Recommend an amp wiring kit
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 363
Likes: 1
From: Webster, Fl.
I'd definitely go with 1/0ga wire from the battery (fused within 12" of the battery) through the firewall to near where your amp(s) will be mounted.
From there, use a fused distribution block to split off with 4ga for your amp, and you'll always have room for add-ons. The fused distribution block kills 2 birds.... distribution & fuses all in one.
The 1/0ga wiring & terminals won't be that much more than 0ga, but it'll save you more work in the future... ie you won't need to run a 0ga wire later if you just use a 4ga to start.
Also make sure you pick up a good firewall grommet (heavy plastic 2 piece units are the best).
I never buy those kits, they never have the configuration I want.
I got my 1/0ga from Knukonceptz (or however it's spelled) from their ebay listings...something like $1.50 a foot for 1/0ga back then.
Don't forget to upgrade the ground cables (with whatever gauge power wire you use) from the battery to body, body to frame & frame to block. Grounds are just as important as the power.
From there, use a fused distribution block to split off with 4ga for your amp, and you'll always have room for add-ons. The fused distribution block kills 2 birds.... distribution & fuses all in one.
The 1/0ga wiring & terminals won't be that much more than 0ga, but it'll save you more work in the future... ie you won't need to run a 0ga wire later if you just use a 4ga to start.
Also make sure you pick up a good firewall grommet (heavy plastic 2 piece units are the best).
I never buy those kits, they never have the configuration I want.
I got my 1/0ga from Knukonceptz (or however it's spelled) from their ebay listings...something like $1.50 a foot for 1/0ga back then.
Don't forget to upgrade the ground cables (with whatever gauge power wire you use) from the battery to body, body to frame & frame to block. Grounds are just as important as the power.
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: Madison, Ohio
here's the thing about the cheap scosche wiring from walmart and the other low end wiring... you need to make sure the actual strand count of the wire is adequate for the wattage of the amp. ive purchased cheap off brand 4 gauge wire and if you compared it to say a rockford or a kicker 4 gauge wire the off brand had almost half of the actual metal that makes up the wire.. the rest was the rubber casing of the wire... so please be careful and dont go buy a cheap wire thinking you are getting enough metal when you aren't, ya know what i mean?
Pay attention to whether or not is pure copper or CCA. Copper clad aluminum has something like 50% less current capacity then pure copper. 1/0 of CCA is more like 4ga of pure copper.
CCA wire is more for looks and bragging rights then actual current capacity. Knuconcepts is guilty of selling the same crap too. so just pay attention.
the whole big three thing is grossly over rated imo. if anything you only need to upgrade the chassis to battery ground wire. thats it, unless you bought a aftermarket HO alt, the original wire is just fine the stereo pulls current from the battery not the alternator, the alternator won't output anymore then it already does anyways.
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,579
Likes: 5
From: Jackson, MO
I got this Car Audio Wire
Thanks to the Answer for the link
I do appreciate all the comments and suggestions.
When I do my next set of upgrades, I will looking at the big 3, but right now I don't think I need them. But I will for sure check all my grounds and such
Thanks to the Answer for the link
I do appreciate all the comments and suggestions.
When I do my next set of upgrades, I will looking at the big 3, but right now I don't think I need them. But I will for sure check all my grounds and such
for what you want 4ga wire will be fine. 0ga is way overkill for 90% of systems the AVERAGE person puts in their vehicles... nut of course it wont hurt either. the hardest part is finding a good way to route 0ga wire cause its pretty beefy
I got this Car Audio Wire
Thanks to the Answer for the link
I do appreciate all the comments and suggestions.
When I do my next set of upgrades, I will looking at the big 3, but right now I don't think I need them. But I will for sure check all my grounds and such
Thanks to the Answer for the link
I do appreciate all the comments and suggestions.
When I do my next set of upgrades, I will looking at the big 3, but right now I don't think I need them. But I will for sure check all my grounds and such
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,579
Likes: 5
From: Jackson, MO
Alright, when it comes time to upgrade the sub and it's amp, I will look into it
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 363
Likes: 1
From: Webster, Fl.
Wise words..
Pay attention to whether or not is pure copper or CCA. Copper clad aluminum has something like 50% less current capacity then pure copper. 1/0 of CCA is more like 4ga of pure copper.
CCA wire is more for looks and bragging rights then actual current capacity. Knuconcepts is guilty of selling the same crap too. so just pay attention.
the whole big three thing is grossly over rated imo. if anything you only need to upgrade the chassis to battery ground wire. thats it, unless you bought a aftermarket HO alt, the original wire is just fine the stereo pulls current from the battery not the alternator, the alternator won't output anymore then it already does anyways.
Pay attention to whether or not is pure copper or CCA. Copper clad aluminum has something like 50% less current capacity then pure copper. 1/0 of CCA is more like 4ga of pure copper.
CCA wire is more for looks and bragging rights then actual current capacity. Knuconcepts is guilty of selling the same crap too. so just pay attention.
the whole big three thing is grossly over rated imo. if anything you only need to upgrade the chassis to battery ground wire. thats it, unless you bought a aftermarket HO alt, the original wire is just fine the stereo pulls current from the battery not the alternator, the alternator won't output anymore then it already does anyways.
the most important one is the alt to batt, it lets more current travel to the batt faster than stock will. and the BIG 3 is not overrated, u are probably one of those that thinks capacitors are good.
