5.0L plans
Darn wish I saw your rocker issues earlier, I have a set of explorer stock rockers, and 1.7 crane roller rockers in my garage. I have heard of bad things with proform before, alot of mustang guys having trouble with them. I have a set of scorpion 1.6 roller rockers on my truck and they are great for the price. Good quality and nice and quiet.
aight so i stopped by the house yesterday pulled the other valve cover and got all the rocker arms taken off. I also did some searching around and i have found there is many people out there that had the same problem with them breaking in like 300 miles etc. rediculous.... sucks ***
Attention !!! i need help!!! SO here is the latest crap im dealing with...
no codes..
engine does not want to idle proper. it wants to stall sometimes and stay idle sometimes.
when I put it in gear to drive, reverse or drive. the engine loads and i have no power. It does drive.. not very good and seems like its misfiring.
pulled the plugs and the #5 cylinder was running super lean and the #7 was running super rich. all others were ok or little lean. those cylinders just stood out waayy more than others.
check compression on all cylinders and it was prefect. checked fuel pressure thats perfect, no vaccum leaks, even used a noid tester to check the harness at the fuel injector. Injectors are good..
My thoery is that the Cam position sensor is installed half right...the position is good as far as relative to the eninge (straight forward) but possiibly messed up and installed it with the cam NOT at TDC on compression stroke at #1 cylinder..
HELP!!!!!!!
no codes..
engine does not want to idle proper. it wants to stall sometimes and stay idle sometimes.
when I put it in gear to drive, reverse or drive. the engine loads and i have no power. It does drive.. not very good and seems like its misfiring.
pulled the plugs and the #5 cylinder was running super lean and the #7 was running super rich. all others were ok or little lean. those cylinders just stood out waayy more than others.
check compression on all cylinders and it was prefect. checked fuel pressure thats perfect, no vaccum leaks, even used a noid tester to check the harness at the fuel injector. Injectors are good..
My thoery is that the Cam position sensor is installed half right...the position is good as far as relative to the eninge (straight forward) but possiibly messed up and installed it with the cam NOT at TDC on compression stroke at #1 cylinder..
HELP!!!!!!!
Def check the Cam position sensor...I actually had a time with it aswell. I ended up taking off the coil packs an realigning the Cmp shaft twice before I got it just right. Then I ended having to replace the shaft a few days later because it was making an awful sound and didnt want anything to go wrong and lose Oil pressure an screw up my newly installed engine.. You will need the Handy tool that comes with a CMP shaft to properly align it....And I am unsure where you can buy the tool...Mine came with the new shaft. If you need the tool I can send mine to you. Just let me know.
The CMP/synchronizer assemblies are not interchangeable between 96~98 and 99~01. Each type also takes a different alignment tool.
Genuine Ford CMP alignment tool part numbers:
303-562 – 96~98 5.0L Explorer (3-wire Hall Effect)
303-630 – 99~01 5.0L Explorer (2-wire Variable Reluctance Sensor)
Equivalent OTC part numbers (OTC is the company that manufactures the Ford tools above):
6469 – 96~98 5.0L Explorer (3-wire HE)
6470 – 99~01 5.0L Explorer (2-wire VRS)
Genuine Ford CMP alignment tool part numbers:
303-562 – 96~98 5.0L Explorer (3-wire Hall Effect)
303-630 – 99~01 5.0L Explorer (2-wire Variable Reluctance Sensor)
Equivalent OTC part numbers (OTC is the company that manufactures the Ford tools above):
6469 – 96~98 5.0L Explorer (3-wire HE)
6470 – 99~01 5.0L Explorer (2-wire VRS)
Well I have the tool so thats good. However, After a few attempts at adjusting the CMP I had no luck yesterday. My bro-in-law said he was gonna work on it last night but i dunno if he did. Im headin over to work on it today and I hate to say it if I cant get it done today Im gonna have to bring it to a shop to someone who can. Luckily i know a few local people. It sucks and totally kills my confidence but I have no choice. I cant borrow Mal's dads truck for too much longer ya kno.
