Specs on cam Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51402000 - Trick Flow® Track Max® Hydraulic Roller Camshafts for Ford 5.0L - Overview - SummitRacing.com So i can still run the coil pack with the trick flow heads and upper and lower intake then?

 

Yes, you can still run the coil packs with this setup. You might have to modify the bracket slightly, but I highly doubt it. It should bolt right on. That cam may require tuning. The only way to find out for sure is to put it in and try it. Since it is a newer MAF system, it should learn and take to the cam just fine. But its not guaranteed. All I can really say is get it and try it. If it runs bad, a minor tune will fix it.

 

by tune you mean a chip or somehting like that or re tune the ecm
Im looking at these headers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BBK-15290/ any thoughts?
The stock 96 expo heads are the gt-40's correct? So they have the straight or angled plugs?

 

Not bad for $550 it started right up to it has 13000 miles so thats not to bad i may start the swap around the end of september after our dunes trip 24-27 so until then i gotta search alot does anyone know exactly the wires that will have to be repinned? Im geussing no so ill probably figure it out lol.
But im hoping to pull the motor this sunday then more pics.

 

The 96 GT-40s have the same plug angle as any generic 5.0/302. It's the 97 1/4 and up Ex 5.0 that has the GT-40P heads with the unique angle.

Quick check: 3 ridges in the end of the head casting = GT40; 4 ridges = GT40P.

 

sweet so regular stang headers will work.

 

Sure, assuming that they clear everything else in the engine bay. Lucklily for you, the 97-back bay is a little more open than the 98+. There are aftermarket conversion headers made especially for 97-back 5.0 Ranger swaps.

 

Ya i think i will be able to use the stang headers if not bust out the torch lol
I think ill be ordering these parts sometime soon
L&L oil relocation kit http://www.landlproducts.com/details...=0&ItemID=1024
Summit fuel cell http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-293220/
BBK equal length shortys http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BBK-15290/
B&M ratchet shifter http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BM...0/?image=large
Some kind of intake
I want to make my own motor mounts if i can save some money.
What else can you guys think off that ill need

 

Why run those headers? Im 99% sure they won't clear. I think somebody on RPS tried to use those same ones and they simply would not wok, too many things in the way like the frame and steering shaft. Just get the Ranger swap headers so that you KNOW they will work lol. They aren't really any more expensive than those. But hey, maybe you should try them so if they work I can get the ones designed for the P heads instead of spending $700 on torque monsters! Lol.

Also, stay away from the fuel cell. You will have a hard time adapting your evap system to work with it.

 

I have to get rid off my stock tank to clear the transfer case with it being reg cab short bed and the drive train being longer. Unless the drive train is the same length as the stock drive train but ive heard its about a foot longer all together?
And im just going to machine an adapter to put my stock sending unit in the cell like this

 

I may try these also BBK Performance 15250 - BBK Shorty Headers - Overview - SummitRacing.com my buddy has a set and would probably let me try them first

 

If you run the stock Ranger BW1354 case behind the Ex 5.0 and 4R70W using the correct Advance Adapters kit, the Ranger t-case will be in the same place as stock.

If you do something like change to a full size t-case or use a longer transmission, it will lengthen it.

 

You could also run a BII or E-150 gas tank that would fit where the spare tire originally was if you don't want to go with a full fuel cell. Also you asked a long time ago, but i'm running L&L headers on my truck.

 

so there l&l swap headers? I might just go with the swap headers for simplicity.

 

I got my transfer case today its a manual shift BW-1356 out off a 87 f-150 manual I6 it has the vss in the case so thats also a plus and i got the front and rear shafts all for $75 bucks. Not to bad i dont think.

Well all cylinders have between 115 PSI and 145PSI so thats pretty close ran into a problem though i snapped off a plug in the head but i think ill be able to use an easy out hopefully or ill have to take it to a machine shop.
Any advice to remove broken plugs?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BM...6/?image=large Will i need this bracket for the ratchet shifter its for a AOD is the AOD the same as the 4R70W's? Will that bracket work for the trans i have?

 

So i got both front shafts and the t-case out off the sploder tonight motor will be out sunday hopefully.
Heres my 5.0 badge my brother painted

 

You do need the AOD bracket.

 

Badge looks good. Are you going to run the AOD trans? I had horrible luck with the AOD in my truck. I blew up more than I care to remember, and your planning more HP than I have.

 

No, im running the 4R70W in my truck but i am going with the hurst ratchet shifter so i was wondering if i would need the AOD bracket also for the cable to attach to the trans.

 

So i will be able to bolt the AOD bracket on the 4R70W then without any modification?

 

Sweet! Didn't know you were doing this. Gonna be awesome.

Bob is the man!

 

ya lets just hope i can get it running lol
Ya BOB knows his stuff for sure

 

Motor is out.



When i get my exhaust made do i have to keep the cats or can i just put the 02 sensors back in without the cats?
If i dont run the cats will it throw codes? What will it do if i dont keep the cats?

 

When i put the L&L oil filter relocation on do i have to keep the oil cooler that is right before the filter? I can just take it off and run a regular coolant hose and then bolt the oil filter straight to the relocation kit right?

 

come on man get this done already