Well, he's auto and staying that way, so we should be fine on that. Do you remember what wires were different?

 

Ill try to look tomorrow all my books are in the barn.

 

The truck is at the exhaust shop now the guy said hed bend do it for $100 that will be 2.5" y pipes and true duals he will hang everything and weld in the o2 bungs and emissions sensors. Im not running any cats i spoke with the gasoline engine performance tech in person at the local ford dealer hes been there 30 years and is the best tech there he said that only the first two sensors are the 02 sensors the two sensors after the cats are emission sensors and do nothing to the performance of the vehicle so im gonna try it and see what happens.
Start up video.
http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/g...t=100_3023.flv

 

Glad to see you got it running! I'm excited to hear it with an exhaust. What kind of muffler are you going to run?

 

Im not sure yet it will have cherry bombs for the winter and ill have to decide once it gets warmer outside plus i got no more money to spend on it and already have the cherry bombs.
What are you running for mufflers?

 

where are the pics

 

At the moment I have a Borla Pro something... single 3" in with dual 2.5". I've tried a flow master super 44 and delta 50 dumped behind the cab and didn't really care for either. I do like my Borla alot though, real nice tone with no inside drone.

 

I was thinking magna flow but i did like the sound of your truck at the dunes though to

 

Okay i just got the truck back from the exhaust shop tonight the bill came out to $160 and its worth at least twice that very nice system he put together welded everything including the 02 bungs and hung it also he did an excelent job and sounds good to.

But on the down side it still didnt fix my problem. Here is what the truck does to the best of my explaining abilities, First start it it idles about a minute then dies do t again then dies after about a minute and a half and do it a couple more times and it will do the same thing after a while it will stay idiling although very unconsistent. Then when we drove it around it would do the same put it in a gear move about 7-8" then die and will keep doing it.
Im thinking it may be a vacume issue i have one line not hooked up i dont know where it goes to can someone help its the one circled in red.


Also here are the pins that are different would any of these make it run like this?

Explorer
Pin Circuit What it does
4 *511(L/G) Brake on/off input
12 *224(T/W) Trans control switch input
14 91(P/W) Evaporative emmisions canister purge valve
17 791(R/PK) Fuel tank pressuer transducer
19 351(BR/W) Reference voltage
20 not used Not used
27 305(LB/PK) Fuel flow output
28 394(O/BK) It says not used?
29 *784(LB/BK) Not listed?
39 191(LG/BK) Vapor managment
40 *911(W/LG) Trans control indicator lamp

Ranger
Pin Circuit What it does
4 Not used Not used
12 Not used Not used
14 101(GY/Y) Evaporative emissions can purge valve
17 Not used Not used
19 Not used Not used
23 330(Y/LG) No wire in plug
27 Not Used Not used
28 Not used Not used
29 Not used Not used
39 30(BK/LG) Purge flow sensor input
40 Not used Not used
These are the pins that are different any advice/help is appreciated.

 

Well, I can tell you that without the fuel tank pressure sensor you are going to get EVAP Codes... the ranger had to have had one somewhere b/c that's how the computer knows the EVAP system is holding a vacuum. See if you can find its location in the ranger's book. It may have been part of the Engine harness and located in one of the EVAP vacuum lines instead of in the fuel tank like it is on the explorer. The vacuum line you circled is the EVAP hose that goes to the Purge solenoid.

However, Im pretty sure that #39 is still the same thing, only worded differently.

Pins 14 are the same in Both vehicles, only different wire colors, no big deal there.

I believe the #12 pin on the Explorer is supposed to get a signal from the OD on/off switch. You can manually wire one in with a push button since you are running a ratchet shifter. Not having it won't hurt anything, But you will not be able to turn OD off. Pin 40 in the explorer harness causes the "OD Off" light to come on when you push the button to turn off OD. This light will also come on and flash if any transmission faults are found.

Pin 4 on the explorer side is most likely tied to the brake light switch, or the switch on the E brake (see a chilton's book for info on this).

Unfortunately, Im not sure what Pins 19 or 27 in the Explorer harness are used for... maybe Bob can chime in and help with this.

Also, If i were you, go get a chiltons repair book for both the Explorer and the Ranger. Look through their wiring diagrams. I bet you could get 99% of this figured out by studying those.

If you did go ahead and get the Mass Air flow sensor and the O2 sensors hooked up, i'm not sure what could be causing your idle issue. The only things that are not active (not hooked up due to differences in the 42 pin connector wiring) that I see maybe causing this issue would be the EVAP pressure transducer (I would think this to be likely at idle since the EVAP system isn't active then), or Possibly the Fuel flow output (I have no idea on this though).

I know that wasn't a ton of help, but maybe its good enough to fix a couple of small things.

 

Pin 27 is used only to tell the Explorer trip computer the fuel flow for FE and DTE calculations. You don't need it.

