how are those trans shift kits. found some on summit. really worth tearin into the tranny. I mean im not a tranny expert but im pretty meticulous and can follow directions to a T so i think i could handle it.

 

There is a lot of debate about this when applied to electronically shifted transmissions. Many believe that the better way to go is through the electronics and that argument has its merits. A basic $300~400 PCM flash tuner from SCT or Special Forces Tuning (used to be Sniper) can do limited modification of shift points and tweak the line pressure using simple menus. A $600~700 ProRacer or Delta Force tuner from the same companies can do a whole lot more and requires much more skill/experience to use.

By contrast, a shift kit does its thing mechanically and lets the electronics work around it. It is also the cheapest option (about $50~150).

TransGo and Baumann shift kits have good reps. I'm sure there are others. Shift kits usually involve stuff like changing springs and valves and drilling out orifice holes in the separator plate. It's pretty straightforward and basic kits can be installed with the trans in place.

In my 4R70W, I installed a medium priced TransGo AODE-HD2 "reprogramming kit" using the hole sizes recommended for longer service life in taxis, police cars and other fleet vehicles. It is not a race-oriented kit so it still maintains good part throttle shifting for a daily driver. It was easy enough to install and it livened up the shifting. I really dislike the drawn out, sliding factory shifts that the consumer clinics say the average driver wants - this kit goes a long way toward addressing that.

TransGo supplied clearly marked parts, thorough printed instructions and also have a good downloadable video available to supplement the instructions. You'll need a set of number drill bits for the modified holes in the separator plate. Good bang for the buck - about $100 shipped on eBay.

AODE and 4R70W Performance Products - Baumann Electronic Controls
Ford Lincoln Mercury Reprogramming Kits
Install Assistance Videos
TCCoA Tech Articles

 

sweet. thanks. Im still gonna have to get the ECU flashed neway. so possible for both electronic and mechanical?

 

If the guy who writes the tune is thorough, he can do anything you want to the transmission. I wouldn't expect that to happen though. More often than not, tunes are off the shelf from the manufacturer and may just do global tweaks like upping the line pressure. I couldn't say how it would compare to a shift kit.

 

PCMperformance Programming

 

this might be a dumb question but i cant reuse my o2 sensors can i? btw what all from my 3.0 will i be hacking and splitting other than the ignition/start harness

 

I think we already talked about the O2's earlier in this thread.

You'll need to compare Wiring Manuals to see what needs to be repinned, particularly at the 42 pin engine to engine bay connector. Fortunately, only a small number of the total will need to be changed. I had to add wires there for the Explorer PATS but it sounds like you'll be able to avoid that part.

 

ha im an idoit i realized i already asked about the o2 sensors.. yea def gonna reuse mine. those things are around 50 bucks a piece. f that lol...

Ebay to the rescue again. just got a 2 prong CMP today for 30 bucks! guy was advertising a 2 prong for a 97 so i emailed him and he was like"i bought it cuz i needed the 3 prong and the guy i bought it from said it was a 97" so yay for me.

still need a bunch of crap tho. off the top of my head for just engine to be put back together....

water pump
fan (clutch in good shape)
harness (on its way)
fuel rail/ injectors
bolts for alternator and AC compressor
vavle covers to fit RR
intake spacer
belt
new pully
90 degree oil filter adapter.
egr tube (broke the orig removing it)
lower motor mounts.
MAF sensor (any idea on what all ones work or interchange? I might have one in the garage from a stang)
IAT sensor
timing chain (might as well)

yayyy haha but hey thats one step closer

 

yes run both! it is ultimately the best IMO.

I have both on my ranger and wouldnt change it for the world. :)

 

The 99~01 5.0 and my 03 4.0L are both 70mm w/ 6-wire connector and the local dealer told me that the part numbers are the same. I believe that most 5.0 Mustangs are 55mm and 4-wire (separate 2-wire IAT sensor). You'll definitely need to get the right one or have the PCM calibration custom matched to whatever you decide to use. That's about all I can tell you.

 

Do these valve covers in this pic look bigger than stock?? I think they do...

 

Yes they do. Notice that I didn't say that tall covers would not fit with TMH, only that you should be cautious. I found a type that wouldn't fit and there are probably others out there.

BTW, those but not the usual Torque Monsters. If I'm not mistaken, they are a mutant variety developed to clear the brake booster or something like that on early Ranger swaps.

