So i just ordered the L&L oil filter rolocation kit shifter motor mounts tranny cooler accel coil ford racing plug wires and ac eliminator kit it should be here tomorrow or thursday.
Hopefully the 4.0 will be out saturday.
Can anybody answer this When i put the L&L oil filter relocation on do i have to keep the oil cooler that is right before the filter? I can just take it off and run a regular coolant hose and then bolt the oil filter straight to the relocation kit right?
Thanks

 

Right.

 

Okay thank you bob i didnt think it would hirt anything but i wasnt 100% sure.
I have another question also about the the 5.0's heater hose, one hose has a little valve looking thing it looks like it runs off vacume or something will i need to keep it? Im pretty sure the 4.0 dosent have it. Ill get a pic if you dont know what part im talking about.
thanks

 

That valve turns off coolant flow to the heater core in OFF and MAX A/C using the HVAC vac controls. My 03 4.0L had it and I have it hooked up with the 5.0L too. I thought yours had it but it might be a 4-port bypass in both hoses instead of the later 2-port on off valve in one hose. The 95 EVTM manual shows the valve. Look for it up near the firewall in the stock heater hoses.

 

So they are different then?
Which one should i use the 5.0's or the 4.0's ill look this week to see if i have it.

 

As a first choice, I would try to use the type that came with the truck.

 

Thats what i was thinking also.
What kind of performance spark plug wires are there for the 5.0's with the ignition coils that it has?I bought these Ford Racing M-12259-Y301 - Ford Racing Spark Plug Wire Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com thinking they would work but they are not the right ends for the coil. Here is the coils i bought also ACCEL 140018 - ACCEL Ford 4-Tower Style EDIS Super Coil Packs - Overview - SummitRacing.com will i have to use stock wires or can i get a performance wire?
Couple pics of the stuff

 

I'm running the stock coils and wires. There may be alternatives but I don't see any need to change them. The later Motorcraft ignition stuff is very good.

 

Ill just run motorcrafts then those FRPP wires were cheap though 45 dollars for a 9mm they wanted 35 for a cheap set of cables at the local auto shops but ohh well ill run the motorcrafts.

 

Lucky for you. I got factory Motorcraft wires for the 98+ with the cast manifolds, and they were $100, and that was on my shop account!

 

Man that sucks lol i think the motorcrafts were like $40 or something like that.
I may have some update pics tomorrow i think im gonna put the shifter together and get the adapter on the trans.

 

Well no pics but i got the intake off and cleaned the TB and the rest off the intake im going to have my brother paint it for me got the power steering pump all cleaned and got my AC delete kit installed also took the water pump off as it had a bad bearing got headers/motor mounts on temporarily also thats all until i get more parts tomorrow.

 

Man, I'd love to drop a 5.0 in my 95... my biggest concern would be gettin it all in, and get it runnin and find out the motor is bad or has some major issues!

 

Thats just a chance you take haha.
I got my B&M shift lever installed on the trans last night the lever fit in there and works fine but on the side of the trans there is a big connector that the old shift lever went through and it would turn as the lever moved through the gears. What is that connector for? Will i have to mount it back on there somehow for the trans to shift properly?
Ill try to get pics tonight so you guys know what im talkin about.
Thanks

 

Transmission Range Sensor which tells the PCM what gear position has been selected by the driver. The PCM needs it. The TRS also controls the park/neutral starter interlock and the reverse lights.

 

Can i just plug it back in or does it need to turn when the lever turns also?

 

It needs to move with the gear selector. Otherwise, it would always send the same gear position info to the PCM. The 4R70W transmission is electronically controlled, so the PCM needs to know what gear position the driver has selected.

 

Well I think im just going to cut the old lever that goes into the trans and put it in a lathe turn it down to the ID of the B&M shift lever ( the B&M lever has a hole that goes through it just so you guys know) and JB weld the old lever in to the B&M lever then it will turn just like it used to with out the B&M lever and it will still send the correct signals.
Does that sound like it will work?
Thats really the only thing i can think to do.

 

That might work, but I wold have some small TIG welds laid onto it instead of using JB weld.

 

The B&M lever is aluminum and the stock lever is steel can you tig those together? I didnt think you can but idk. I think it will be fine all its turning is the sensor itself it doesnt take much to turn it.

 

I would some how tried to make a mechanical connection, if that JB weld fails on ya one day I would venture to say you are gonna be finding a tow truck... Any way to drill both peices and pop rivet them together, and also JB weld?

 

Mybe a roll pin or a set screw, i can if it will work. thta s good idea i didnt think about that.

 

woohoo I possibly contributed to something!!! Heck, even sandwich the jb weld between the two peices the use the roll pin/set screw... more stuff the better so long as it doesn't hinder it's movement in my opinion!

 

Ya im thinking a roll pin will work.
I got my L&L oil relocation kit and got my t-case shift linkage also.
Motor is comming out friday night /saturday morning.

 

Motor trans t-case is out