5.0L plans - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


8-Cylinder Tech If you are one of the few with a V8 engine in your Ranger, or if you dream of a Ranger with a V8 engine, this is the sub-forum for you.

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  #26  
Old 10-08-2009
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Originally Posted by mlw20lu View Post
Flywheel (not sure which one to use)
The 5.0 Ex needs a 164T truck flywheel with 50 oz imbalance. These are not hard to find since they were used in a lot of later model 5.0 F-series. I have one that you can have for the cost of shipping. It is a little rusty and needs to be resurfaced but otherwise looks OK. A local guy here quoted me $50 to grind it.

The manual truck flywheel takes a different starter with a 3/8" shorter nose. The 5.0 Ex automatic starter will not work. You also need the manual truck block plate to match.

The clutch/pressure plate is an 11" truck part, again sourced from a late F-series.

If you need a specific year to order the clutch kit, block plate, starter, slave cylinder or flywheel, just ask for the parts for a 1996 5.0L F250.

The 6 metric sized holes in the 4.2 M5ODR2 bell housing need to be drilled out very slightly to accept the 7/16" 5.0 bolts. The pattern for the bell to the engine block is exactly correct but you may need to add two holes at the bottom of the 5.0 block plate to match the 4.2 bell - neither operation is difficult.
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  #27  
Old 10-08-2009
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dude i cant wait to see how the manual tranny works out. i want a full write up plz lol
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  #28  
Old 10-08-2009
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Originally Posted by mlw20lu View Post
might be a stupid question but since I have to make my exhaust and im not being blessed like Chris' and have the exhaust included can i reuse my o2 sensors? better off just shellin out for new ones huh... on that note. mustangs run catless... since im basically building a mustang engine, would I be ok with running none or 1 cat? def not runnin those stock 4!
IIRC, I reused some of the Ranger oxygen sensors because some of the Ex sensors were damaged in what the junkyard laughingly refers to as "handling". Keep in mind that the front sensors are not the same as the rears. Also, pigtail length could be a problem with some swaps.

I have retained all 4 stock cats and sensors on mine. However, using a properly set up system with just the front two cats along with 2 fore and 2 aft O2 sensors, there will be no check engine light. There's no reason to go totally catless with a stock or moderately built engine.
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  #29  
Old 10-08-2009
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The 5.0 Ex needs a 164T truck flywheel with 50 oz imbalance. These are not hard to find since they were used in a lot of later model 5.0 F-series. I have one that you can have for the cost of shipping. It is a little rusty and needs to be resurfaced but otherwise looks OK. A local guy here quoted me $50 to grind it.

The manual truck flywheel takes a different starter with a 3/8" shorter nose. The 5.0 Ex automatic starter will not work. You also need the manual truck block plate to match.

The clutch/pressure plate is an 11" truck part, again sourced from a late F-series.

If you need a specific year to order the clutch kit, block plate, starter, slave cylinder or flywheel, just ask for the parts for a 1996 5.0L F250.

The 6 metric sized holes in the 4.2 M5ODR2 bell housing need to be drilled out very slightly to accept the 7/16" 5.0 bolts. The pattern for the bell to the engine block is exactly correct but you may need to add two holes at the bottom of the 5.0 block plate to match the 4.2 bell - neither operation is difficult.

sweet. thanks. I knew that I would have to get a diff starter. Thanks for the year/model truck. ill just get everything for that, minus the trans.!
yea drillin/tappin 2 holes is no big deal. So the block plate is what exactly. im slightly confused. my 3.0 mazda tranny bolted right up to the block.
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  #30  
Old 10-08-2009
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I'm saying that I have a good reference book that says the 94~95 Cobras and the 5.0 Explorers used the same valve covers. When you add that to the fact that the Cobras had the Ford/Crane 1.7's, it would imply that they should work under the Explorer covers equally well. Like I said, I put one under my stock 99 Ex valve cover for a test and it seemed to clear OK. Again, I have not run the engine with a full set in it yet.

The cam in the Explorers is not a hot rod cam but it is not that bad either. It was released in the 94+ 5.0 E/F/B for improved idle quality but it also makes a few more ponies and is freer revving than the previous 5.0 truck cam.

Keep in mind that the Explorer made a peak advertised HP of 211~215 compared to 205~225 in the injected Mustang HO over the years. Not too shabby for a soccer mom / trailer tow engine. The Ex cam has a little less intake lift compared to the HO but actually has slightly more exhaust lift. Intake duration is less but exhaust duration is the same as the HO.

