Recommend an amp wiring kit - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 08-04-2010
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Originally Posted by buggman View Post
I'd definitely go with 1/0ga wire from the battery (fused within 12" of the battery) through the firewall to near where your amp(s) will be mounted.
From there, use a fused distribution block to split off with 4ga for your amp, and you'll always have room for add-ons. The fused distribution block kills 2 birds.... distribution & fuses all in one.

The 1/0ga wiring & terminals won't be that much more than 0ga, but it'll save you more work in the future... ie you won't need to run a 0ga wire later if you just use a 4ga to start.

Also make sure you pick up a good firewall grommet (heavy plastic 2 piece units are the best).

I never buy those kits, they never have the configuration I want.

I got my 1/0ga from Knukonceptz (or however it's spelled) from their ebay listings...something like $1.50 a foot for 1/0ga back then.

Don't forget to upgrade the ground cables (with whatever gauge power wire you use) from the battery to body, body to frame & frame to block. Grounds are just as important as the power.
yes the BIG 3, that will help also. best to us 1/0 for that. except its batt+ to alt, batt- to frame and block to frame:)
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  #27  
Old 08-04-2010
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Originally Posted by 01RangerEdge View Post
Is there a specific place I should get one of their kits from?
KnuKonceptz.com the best place to order from
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  #28  
Old 08-05-2010
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yes the BIG 3, that will help also. best to us 1/0 for that. except its batt+ to alt, batt- to frame and block to frame:)
...yeah, what he said...
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  #29  
Old 08-05-2010
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here's the thing about the cheap scosche wiring from walmart and the other low end wiring... you need to make sure the actual strand count of the wire is adequate for the wattage of the amp. ive purchased cheap off brand 4 gauge wire and if you compared it to say a rockford or a kicker 4 gauge wire the off brand had almost half of the actual metal that makes up the wire.. the rest was the rubber casing of the wire... so please be careful and dont go buy a cheap wire thinking you are getting enough metal when you aren't, ya know what i mean?
Wise words..

Pay attention to whether or not is pure copper or CCA. Copper clad aluminum has something like 50% less current capacity then pure copper. 1/0 of CCA is more like 4ga of pure copper.

CCA wire is more for looks and bragging rights then actual current capacity. Knuconcepts is guilty of selling the same crap too. so just pay attention.

the whole big three thing is grossly over rated imo. if anything you only need to upgrade the chassis to battery ground wire. thats it, unless you bought a aftermarket HO alt, the original wire is just fine the stereo pulls current from the battery not the alternator, the alternator won't output anymore then it already does anyways.
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  #30  
Old 08-05-2010
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You really don't even need the Big 3 with the system you'll be running. I have it on my truck but I can't tell much of a difference from when I didn't have it.
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  #31  
Old 08-05-2010
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I got this Car Audio Wire

Thanks to the Answer for the link

I do appreciate all the comments and suggestions.

When I do my next set of upgrades, I will looking at the big 3, but right now I don't think I need them. But I will for sure check all my grounds and such
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  #32  
Old 08-05-2010
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for what you want 4ga wire will be fine. 0ga is way overkill for 90% of systems the AVERAGE person puts in their vehicles... nut of course it wont hurt either. the hardest part is finding a good way to route 0ga wire cause its pretty beefy
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  #33  
Old 08-05-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01RangerEdge View Post
I got this Car Audio Wire

Thanks to the Answer for the link

I do appreciate all the comments and suggestions.

When I do my next set of upgrades, I will looking at the big 3, but right now I don't think I need them. But I will for sure check all my grounds and such
you wont need to do the big 3. you will be ok unless you want to run a huge amp
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  #34  
Old 08-05-2010
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Originally Posted by ranger4.0 View Post
you wont need to do the big 3. you will be ok unless you want to run a huge amp
Alright, when it comes time to upgrade the sub and it's amp, I will look into it
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  #35  
Old 08-05-2010
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good choice on the amp kit.
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  #36  
Old 08-05-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangOH View Post
Wise words..

Pay attention to whether or not is pure copper or CCA. Copper clad aluminum has something like 50% less current capacity then pure copper. 1/0 of CCA is more like 4ga of pure copper.

CCA wire is more for looks and bragging rights then actual current capacity. Knuconcepts is guilty of selling the same crap too. so just pay attention.

the whole big three thing is grossly over rated imo. if anything you only need to upgrade the chassis to battery ground wire. thats it, unless you bought a aftermarket HO alt, the original wire is just fine the stereo pulls current from the battery not the alternator, the alternator won't output anymore then it already does anyways.
KNU CCA is good, if u want 2000rms and down its great but i wouldnt use it for more than 2000rms.

the most important one is the alt to batt, it lets more current travel to the batt faster than stock will. and the BIG 3 is not overrated, u are probably one of those that thinks capacitors are good.
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  #37  
Old 08-05-2010
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Originally Posted by the Answer View Post
KNU CCA is good, if u want 2000rms and down its great but i wouldnt use it for more than 2000rms.

the most important one is the alt to batt, it lets more current travel to the batt faster than stock will. and the BIG 3 is not overrated, u are probably one of those that thinks capacitors are good.
lol i used to think caps were good... not till i learned a lil bout them
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  #38  
Old 08-05-2010
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the most important one is the alt to batt, it lets more current travel to the batt faster than stock will
The battery is going to charge at the same rate as it would with the factory wire.. you can't magicly increase the output of the alt by connecting another wire.

