I know this is probably a "to easy to be true" idea. Since the Explorer speedometer gets signal from the abs/vss from the rear axle, and I have the explorer 8.8 installed, can i just run my own wires directly from the sensor in the rear axle to the harness??

 

The wires are already in the harness from the rear axle sensor to the Ranger 4WABS Module. The problem is that you need a conversion module to correct the raw axle signal for use by the speedometer. In your 2002, that was originally done by the Ranger PCM using the raw signal from the transmission sensor, both of which are now gone. In the Explorer, the conversion was done by the 4WABS Module which is different from the Ranger's 01+ 4WABS Module.

There should be several ways to make the speedometer work in a 2001~2003 Ranger Ex 5.0 swap. Here are 3 methods that been used successfully:

• Transplant a 99~01 Explorer 4WABS Module and acceleration sensor into the Ranger. Repinning and added wiring required. Connect the VSS output of the Ex module to the speedometer circuit. Requires dealer tool to calibrate.
• Use a GEM from a 2001 2.5 as a standalone speedo conversion module. Branch a pair of wires off of the rear ABS wires to feed the raw VSS as input to the GEM. Wire power and ground to the GEM and output to the speedometer circuit. Requires dealer tool and extra wiring to calibrate.
• Use an aftermarket speedometer conversion module and branch a wire off of the rear ABS wire to feed the raw VSS as input. Wire power and ground to the module and connect its output to the speedometer circuit. Field calibratable using dipswitches or similar.

Of these, the aftermarket conversion module should be the easiest and might also be the cheapest.

 

Post # 1025… Mark did you ever think the Thread would be this long…

Bob,
You are F’g amazing; the info you put out is incredible and so helpful… you must have been a FORD Engineer forever.
I for one will say thanks for being on this site and being the person you are, willing to share; your mother taught you well.

 

I figured it was to easy to be true. Sounds like the Superlift speedo calibrater is by far going to be the easiest and cheapest route.

 

im gettin a 5.0 trans and rear end from an old foxbody mustang and need some info on swappin my 2.9 with the 5.0. i heard that there are step-by-step instructions on the internet but i cant find them and thats the kind of thing i need cause i dont know harly anything about full swaps like this.

 

Use a 8.8 from an Explorer, 31 spline and usually posi…

As far as the swap, easy compared to the late models.

Buy an adapter package, my fav is L&L Products (http://www.landlproducts.com/list.as...cID=2&scID=107) but they are pricey, there is Advanced Adapters and there are some on Craig’s List and E-Bay but the used ones may not have all that is needed.
Once the adapters are here it is a bolt in.
Auto is easiest but manual can be done, L&L has both kits ($$$).
If carb’d engine then easy wiring; if EFI then you need the harness out of the vehicle that the engine came from and get the VIN with it for computer adjustments.

All it take is time and patients...

 

Well i believe i have officially found the problem with my truck. And id all reverts to the B-cam. Nice little note on www.fordracing.com about the B cam;
" On EFI engines, performance camshafts work only with mass air induction systems. Will not work with Explorer EEC-V EFI."

Freakin AWESOME. so looks like i will be swapping back to the Stock explorer camshaft here shortly. thats gonna be a pain in the *** to get that cam out witout pullin the motor. take off whole front end basically. radiator ac condensor, core support ( might cut a hole haha)

 

Sounds like that could be it, hopefully it is.

i have a problem with my 5.0 that sucks too, leaking main rear seal :( either pull the motor or drop out the tcase/tranny to get at it.

 

I mentioned this FRPP warning several pages back. However, didn't you get a performance tune that should have taken care of it?

 

Are you sure that it's coming from the main seal? I had a drip from the bottom edge of the bell housing that I thought was a main seal but it was actually leaking all the way down from the PCV valve hole in the rear of the lower intake. The rubber grommet that is supposed to retain the PCV valve in the manifold hardens with age and can let it pop out. Worth a look before starting major disassembly.

 

Yep, almost impossible with the radiator support in place.
I’m with Bob, I would think a Computer Tune is all that is needed.
I would think you could put a Cam in an Explorer too.


Double check the Valve Covers too, if too tight the gasket will squash and move.
Stamp Steel Covers are the worst but the aluminum will if you really tightened them.