KNU CCA is good, if u want 2000rms and down its great but i wouldnt use it for more than 2000rms.
the most important one is the alt to batt, it lets more current travel to the batt faster than stock will. and the BIG 3 is not overrated, u are probably one of those that thinks capacitors are good.
the most important one is the alt to batt, it lets more current travel to the batt faster than stock will. and the BIG 3 is not overrated, u are probably one of those that thinks capacitors are good.
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: Madison, Ohio
the most important one is the alt to batt, it lets more current travel to the batt faster than stock will
and the BIG 3 is not overrated, u are probably one of those that thinks capacitors are good.
KNU CCA is good, if u want 2000rms and down its great but i wouldnt use it for more than 2000rms.
big three can absolutely help. remember it has nothing to do with voltage and everything with amperage. factory alternators charge at 95 amps, thats the minimum they should charge at. when the load is increased the system is demanding more amperage which is drawn straight from the alternator. larger wire provides an easier path for power to move. the biggest reason the alt to bat wire is so important to have larger is for heat. heat means resistance and thats no good for amp draw
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: Madison, Ohio
I don't think that your taking into account that an alternator cannot increase its output beyond what its built for. a 95 amp alt can only output 95 amps.
the stereo does not pull from the alternator at all...
it pulls from the 500+ amp low resistance battery
not the weak 95 amp alt.
the alternator just recharges the battery. the factory cable is already sized for that.
the stereo does not pull from the alternator at all...
it pulls from the 500+ amp low resistance battery
not the weak 95 amp alt.
the alternator just recharges the battery. the factory cable is already sized for that.
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 133
Likes: 1
From: Pembroke Pines, FL
here's the thing about the cheap scosche wiring from walmart and the other low end wiring... you need to make sure the actual strand count of the wire is adequate for the wattage of the amp. ive purchased cheap off brand 4 gauge wire and if you compared it to say a rockford or a kicker 4 gauge wire the off brand had almost half of the actual metal that makes up the wire.. the rest was the rubber casing of the wire... so please be careful and dont go buy a cheap wire thinking you are getting enough metal when you aren't, ya know what i mean?
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 363
Likes: 1
From: Webster, Fl.
I don't think that your taking into account that an alternator cannot increase its output beyond what its built for. a 95 amp alt can only output 95 amps.
the stereo does not pull from the alternator at all...
it pulls from the 500+ amp low resistance battery
not the weak 95 amp alt.
the alternator just recharges the battery. the factory cable is already sized for that.
the stereo does not pull from the alternator at all...
it pulls from the 500+ amp low resistance battery
not the weak 95 amp alt.
the alternator just recharges the battery. the factory cable is already sized for that.
the factory alt does not put out 95 amps if rated at 95 amps. that is the minimum out put that alt should be putting out at a specified load. so in fact yes, the alt will put out much more than 95amps and much more than what the stock vehicle will call for. the whole point in the big three with 1/0ga wire from the alt to the battery is to increase electrical "flow" to help keep up with the demands of the system
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: Madison, Ohio
even so... the factory wire would be sized to accommodate for that.
the only way i can see somebody gaining any audible change would be from the cleaning and re-tigtening of corroded ground connections.
The voltage drop in a 4ga wire at 4ft is like .001 if you added a 1/0 to the existing cable you would be at a less of a drop like .00001. you would never notice a .5volt drop let alone .0010 volt that might equate to a whole 1-2 watts if your lucky on a good day..
the only way i can see somebody gaining any audible change would be from the cleaning and re-tigtening of corroded ground connections.
The voltage drop in a 4ga wire at 4ft is like .001 if you added a 1/0 to the existing cable you would be at a less of a drop like .00001. you would never notice a .5volt drop let alone .0010 volt that might equate to a whole 1-2 watts if your lucky on a good day..
all the big three does is make the electrical system more efficient. the electrical system is great for a STOCK truck. when you throw in an amp and sub you are drawing more power. a stock truck at peak demand ma only need 120 amps but that same truck with an amp may demand 150 or more. the stock electrical system was not designed for anything extra the consumer may want to put in... hence the reason to upgrade the wiring
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: Madison, Ohio
your not understanding me.
the amplifiers only want to draw from a low resistance high amp source. Right?
now which will provide more Amps at a lower resistance,
a 550+amp battery or a 95+ amp Alternator?
The battery, correct?
the amplifiers only want to draw from a low resistance high amp source. Right?
now which will provide more Amps at a lower resistance,
a 550+amp battery or a 95+ amp Alternator?
The battery, correct?
see what you dont understand is a fully charged battery is only 12.6 volts. an alternator charges at 14 something. so i ask you this. when the truck is running where is the power coming from? the alt or the battery?
answer: alternator! the power may go to the battery first but it is not providing anything more than a pathway for the electrical energy to go from the alt to the amp
and your 550 amp battery is the cold cranking amps. which the battery only has while fully charged. this does not mean your battery always has 550 amps to dispense of
answer: alternator! the power may go to the battery first but it is not providing anything more than a pathway for the electrical energy to go from the alt to the amp
and your 550 amp battery is the cold cranking amps. which the battery only has while fully charged. this does not mean your battery always has 550 amps to dispense of
