8-Cylinder Tech If you are one of the few with a V8 engine in your Ranger, or if you dream of a Ranger with a V8 engine, this is the sub-forum for you.

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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #126  
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Quick question. How do I remove the frost plugs.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #127  
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From: arthur
auto body dent puller
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #128  
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any other way then that.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #129  
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From: arthur
a screw driver ,,,, but be very carefull

i asked the same question many years ago

i got the same answer ( auto body dent puller )
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #130  
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how do you do it with a screw driver
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #131  
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From: arthur
gently pry it out
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #132  
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Ok. Sounds easy enough.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #133  
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With screw driver and hammer knock one side in so it twist in the hole and pull it out
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #134  
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Ok.Will give it a whirl tonight.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #135  
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Chisel. I have knocked mine into the block several times before, there is usually very little room for them to move, then I grab them with a good pair of pliers and yank. As nitro said though, knock it so it turns and pull it out is the easiest way.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #136  
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Done. If everything had gone like this right from the start the engine would be in the truck right now. I think it took me easily less the 2 min to knock them out. One went in side the block. like you said Rob i just grabbed pliers and yanked. no to get my hands on a pressure washer and clean the hell out of that block.


While i am talking about cleaning.... how do i get rid of all of the pitting on the block. I was thinking die grinding the whole thing.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #137  
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From: arthur
the best thing you could do for that engine block

is take it to a engine rebuilder and have them dunk in their acid bath

it will thoroughly clean inside and outside of the block

and remove any crystalized coolant inside the passages

it is probably the best investment you could ever do to a rebuilt engine

there is no sense in putting all of that money into a rebuilt engine , only to find out that there are blocked coolant passages inside the engine
 

Last edited by cheese_man; Aug 12, 2010 at 03:12 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #138  
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I used 2 inch sanding disk and sand paper rolls for the tight spots. 50 and 80 grit worked good for me.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #139  
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Originally Posted by cheese_man
the best thing you could do for that engine block

is take it to a engine rebuilder and have them dunk in their acid bath

it will thoroughly clean inside and outside of the block

and remove any crystalized coolant inside the passages

it is probably the best investment you could ever do to a rebuilt engine

there is no sense in putting all of that money into a rebuilt engine , only to find out that there are blocked coolant passages inside the engine

How long does that usually take.... roughly
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #140  
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Originally Posted by nitro
I used 2 inch sanding disk and sand paper rolls for the tight spots. 50 and 80 grit worked good for me.
Ya i dont feel like sitting there for hrs doing it by hand. But i will keep it in mind if the die grinder is taking to much off.


Also on a side note. I am looking to getting a set of Gt40P heads lower and upper intake. Now seeing as how those are all aluminum am I going to be running in to problems down the road with the heads crackling and stuff like that. I mentioned it to my nabour and he said to try and stick with the steel heads.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #141  
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I know several people that run the alum. ones with no probs. they spend alot time between 210 and 250 degrees.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #142  
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hmm ok.


So I am now looking at the exhaust side of the house. I do not want to run the stuck headers. And I am not a big fan of the Headman headers. What else can i run with out having to spend a ton of cash. Can I run JBA shorty's. Or something along those lines.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #143  
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Avoid the headmans they are junk.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #144  
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Hmm ok. I see a few of the guys on here who run them I figured that they were pretty descent. But seeing as how i am going to be stuck for space.... what can i run.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #145  
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From: arthur
usually around 2 to 3 hours depending on the rebuilder
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #146  
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Originally Posted by cheese_man
usually around 2 to 3 hours depending on the rebuilder
wow thats not to bad.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #147  
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Look at jamesduff.com
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #148  
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ok but will those work for a conversion. I dont want to get them to find out I dont have enough room.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #149  
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I would email/call them if those want fit i'm sure they can lead you in the right direction.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010
  #150  
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ok.
 
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