 

not to crowd up marks thread, but yeah i've checked everything out i can on it, i've had some guys take a look at it too, problem is, i didn't notice it, because it was really small and it dripped onto the cat right underneith the motor, so it was burnt off, but now its enough to make a spot on the driveway so i have to get it fixed.

 

Bob I have the same leak you did! I'm going to check the Pcv hole too, with the spacer I had to put in an extension. I've been thinkin it was the rear main seal the whole time. I did have it custom tuned but I think I got taken. Actually I'm pretty sure I did. Oh well hell get his one day. Im torn between having it retuned and just pitting the cam back in. It's really not that hard with a buddy and some beers. Where I am torn is the drivability and gas mileage. 13 mpg ain't cuttin it. It screams 75 mph. I'm at like 2500rpm I should be around 2200, 2300 tops. And since I drive on the highway about 85% of the time.
And I'm tired of the lope. And starting my truck and having to wait for it to learn and settle. If I rev too high and let it fall it stalls out. So maybe more stock ish would be better.

 

Wirelessly posted

Darn I hate to jack the thread too, but I was thinking my rear main was leaking and I went back and checked and its coming out of the darn back of the Valve covers! I used those stinking cork gaskets.

 

i used the cork gaskets too!! haha ill check that stuff out later tho. im in for the night lol

 

I like the stock reusable Explorer gaskets - rubber bonded on steel. Unfortunately, they are not compatible with many accessory valve covers. I modded my cast aluminum Cobra covers by trimming the lip off so they work with the Explorer gaskets.

 

Yep I bought some of the trick flow steel core gaskets & stud kit for $42 dollars friday and ripped off the intake and replaced mine today....the cork gaskets were leaking badly. I highly recommend swapping out the cork Mark. It was leaking right on my converter and boy did it stink!

 

In a few weeks I'm goin to swp cams and I'll replace the valve cover gaskets then for sure. Might take out the intake spacer too but I doubt it. Unfortunately I checked my garage and it seems that my explorer can grew legs and walked away so that blows. Looks like I'll be pullin one from the JY next weekend. Fun fun fun. But I'll prolly get an Evan from a taurus or crown Vic then too and get rid of the crappy steel mechanical fan. Kinda tryin to kill a bunch of birds with one stone.

On another note, I have been looking all over the place for a 2.5 gem and I can't find one anywhere. And I'm not about to buy it from ford. I can't imagine how much they would want for something like that.

 

Before I took the time to swap the cam I would get a retune, maybe even from the same guy if free; as I said before, Explorer’s can get an Hi-Po-Cams too.

13 mpg, I guess that is a PITA… but I do not believe an Explorer Cam is going to help that much.
The idea of the engine screaming around 75 could be partly because of the cam, I don’t know the B-Cam Specs so I am guessing here. If the B-Cam is a performance cam it may need RPMs to work and along with the Explorer Computer it might need the extra RPMs to clean itself out and run strong; what that tells me is Fuel/Air/Spark problems on the low end.
Again just me guessing and talking through my a$$.
What I am saying is try another tuning of the computer before giving up and pulling the cam.
And performance cams require more gas so if you end up with 16 to 18 mpg I think you will be doing well.

Cork Gaskets just need some Hy-Tach Spray Sealer, spray, let set, light spray a little before install, DON’T torque too much - use the specs, let set and it should work; worked on the old Harley Leaks and those were always a problem.
Maybe an aftermarket gasket with Hy-Tach is the answer.


Good luck on what ever track you take, seems like a PITA but IT WILL BE WORTH IT !

ltr

 

FINALLY UPDATE!!!!!!

it has taken a year but i finally think the truck is 100%. got my but down to Blow By Racing and got everything fixed. Retuned completely using SCT tuner ( which will be for sale once we make all final tweaks). Chris Jones hooked me up like none other. Anyway, drivability is a huuuuge difference. talkin night and day. much smoother, took the idle down to around 785-800, sounds sick. no more richness, no more smell, and of course since its not flooding itself its much smoother and responsive when accelerating. like i said its an unbelieveable difference. i am finally happy with this thing actually after a year of tinkering im excstatic.

 

Good to hear you got it worked out !

 

thats great to hear

 

That's awesome!

Time for a new video.

 

leavin today for TN till sun. next week ill get a few shot. driving, idle, etc.

 

sweet man, ill have to check out the truck sometime, id love to v8 swap mine aswell. pics forsure! and plenty of them