor went bad on you. I've had to go through two of them before my last one fixed the problem. I think a lot of these MAF's come from China and are not really tested well before released to the market. My last MAF (that is installed and working) I bought locally so if it dies I can take it back for another one. So far so good. My Ranger is running like a watch. (knock on wood). Get another MAF.... I know the frustration. Good luck.