class d amps are just like a/b most of them produce the same frenquencies as a/b amps.

 

Frequencies wernt the concern here, and iv never seen a monoblock amplifier that goes into frequencies above 250hz anyway...nevertheless power efficiency was the related concern, as for power being free in a car, true.. but the thing to remember is you are limited to the amount of amperage your charging system can put out, if your using a class a/b amplifier for whatever application just know that style of power supply switching is normally at best 50% efficient, which is why you always see in gigantic product packaging 1000WATTS!!! followed by a size 8 font of 500wrms, also a multi channel amp being used for subwoofers is putting more strain on the amp in turn causing more heat due to a heavier load, and being a class a/b will turn itself off to protect from overheating much more easily then a class d style amplifier, im sure most everyone has seen that before.

so without turning this into a flamewar or an army of misdirection just a good tip and relative way to think about it class a/b 50% efficient and class d 80% efficient at best, at least for the majority of the products we have or can afford.

 

for a sub, monoblock amps are the way to go.

 

like talking to a brick wall on this forum sometimes.

you shouldn't be driving a load that makes it over heat anyways. not trying to argue, just trying to keep misinformation from spreading. a properly sized amp on a proper load will not overheat. no matter if a/b or d class.

I whole heartedly agree that a class d is more efficient. Would you trade your Ranger in for a Prius? just because its smaller and more efficient. even though it saves gas your still downgrading to a weaker less useful vehicle. thats the same concept with cheap Class D amps ... they are not always better. there are very few well made class d amps out these days.

 

sick setup

 

my current set up is metering well for being inexpensive. its also very very clean and tight. I have been through the reg cab battle for a while. im running 2 re audio 8s and an autotek amp. no problems here!

 

A 1000 watt amp for a single 10 in sub...wayyyy over kill.

 

He said 1000 watt max. I doubt he constantly pushing anything near that.

 

Kicker cvr are always good. I have a cvr 10 in me x cab for years and I never even ran it to its full capacity and it was great for me. If I were to do a new system I would go for low profile subs especially for a single cab.

 

So you recommend getting a kicker cvt?