5.0L plans
Check around for another ECM off Ebay or at the Junk Yard...and before you get it tuned I would see how it runs.....only codes it would throw is the Egr. Thats the only codes I have....that would eliminate any doubt with the ECM.
i had a theory and kyle sparked on it with the wiring. I have a bad ground connection at my terminal post. sucks. always have to adjust it.after drivin from DV8 to abacoa (like 8 miles) was parked for like 5 minutes with it running and it just died. no life. no power nothing. pop the hood. bang on the negative termial clamp few times. truck starts up. So theory is i need to check the ground wiring and or replace it with new. maybe it is voltage spikes and intermittin reads from diff sensor thats causing the promlem ... damn this thing
i had a theory and kyle sparked on it with the wiring. I have a bad ground connection at my terminal post. sucks. always have to adjust it.after drivin from DV8 to abacoa (like 8 miles) was parked for like 5 minutes with it running and it just died. no life. no power nothing. pop the hood. bang on the negative termial clamp few times. truck starts up. So theory is i need to check the ground wiring and or replace it with new. maybe it is voltage spikes and intermittin reads from diff sensor thats causing the promlem ... damn this thing
Dude, no frickin **** huh. damn. That's crazy. Well i had a a problem similar to that. Before you waste 3 hours going over all your ground points, just try pulling off your terminal connectors, clean them well with a wire brush, and then put them back on. See if that fixes it. The mazda would still do it once in a blue moon after i did that but it wasnt enough to make me go by new terminal connectors.
no popping fuses. If there is an issue it is going to be the ground connection directly at the battery, Possibly vibrating loose and making an inconsistant contact. I and going to try replacing the terminal. POS ones never work out. well see. And yet this morning she ran great and idled great at each redlight, drove 30 miles on i95 got off ran and idled great at every redlight and here i am now at work. ugh
So get this. Truck is running pretty good today. drove home from work. offramp line is backed up to the highway. so it takes about 10-15 minutes or so of nice smooth idle, right as i get at top of the off ramp truck starts to suck. idle drops to like 500 rpm, oil and voltage gauge needle goin nuts. gotta hold brake can give it gas to idle smooth. finally get off drive it to next redlight. does same thing. luckily no more redlights till i get hom, pull in my space and truck stalls out before putting in park. start her, dies. again, give a lil gas, dies. again, give a lil more gas try to and level out rpms, dies. pop hood unplugg IAC, start with it unplugged, imediatly died. ok good to know. plug back it. start, lil gas dies. start lil more gass, level it out, stays running... doesnt stall. I hate this thing right now. as much as i love my truck i hate it.
Ground seems fine for now. I got the injectors and rails from Bob and they were all good. pump and filter were working great in the truck before swap. What i cant understand is why the problem is irratic. example. drove the truck to work this morning, everyhting was fine. ran great idled great no issues. we will see what she does later today. also seems i am back to eating gas. gonna check to see what codes we got this afternoon. im fixin to just replace every other damn sensor. IAC and O2's that way everything is fresh and brand new. i just think if it were a mechanical problem it would be constant everytime not irratic. also, for some reason my rockers arms are LOUD!!! i mean i hear them in the cab driving down the road. and stick your head in the wheel well with the truck on and its like the covers are off. I have checked them and they havent backked off and arent loose so theres another mystery.
Idk. Do you know any mechanics that would look at all your concerns for you?
If so that's would i would do. The last thing you wanna do is mess this thing up after the long process of putting it all together.
If so that's would i would do. The last thing you wanna do is mess this thing up after the long process of putting it all together.
yea still running 3.0 0'2s. Seems like everytime i have swapped a sensor it gets better. firs tthe MAF then the TPS. cleaning the IAC made it bettter too. My gut tells me sensor related, if i was mechanical the problem would be 100% constant. Also, swapped out to led bulbs pre engine swap. Now, when on, some of them flicker randomly. going to swap back in stock style bulbs and see if they still flicker. if so i know there an eletrical gremlin somewhere.
mark i really think it will be in the 02's. when you first start it up it is on the cold map, once it warms up it switches to a differnt map. seems like when it warms up is when your getting more issues. i would swap to the 4.0 ones (or 5.0s but i thought they were the same).
Ya I have been down this same road.........I never could pin point any particular sensor....I just replaced all of them with new ones!!! I mean hell, I had already spent a fortune anyways!
Just out of curiosity…
How is the engine grounded to the frame/battery ?
Is the alternator grounded, body of alternator to engine block/frame/battery ?
Is there a ground from the body to the engine/frame/battery ?
How is the engine grounded to the frame/battery ?
Is the alternator grounded, body of alternator to engine block/frame/battery ?
Is there a ground from the body to the engine/frame/battery ?
Grev. I used the stock wiring for everything. Ill have to double check and make sure everyhting is tight. IDK I am leaning on bad IAC. when i cleaned it out really good it ran a lot better. So prolly get a new one and test that. well see
Even if all works out wit the IAC consider the grounding system overall and make sure the body/engine/frame and battery are all connected with cable.
Good Luck, nice looking truck and nice lady that Mel.
I am following your Thread but sorry I can’t add more to it.




