14th sounds good for a start date

 

More work toinght!

my plugged n filled egr bolt



modified Throttle cable bracket


Moded Fuel Pressure Reg line, Egr plate



Headers and plug wires installed. I tried to hide and route the plug wires inside as much as i could



Sending out ECM tmw. It is a guy from HP Performance (always in MM & FF Mag) he does it on the side.

FINALLY got my U bolts in from Ballistc so plannin on changin out rearend on thurs or Fri.

Just keeps on Rolling... I like it

 

So instead of buying the egr headers, I shoulda maybe just get the non egr so I dont have to plug them if I wanted. what was the modding you needed to do to the FPR line?

 

Probably a good idea to get the non egr headers ya. The FPR line shared a vac line that went to the DPFE Sensor and since thats gone I just plugged the hole.

Pre warning. Most difficult bolts to ever tighten down on those headers.. no clearance for almost any tool on about 6 bolts

 

Bob, checked the box. found directions lol

So my fywheel and flexplate decided to grow legs and walk away becuase they are now where to be found. very frustrating. now i need to get those. ugh

Got the CORRECT alternator and ac compressor however

But i did get the WRONG u bolts from ballistic.. my fault i def measured wrong. dunno what i was thinkin.

 

yeah since I have no emissions anyways also. And Yeah I've been already spraying the bolts with pb blaster for like a week just to give me some sort of an edge on them hah

 

naw im talkkin about the bolts to actually bolt the TM headers on!! so hard to get to!

Got the 8.8 installed on Fri. its awesome. except i hace a terrible scrap noidce when i turn left. im guessin its the brake dust shield..

 

Andy, you might want to check with the Bob at TMH to find out if the headers will fit with a body lift. The clearance to the steering shaft could be a problem. Not sure.

 

I need the answer to a stupid question. how much gear oil for the 8.8?? im pretty sure i didnt put enough in. it it makes a nasty noice when i turn left. and since the ring and pinion set on the left im thinkin my momentum brings the oil over o the right and away from the gears. hence the metal on metal noise

 

Fill it up level with the bottom of the fill hole on the side of the diff housing.

 

well I will be ditching the body lift at the same time. So I will remove the shaft then put the headers on then take out the body lift and then put it back together. I think that should work out ok, or atleast it looks good on paper heh.
yeah like Bob said you just fill it till it starts barely coming out the fill hole.

 

well i just drove about 375 miles on the new 8.8 noise still happened. im thinkin its the dust shield rubbin .. Gas mileage is the same. do have more top end power in high gear. def tell he difference from 3.73 to 4.10

 

Weird, only on left turns it does it?

 

is there a l/s in the diff?

 

yea it doesnt do it anymore. i dunno it was only decent speed and turnin left. not like pullin into a parking spot or makin a uturn.... wierd gone for now. tho.

on to pics. i had to do it on friday night in about 2 hrs so i didnt really have time to take too many pics plus i was alont so no one else could do it lol

old axle out


new axle in

 

Lookin good man!

 

holy lift block. but it looks good

 

Another operation that's difficult is installing and tightening the 2 large flange nuts on top of the passenger side motor mount/plate when the engine is in position. Those nuts are right under the TMH and one is in front of the other, making it difficult to find a wrench with the right shape and enough swing and leverage to tighten each nut while clearing the other stud and the header. It is tedious work and hard to get them tight enough.

Here's the sequence that I am going to try next time:

• Install both Torque Monster headers to the engine
• Install both isolators to the frame
• Install and torque the passenger side (wide) engine plate to the PS isolator studs using 2 flange nuts
• Install and torque the driver side (narrow) plate to the engine block using 2 bolts
• Lower the engine in, keeping it safely supported with the DS plate in the correct location on the DS isolator studs
• Coming up from below, install and torque the 2 PS bolts through the engine plate into the block
• From above, install and torque the two DS nuts onto the DS isolator studs

I have not tried the above sequence yet but it should be better than installing both plates to the engine first and then dealing with the PS header clearance issue.

The Torque Monsters are the best off-the-shelf answer for 98+ 302 swaps but that doesn't mean that they're the easiest to install. There's a reason why the factory Ex 5.0 exhaust manifolds have those goofy shapes.

 

i guess thats tru. luckily i just final installed them outta the truck and just gonna drop in in all in one piece.

8.8 is running great. Disc brakes are a noticeable difference especially since im not running ABS.

I doubt too much progress will happen in the next 2 weeks. VERY BUSY for me. I should be able to get the trans all cleaned up and painted, ready for install. Idiot me found myt flywheel so thats a plus.

 

Yes, installing the headers out of the truck is the best way IMO. But if you do that AND then also install both engine plates on the block (like I did the first time), it makes installation of those 2 PS isolator nuts under the PS header very difficult. Take look at the engine with the PS engine plate held in position under the header and you'll see what I mean.

The guys that swap these headers into Explorers generally don't encounter the mount problem because they are usually retrofitting them to an engine that is already in place on the tightened mounts.

 

yea I need to pick up those bolts that moun the block plate to the block. I only have 3. retardes torched the other one off... Bob. do suggest attached the isolators to the block plates first then drop in the motor or put the isolators on the frame mount and the line up the plate on top?

ECM shipping back today. This guy is cool as hell and knows his stuff!

ECM Tune:

Removed Pats and EGR
changed spark/ fuel curve for B Cam
modified shift pressure and timing points.
Upped the WOT Shift point about 750 rpm.
and he said he did a few more tweeks.

Here are the screen shots. I can say that i for sure have no idea wats going on here lol

 

My idea is to do the two sides differently because the driver side is more or less wide open on top but the passenger side is very tight between the header and the engine plate.

From post 368 above:

 

Hey Mark if you dont mind me asking, what did he charge for the flash? I may be doing that in my future as well

 

275!!

 

well i confirmed that squeel was the limted slip. I need to pick up some of that lubracation additive stuff on the way home.