I'm going to go with the stock Cobra cam and 1.7 rockers in mine. That cam was designed to be used with those rockers and also with the GT-40 type heads and intake manifolds that the Cobra and Explorer share. This combo should have good idle quality and work well with a manual trans. The 94/95 Cobra was advertised at 240 HP but that is considered by many to be a conservative number for that engine.
Im keeping the explorer cam no doubt but with the 1.7 ford/crane roller rockers, should we see a nice increase in power?? Im guessing opening up the valves a lot more lets more air in/out...

great info on the rockers by the way, thanks for clearing up confusion
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  #31  
Old 10-08-2009
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The valve covers on an 89 to 93 Mustang will work with the 1.7 Roller Rockers as well, long as the passengers side baffle is removed.
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  #32  
Old 10-08-2009
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Originally Posted by mlw20lu View Post
sweet. thanks. I knew that I would have to get a diff starter. Thanks for the year/model truck. ill just get everything for that, minus the trans.!
yea drillin/tappin 2 holes is no big deal. So the block plate is what exactly. im slightly confused. my 3.0 mazda tranny bolted right up to the block.
It's a plate, maybe about 1/8" thick that fits between the block and bellhousing. It reinforces both and shields the bottom of the clutch from road debris/spray and provides the correct spacing for the input shaft length. You must get the right one for your 302 application. Auto/manual blockplates are different. Blockplates for 157T and 164T are different.
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  #33  
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Im keeping the explorer cam no doubt but with the 1.7 ford/crane roller rockers, should we see a nice increase in power?? Im guessing opening up the valves a lot more lets more air in/out...
Substituting the higher ratio arms should give you something noticeable. I couldn't say how much.
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  #34  
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Any suggestions on wether to go 8.8 or 9" I have to replace the whoe thing anyway ya know.
For a stock 5.0L, I'd go with an 8.8. A 28-spline Ranger 8.8 is relatively cheap and easy to find and is a bolt in. Zillions of stock and modified 5.0L Mustangs run a similar axle.

For a 4x4 and/or a moderately built 5.0, I'd prefer the strength of a 31-spline 8.8 from a gen2 Explorer or a Level II. The Level II is a bolt in. The Ex needs some fab work but offers discs.

Ultimate option: Bolt in a Level II axle and bolt Explorer discs onto it. The only real hassle is adapting the e-brake cables.
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  #35  
Old 10-09-2009
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thanks... yea i realized what the block plate was pretty quick after i posted. AFA the flywheel. hold onto it for now and if you ever think about pitching it let me know before hand. lol Im just gonna go with the usual 8.8 from an Exp with discs. easy to find. how hard ebrake cable to mod on that one?
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  #36  
Old 10-09-2009
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Hey Bob, since I am switching to a Explorer rear end and f150 tranny. theres gotta be a good way to get my speedo to work right. any ideas? or best you used the SL2 still?
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  #37  
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What year is your Ranger again?
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  #38  
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2001
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  #39  
Old 10-09-2009
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You'll be removing the Ranger PCM which is the VSS conversion module in your 2001. So, you'll have to substitute something else like a GEM, 4WABS Module or aftermarket converter box to take its place. I think a converter box like the SpeedChanger II is the simplest solution because it comes with actual wiring instructions (!) and because it doesn't take a dealer tool to calibrate.
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  #40  
Old 10-09-2009
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very tru. OR i could finally buy a GPS with the mph built in for the same price lol ha! and less wiring
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  #41  
Old 10-09-2009
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haha thats what I use if I ever need to be sure/close on speed. But I've driven it with no speedo for so long that I just know by sound and rpms about how fast I'm going. I may get the SC2 later on though.
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  #42  
Old 10-09-2009
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As far as the 1.7 rockers... I put a set on mine, and they made some noticeable difference, but it wasn't a ton. I mean. it sounded exactly the same and everything, just revved slightly faster. But... I am still running stock cast iron exploder exhaust manifolds though so that was most likely the major limiting factor there. I put on some aluminum GT mustang valve covers and just modified the valve cover to move the baffle higher. I had no rubbing issues, but the oil filler didn't fit right, and it wasn't such a good fit over all. I ended up taking the rockers back off though b/c they were worn too much and ticked after the engine warmed up. Someday I might get another set though if I can find them for a good price.
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  #43  
Old 10-10-2009
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Back on Axle talk. with the 8.8 and the 5.0 on 35's of course its still going to be my DD. Any ideas of the best all around gear to run? I just went to the local JY today and 8.8's as far as the eye can see. Id like to get one with the right gears right off the lot so I dont have to worry about changing and spending extra money when not needed.
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  #44  
Old 10-10-2009
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with a 5.0 and daily driven maybe a 4.56 or 4.88 max, I had 4.10 with 35's and it wasnt too bad. Anything higher than 4.56 is gona be putting you at some high rpms on the road, depending on how that trans is setup.
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  #45  
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I'm running my stock 4.10's and 31" tires but the V8 could easily pull 3.55's and still do moderate off roading. With 35's, I think you'd be fine with 4.10's for a daily.
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  #46  
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yeah plus I believe you can stay lower in gears if you use a manual trans. correct me if I'm wrong. So 4.56 for an auto and 4.10s work good with a man. for 35" tires.
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  #47  
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If you are stuck on a factory ratio then 4.10 is what you need. However, I run 4.56s and its my DD and I like that setup a lot.
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  #48  
Old 10-10-2009
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So which Exp's came with 4.10's ??
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  #49  
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you just have to ask for it, or check yourself. It can be a number of them,just depends on if it was ordered or not. Just like how my 3.0 4x4 ranger had a 8.8 w/4.10s stock, pretty rare.
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  #50  
Old 10-11-2009
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tru. I gotta save some cash and go pick on up. how hard is the ebrake to mod? obviously since im manual i looove my ebrake lol plannin on checkin out gears to make sure there ok but totally replace rotors n pads
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