Awesome! when are the new parts going in?

 

Im hoping to have motor trans and t-case in today and bolted down.
Well the motor is in .......... kinda.
Lot more work then i thought though i will have to have a body lift to clear the bell housing and firewall also, im going to do 2" solid mounts.
Is there any options as far as heater boxes? cuz im really close to it as far as exhaust is going to go.

 

And updated pix?

 

maybe today im gonna work on the BL today

 

Does anyone know the diferences between the AOD and the 4R70W? Are the cases about the same size or is one bigger? The reaseon i ask is because i am looking at these headers Ford Bronco II Exhaust Systems, 302 V8 Headers, Computer Chips, Accel Kool Blue Air Filter and the said on the phone that they wont work with the AOD trans or a C6 trans im geussing because their to big?

The trans is in and the body lift is on.

 

Well i got my headers and put them on everything fits so that mad me happy. I am hoping to get the t-case in and bolted up then everything can come back out get sealed up then put back in this weekend. Then its just wiring.
Bob do you know if the ford evtm's have the c-124 and c-115 wiring diagram connectors in them? if so im gonna get them over the weekend hopefully.

 

The EVTMs show the pinouts of both connectors.

 

Okay thank you.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-...sQ5fLiterature
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-...sQ5fLiterature
So these are what i need correct Bob?
just wanna know before i buy them

 

Those look good.

 

I will be able to just take the clutch pedal off then right? or will i have to get a pedal assembly out off a ranger with an auto trans so i wouldnt have the clutch assembly.

 

The shaft that goes through the brake pedal pivot is one piece with the clutch pedal. So, you either need to get a pivot shaft from an automatic truck or cut the clutch pedal off of the manual shaft.

 

Ill prollay just cut the pedal then so i dont have to buy another one are there any sensors you know off that are on the clutch pedal that i may still need?
Got my EVTM'S ordered today also.

 

There is a Clutch Pedal Position switch on the push rod that goes to the clutch master cylinder. The CPP switch has the three switches inside, one of which is for the clutch/starter interlock. You must jumper the missing switches out of the circuits to make the starter and cruise control work. Automatic trucks have a special jumper connector that fits in place of the CPP switch but I don't know if it is available separately from Ford.

 

okay will the evtm have a diagram of it do you know?
If not where will i have to jump the wire to?
Im not very good at electrical if you cant tell haha but i thank you for helping me Bob

 

If you can get the automatic jumper from a wrecking yard, then plug it in and you're done. I didn't have the factory part so I jumped the 3 individual switches with 3 small wires and pins, then taped it all up and tied it up under the dash. The jumper is shown on page 20-1 of the 95 Ranger EVTM.

 

Okay thank you i think i kay just get the auto brake pedal assembly.
Well today my dad and i got the motor trans and t-case in and now just have to bolt it down so thats the hardest part done.
I ended up using the AWD case that came with the explorer, there is no way that 1356 was gonna fit in there so ill just run that for now then get the AA kit next year and get a M1354 and use my old driveshafts.
I might have a couple pics tomorrow if anyone wants.

 

Lol, an AWD Ranger!

 

No i can just unlock my hubs unlike you d-30'd rangers haha jk
So i started looking through my evtm's today and found the correct connector for the expo the c-115 but how do you tell wahat the connectors go to and what there for so you can correctyl match them up? do you just go through the whole book to find one stinking wire to see what it is?
Oh ratchet shifter is all done also.

 

no pictures?

 

friday i promise

 

Well hopefully it will get started tomorrow i got about a halfs days work then try to start it.
Maybe a first start vid tomorrow but i will get pics either ways.

 

Well, Friday has come and gone. Where are the pics? Haha.

 

No pics but ill do you one better it started and ran today we didnt change on pin in the 42 pin connector heck we didnt do anything electrical it started first crank. Plus our camera is dead so thats why there are no pics we just gotta get the exhaust done and intake on.
I do have one question though it will sit and idle fine when you give it gas it will rev up but then wants to die right after im thinking that its cause its just open headers right now and has no 02's either but hopefully i will get the exhaust done this week and see if it helps.
Ill also get a vid as soon as we get batterys for the camera.

 

The O2s may be the problem for sure... I would definitely get them i before I worried too much about that.

So, let me get this straight, you didn't have to re-pin anything? You just plugged the engine/trans harness right into the truck harness and it worked correctly? Are all the guages working? Im not saying you should've had to, but Ive got that 97 Im gonna have to do the 5.0 swap in, and hes got a 97 truck getting a 97 5.0... I was hoping the only thing we would have to change would be the tach feed wire.

 

Yes im sorry we havent changed the tach yet i forgot about that but on the 42 pin connector we tripple checked everything on the evtm's (huge help i would recomend getting them) and it said that most matched up there were a few different but we didnt change them. we still have to do somethnig with the clutch pedal also you have to pull the sensor up by had because it wont let the clutch pedal go down for some reason.

Yes im thinking it has somthing to do with the 02's also we will see though.