Pin 17 and 19 are for the fuel tank pressure transducer. One is the 5v reference voltage and the other is the sensor output to the PCM.

A little history: by EPA mandate, OBDII was required on cars and light duty trucks sold in the USA from 1996 onward. So the Explorer and most other Fords became compliant in 96. OBDII was a really big deal for car manufacturers because it meant that they had to actually monitor the performance of various emission systems instead of just doing simple electrical checks on components like OBDI did. So, in order to be sure that they were ready in time, some companies like Ford started testing it in production before 96. That's why your 95 Ranger is an OBDII vehicle even though it was not legally required.

The most difficult monitor for Ford to perfect was the Evap 0.040" Leak Check Monitor that used the fuel tank pressure transducer. Since the Evap Leak Monitor was not ready for prime time for 1995 production, Ford left off the hardware and deferred it. As 1996 rolled around, other manufacturers were having similar problems with monitors and EPA allowed them to phase in OBDII with limited "difficiencies" over the next couple of years.

So, going over the EVTMs and the Ford OBD System Operation Summary, it looks like the 96 5.0 Explorer got the "enhanced" evap leak check hardware and wiring but it appears that the Ranger didn't get it until 1998. That's why the EVTM shows pins 17 and 19 as unused on the 95 Ranger.

 

So do you think that pin 17/19 could be causing my problem then?
"The vacuum line you circled is the EVAP hose that goes to the Purge solenoid. "
Where is this purge solenoid located at?

 

If you have any manifold vacuum line open and leaking, you have the potential for idle problems. The timing of the stall sounds like it may be happening when the PCM goes into closed loop fuel control.

I can't think of a reason why the missing transducer on 17/19 would be causing the engine to stall. However, you WILL get an OBDII trouble code or codes for this.

The 95~97 Ranger's Purge Solenoid Valve is in the plumbing near the carbon canister behind the driver side rad support.

 

Bob, how will he get around the CEL and the codes for the EVAP? Whoever did my swap retrofitted the Transducer into my fuel tank, but they did a bad job somewhere because I get EVAP leak codes, and have no EVAP leaks.

My guess would be that he would somehow have to retrofit the transducer into the EVAP system somewhere. It wouldn't necessarily have to go into the tank though, as long as it was in the tank side of the Purge Solenoid Valve. Or... he could take it to a tuner and have the parameters modified so that the all of the requirements would never be satisfied (such as the speed for checking to be raised to 200 mph, or the temp to be raised to 300 degrees) so that the computer wouldn't check that system.

Is this correct? Or does he have any other options?

I am just wondering because I am running into an issue here as well, and I have to do another truck here soon and want to know a solution to this problem before I get started on it.

 

Well i got it to run right it idles pretty good and dosent stall out when you put it in gear i havent went down the road yet just back and forth in the barn which it wouldnt do before.
I there were 3 lines comming up from the fuel tank one return one sending and i wasnt sure what the other was but it did go to that canister so i pulled the end off the canister and put it on the vacume hook up on the manifold and it ran fine.
Do i have to keep that canister or can i get rid of it?

 

Fuel Supply
Fuel Return
Vapor vent

Keep it. It sounds like you have the canister bypassed right now. The vent from the tank should be hooked up exactly as it originally was and the purge line should run from the canister to the engine with the Purge Solenoid and the Purge Flow sensor in between - just like it was with the 6 cylinder.

 

okay thanks alot for all your help guys probably wouldnt be done with it if you guys didnt help out.
Ill get some pics today or tomorrow and maybe a vid.

 

How about swapping in the factory tank, VMV and canister from a 98-up truck along with the pressure tranducer and vent lines? Not sure if the tank is bolt in or if there would be any complications with the return fuel lines and pump. Should be doable somehow.

 

You know, that is a great idea... by the way, what is VMV. Lol, I don't know all the abbreviations.

 

The Vapor Management Valve has two functions. One is canister purge flow as in 97-back Rangers. The other is the vacuum leak test on the fuel tank evap system. 98+ Ranger has it mounted in the left inner fender area low and about halfway back. I believe that the 5.0 Ex has it below the battery tray. Many Wiring Manuals/EVTMs continue to label the VMV as the 'Canister Purge Solenoid' probably because the solenoid is the electrical part of the VMV.

Here's a good article:
http://www.search-autoparts.com/sear...58/article.pdf

 

Well i got a chance to scan it today and the only codes were EVAP codes and i got a code for the TRS that said the trans was not in neutral/park during the test but it was in park?
The teacher said you we can test the switch and see if its bad also the trans seems to shift very eraticly sometimes it will wind out ALOT and sometimes it shifts way to fast so i wonder if i dont have the lever positioned right or something for the switch to work properly or if it just needs a valve body/shift kit?