 

Thats the plan. the company thats flashing in just does an all in one unless u want something crazy so thats "free" so my only out of pocket cost would be the shift kit. id say its worth it. then id also get the experience of delving into a trans. Im obsessed with learning how to do everything

Ill just JY this one. Actually most of that stuff i prolly will get front the JY anything i can. except for a water pump.

oh and i need ac lines and block so that does suck. thats gonna be a lil more difficult to find and like 150 new. trying to stay away from those $100 price tag parts if i can avoid it lol.

Progress! I did get all the Upper and Lower intake, Elbow, Throttle body, Accesory brackets all cleaned up. Oven Off is amazing! wow just peeled the sludge right off.

Hopin to get totally cleaned up and ready to spray paint on Sat. Lower intake and brackets will be "alluminum" or the closest they can be. Upper intake and elbow will be Gloss Black.

 

oh i miss read that lol

 

I got everything painted last night! well almost but a lot more than i was planning. Ended up with more time on my hands than i thought i would have.Ill have pics when i get to my gf place.

I have those same valve covers ^ in my garage. Gonna see if i can polish em up today, there pretty tarnished. if not they will get painted or chromed. not sure yet.

Thinkin about chroming the pulleys. think itll be a nice touch and since i have the down time neway.

 

ok paint pics.

 

Looking good.

That Dupli-Color Ceramic Engine Enamel is good stuff. I painted the upper and lower intakes and the accessory drive brackets with DE1650 "Cast Coat Aluminum" 2 years ago and they still look great in spite of a lot of handling in between.

 

yea ive gotten pretty good at paiting using spray cans lol. i also put 2 heavy coats of clear on everything too. Looks great in person.. I will say this. that "aluminum" paint is amazing. It went on and the color is perfect. My bro in law thought i had it bead blasted at first glance.

Also got the heads pulled and all gasket surfaces cleaned up on the heads and block. Block taped off. Still need to pull crank pulley/harmonic balancer to remove timing chaim. Had a timing chain in the garage so that can be crossed off the list. then clean and paint the block and oil pan.

Next project is removing springs from heads and getting those cleaned up/sprayed/ ported and polished. =]

 

So ive been tossin around the idea of makin my own exhaust. I really only want a single side exit exhaust. wondering on pipe size. I mean I could use my extisting Catback for mock up and then take some measurements of the stock headers and placement and do it myself for less than 100 bucks. Ive got 2 flowmaster 40 series in the garage from the stang.

Stock down tube is 2" or 2.5" ? And sense i dont want to use duals a 2.5 catback or step up to 3"?

 

IIRC, the stock down pipes are around 2" and get a little larger rearward. Here's a good discussion on the subject from people who have tried different combos:
5.0 Exhaust Thread

 

well from reading and scanning through a lot of that looks as what i was planning is the way to go. I;m guessing the stock size is actually 2.25". hoping to do 2.5 from headers to a dual 2.5 in and single 3" out exiting after pass rear tire. def gonna do it myself take the right measurements it shouldnt be too difficult.

 

got my 2 prong FORD CMP yesterday and today i ordered my Port/Polish kit from summit!!.. so thats basically what ill be doing for the next few weeks lol.

Im actually figuring only another 4-5 months on this build. between Christmas/ 2010 tax return ( i do my own and i make my own w2 so i get it done super fast) I should be able to speed it up! yay!

Bad news however. the company that was supposed to ship my Harness dropped the ball and just refunded me 75$.. ugh now i gotta either pull one or find one. fuuun. SO if anyone finds one hook it up!!

 

You'll need to be careful shopping for a used engine harness. Over time, the injector connectors get super brittle and the plastic locking tabs often break when disturbed. I bought my engine without a harness and sourced one from eBay. 7 of the 8 locks were broken. I asked a dealer tech about this and he said they usually break when removed.

Luckily, I found a friend who had 8 connector shells that he was willing to donate toward repairing it. If needed, you can get the connectors in the aftermarket but it might cost you as much or more than the used harness itself. Don't even think about the Ford/Motorcraft connector repair kits because they are $30~40 EACH.

 

Yea Its gonna be tough. but I just keep searchin ebay everyday. gonna check the JY soon as i can. I can take on off without breakin stuff, just takes time but its worth it.

 

Found a Harness!! lol yea quick i know. Wonderful world of the internet. $120 to my door. guaranteed no cut or broken clips. Talked to the guy today, seems genuine. Only deals with trucks,vans, and suvs. its off a 99 mountaineer. Chaching!