Alright turns out that my bro in law and neighbor (mechanic) messed with it for about 3 hrs last night and determined that what HAS to be incorrect and the only thing left that could be wrong is that Idiot me installed the new timing chain and sprockets incorrectly and that is throwing everything off! Yea its a pain in the *** but at least i can just pull the from accesories/water pump/ timing chain cover/ and readjust the chain and sprockets.. then put it all back together.. freakin sucks *** but beter than payin someone.
Hmm if the timing chain is installed improperly that would cause some funny issues but I would try and verify that is the case before I tear the front dress off the motor. I believe you can check by using a piston stop in the number 1 cylinder and see if it lines up with the timing marks. You could even use a degree wheel in order to verify that cylinder number one is having the correct events at the correct time. Just thinking trying to help you be positive thats the problem before you tear the motor apart.
Unfortunately, i think that tearing everything down is the next stop. We have tried everything else and checked everything else and its all correct. still No codes so it has to be mechanical... ugh
Alright turns out that my bro in law and neighbor (mechanic) messed with it for about 3 hrs last night and determined that what HAS to be incorrect and the only thing left that could be wrong is that Idiot me installed the new timing chain and sprockets incorrectly and that is throwing everything off!
That is the final install.. yes it does look right... heres where i think it could be wrong. when i install the new chain, I might have not done it with the engine at TDC on cylinder 1...
ONE main thing both me and my broinlaw discovered was that when adjusting the cam position sensor correctly with #1 at TDC. the CMP would NOT line up with the Front of the engine. it would either end up slightly to the left or the right of the centerline. There for the sprockets and chains must be off. Even a little off can throw everything off.
From the final adjustment my bro-in-law made last night. I drove it this afternoon and it was by far the best yet...however, still engine would load up before kicking in and would still sputter down the road (sound obviously not normal operating).
So today I got a bunch everything outta the way and timing cover unbolsted but not removed.. gotta undoa few more oil pan bolts first... back to work tmw afternoon! YAY....not lol
ONE main thing both me and my broinlaw discovered was that when adjusting the cam position sensor correctly with #1 at TDC. the CMP would NOT line up with the Front of the engine. it would either end up slightly to the left or the right of the centerline. There for the sprockets and chains must be off. Even a little off can throw everything off.
From the final adjustment my bro-in-law made last night. I drove it this afternoon and it was by far the best yet...however, still engine would load up before kicking in and would still sputter down the road (sound obviously not normal operating).
So today I got a bunch everything outta the way and timing cover unbolsted but not removed.. gotta undoa few more oil pan bolts first... back to work tmw afternoon! YAY....not lol
If the keyways in the factory sprockets are lined up like they are in your picture, then the relationship between the crank and cam is correct. A tooth off would be very obvious.
With #1 at TDC at the end of the compression stroke, the alignment tool will correctly index the timing of the CMP/Synchronizer to the camshaft. Once that is set up and locked down, it is all that matters.
In reality, the timing of the Cam Position Sensor is not as critical as the timing of something like a conventional distributor. Basically, all the CMP is doing is telling the PCM which revolution the engine is on, intake/compression or power/exhaust, so it can sync up the injectors to the correct stroke. The exact timing of the spark and injection events is calculated by the PCM based on input from the Crank Position Sensor, not the CMP. The CKP picks up pulses at 10 degree intervals of crank rotation compared to 720 degrees (2 crank revolutions) for the CMP.
With #1 at TDC at the end of the compression stroke, the alignment tool will correctly index the timing of the CMP/Synchronizer to the camshaft. Once that is set up and locked down, it is all that matters.
In reality, the timing of the Cam Position Sensor is not as critical as the timing of something like a conventional distributor. Basically, all the CMP is doing is telling the PCM which revolution the engine is on, intake/compression or power/exhaust, so it can sync up the injectors to the correct stroke. The exact timing of the spark and injection events is calculated by the PCM based on input from the Crank Position Sensor, not the CMP. The CKP picks up pulses at 10 degree intervals of crank rotation compared to 720 degrees (2 crank revolutions) for the CMP.
I went thru the same BS with my swap...Like I mentioned before I realigned the Cmp several times...In the end I ended up going thru 5 MAF sensors and low and behold it fixed all my issues...I am not saying this is your issue.... but its something to look at..becasue it sounds like the same issues I went thru..Loading up and not running right..with ZERO codes.... and like Bob said the timing chain looks correct.
