mine took a dump at 16,000 miles, ford fixed it under warrentee, new slave and presssure plate.

 

wow, this sounds like a pretty bad problem. ive always noticed that my clutch is alot softer than other trucks and also that i have about 1 inch of play in the pedal. ive had no problems with it since i had the truck and i always drive it hard. truck has 43k on it now.

Justin

 

Looks like i've got the same problem. Mine won't go in gear w/ the truck running at all. Tranny operates fine w/ the engine shut off. When I got in it last night, I had an awful time getting home, and if I didn't baby it, I could feel and see it slipping via the rpm's on the tach. I'm guessing the clutch is already saturated. I noticed in the last few days the release point was alot higher (all the way released, or when your foot is completely off the pedal). I noticed my clutch felt "different" last winter as well, but not nearly as bad, then it seemed fine until now. What do ya'll think i'm looking at as far as repair costs at the dealership? I had the maf sensor replaced @ 36,200 miles (yes, 200 miles past warranty) for $310 dollars (that was also including "the works", and wiper blades), now it's at 38,500 miles. I know one thing for sure....I've bought two Ford trucks. My first & my last. Back to Toyota. Ugh. I tried to buy American, but I'm not going to pay a truck payment and hundreds of dollars a month to keep the heap running. I mentioned the odd feel to the clutch @ the dealership before....of course they did nothing to remedy it. It's a shame. These are good looking, good running, and comfortable trucks, but this is an old platform, & Ford has has plenty of time to work the bugs out.

 

If you have any record of the problem occurring during the warranty period, you may be able get them to cover it. Even if you don't have the record, it may be available in the OASIS service computer system, provided that the dealer logged it in at the time. If this was done conversationally rather than in writing on an repair order, that won't work.

But even if you can't verify that the problem occurred during warranty, you may still get them to pay for it partially on a "goodwill" basis. This usually takes a bit of whining and squawking and perhaps a call to Ford corporate but it might save you some bucks.

 

I told them to check it out before, but I don't know if they logged it or not. I'm just pissed. I've never had this kind of trouble w/ my Toyotas ever. Here it is Christmas time and I won't even be able to get it in the shop until Tuesday, and then i'm figuring close to 1K in repairs, plus I'm more or less stuck at home. I could drive it I guess if I had to (put it in gear, then turn the truck on to get moving and gouge it into gear as i'm driving), but I don't want to damage the transmission. It doesn't grind, it just doesn't want to go in gear at'all. I've driven clutches ever since i've been driving, and i'm 35 now, and this isn't something I've caused. I don't ride the clutch or leave my foot on the pedal. 2 costly malfunctions w/in 2000 miles of the warranty running out is ridiculous. I almost bought a Dodge Dakota when I bought my Ranger, but I thought Ford was a better product. If I had it to do over again, I would have kept my Tacoma....hindsight 20/20. Argh. I really like(ed) this truck ALOT too.

 

Your frustration is understandable but now you need to concentrate on how to get this resolved for the least amount of cash out of pocket.

I would try to get them to go 50/50 on it if they won't pick up the whole tab. It doesn't hurt to try. You're just barely out of warranty and they might go for it.

 

Yeah, your right, i'm a bit frustrated to say the least. I'm going to try and bleed the system tomorrow to try and fix it temporarily. I've been reading a bit about it and it seems the systems on the Rangers are a real pita to fool w/. Is the bleeder valve on the side of the tranny case, or where can I find it? I'm seeing quick disconnects, but I don't think all that may be necessary. From what i've been reading, by design the hydraulic clutch systems seem to want to get air in them.

 

I got my truck back. Slave cylinder, Clutch & Pressure plate installed to the tune of $732.10. it shudders a bit when the clutch first takes up, but i'm hoping it's a bit of grease or something on the plate and it will wear in. When I was under it trying to bleed the system, I noticed the front pinion seal is leaking. This is fun. The heck of it is, i've babied the s*&t out of this truck. Oil changes every 3000 miles, the "works" every 6000, air filters, fuel filter, maintenance above and beyond whats recommended, and i've never even had it offroad. The grand majority of the miles have been on the highway. I would guess it's been in 4 wheel drive an hour, 2 tops due to snow. Let's see: mass air flow sensor @ 36200 miles, slave cylinder, clutch & pressure plate (due to the failed slave) @ 38200 miles, and I need a pinion seal. What should I expect next?

 

I have a 2004 Ranger FX4 Level II with just under 26K on it and my clutch pedal went soft 2 days ago and now it seems to be slipping. Pedal feels like a marshmellow. Is this some of the symptoms of a failed master or slave cylinder? Could it be making my clutch slip? It happend over night and I was mudding with it a few days before but no problems then or the day after but the next day was a different story. Is there any warranty on a clutch or is it considered a wear item like brakes?? Any help would be wonderful.

 

I have a 2003 LII and had identical symptoms one morning 3 weeks ago due to a failed slave cylinder. The clutch lining by itself is considered a consumable item and is not warrantiable for wear. HOWEVER, Ford replaced my clutch disc and pressure plate under warranty along with the slave cylinder because its leak caused the clutch to be damaged.

 

Mine was doing similar things. Would not go into gear while engine was running unless I realy forced it. Was ready for an entire replacement. All was replaced about 45K ago and I really baby the clutch. While the tranny is out, may as well replace everything since it's a boat load of labor. And possibly replace the rear main seal too. There is an inspection window where you can check the condition of the pressure plate. It all looked fine and was disengaging. My mechanic removed the master cylinder, bled it, and replaced it and bled the system. That was all it took. Works great now. Glad to give him $40 instead of $800.

 

Just went and talked to my service advisor today and he has ordered in a new slave cylinder for my truck and I will have it replaced tuesday. If it happens to be the clutch disk itself he wont charge me and replace the slave anyway. So good news for me so far today, hopefully I wont have to put a clutch kit in.