Quote:
and the BIG 3 is not overrated, u are probably one of those that thinks capacitors are good.
Ill be the first to tell you caps are a bad idea. Increases the load on the electrical system and does not provide enough current for long enough to have any use the system.

Quote:
KNU CCA is good, if u want 2000rms and down its great but i wouldnt use it for more than 2000rms.
your probably one of those that thinks cca is good. Why buy HUGE bulky wire when you can buy small quality wire that does the same thing? Just so you can say "I have 1/0 wire" thats so cool.
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  #39  
Old 08-05-2010
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lol i used to think caps were good... not till i learned a lil bout them
I remember when I use to think the big three was good, till i learned more...and actually thought about it.
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  #40  
Old 08-05-2010
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big three can absolutely help. remember it has nothing to do with voltage and everything with amperage. factory alternators charge at 95 amps, thats the minimum they should charge at. when the load is increased the system is demanding more amperage which is drawn straight from the alternator. larger wire provides an easier path for power to move. the biggest reason the alt to bat wire is so important to have larger is for heat. heat means resistance and thats no good for amp draw
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  #41  
Old 08-05-2010
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I don't think that your taking into account that an alternator cannot increase its output beyond what its built for. a 95 amp alt can only output 95 amps.

the stereo does not pull from the alternator at all...
it pulls from the 500+ amp low resistance battery
not the weak 95 amp alt.

the alternator just recharges the battery. the factory cable is already sized for that.
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  #42  
Old 08-05-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishy2k8 View Post
here's the thing about the cheap scosche wiring from walmart and the other low end wiring... you need to make sure the actual strand count of the wire is adequate for the wattage of the amp. ive purchased cheap off brand 4 gauge wire and if you compared it to say a rockford or a kicker 4 gauge wire the off brand had almost half of the actual metal that makes up the wire.. the rest was the rubber casing of the wire... so please be careful and dont go buy a cheap wire thinking you are getting enough metal when you aren't, ya know what i mean?
True that, had kicker 0 gauge run in my 77 lincoln, that stuff was niiiiice. and its really flexible, could tie it in knots around a pencil and stuff. Spend the extra bucks and get good wire. kicker wire is good, and the upper end scosche kits are also very good.
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  #43  
Old 08-05-2010
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I have Stinger 0g in my truck and it's really nice. Pretty high strand count too.
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  #44  
Old 08-06-2010
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Originally Posted by RangOH View Post
I don't think that your taking into account that an alternator cannot increase its output beyond what its built for. a 95 amp alt can only output 95 amps.

the stereo does not pull from the alternator at all...
it pulls from the 500+ amp low resistance battery
not the weak 95 amp alt.

the alternator just recharges the battery. the factory cable is already sized for that.
useing 1/0 allows more current to flow and recharge the batt faster, that is the point.
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  #45  
Old 08-06-2010
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the factory alternator cable is already sized large enough to provide maximum charging. get my point?

if you have a higher output alt, only then you do need to upgrade the wire to the alt.
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  #46  
Old 08-06-2010
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the factory alt does not put out 95 amps if rated at 95 amps. that is the minimum out put that alt should be putting out at a specified load. so in fact yes, the alt will put out much more than 95amps and much more than what the stock vehicle will call for. the whole point in the big three with 1/0ga wire from the alt to the battery is to increase electrical "flow" to help keep up with the demands of the system
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  #47  
Old 08-06-2010
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even so... the factory wire would be sized to accommodate for that.

the only way i can see somebody gaining any audible change would be from the cleaning and re-tigtening of corroded ground connections.

The voltage drop in a 4ga wire at 4ft is like .001 if you added a 1/0 to the existing cable you would be at a less of a drop like .00001. you would never notice a .5volt drop let alone .0010 volt that might equate to a whole 1-2 watts if your lucky on a good day..
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  #48  
Old 08-06-2010
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all the big three does is make the electrical system more efficient. the electrical system is great for a STOCK truck. when you throw in an amp and sub you are drawing more power. a stock truck at peak demand ma only need 120 amps but that same truck with an amp may demand 150 or more. the stock electrical system was not designed for anything extra the consumer may want to put in... hence the reason to upgrade the wiring
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  #49  
Old 08-06-2010
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your not understanding me.

the amplifiers only want to draw from a low resistance high amp source. Right?

now which will provide more Amps at a lower resistance,
a 550+amp battery or a 95+ amp Alternator?

The battery, correct?
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  #50  
Old 08-06-2010
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see what you dont understand is a fully charged battery is only 12.6 volts. an alternator charges at 14 something. so i ask you this. when the truck is running where is the power coming from? the alt or the battery?


answer: alternator! the power may go to the battery first but it is not providing anything more than a pathway for the electrical energy to go from the alt to the amp



and your 550 amp battery is the cold cranking amps. which the battery only has while fully charged. this does not mean your battery always has 550 amps to dispense of
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