I would start with the charging system. Modern computerised vehicles hate voltage fluctuations and I've seen cars do all sorts of insane stuff just because of an alternator failing. If your alternator failed you could have survived for a short time on the battery until the voltage dropped too low. And even a nearly dead battery can power lights but will never turn the starter solenoid over. Try simply jump starting the truck. If it cranks you can probably bet your on the right track and move on to testing the alternator...

oh yea... check the oil first to confirm you didn't just fry the engine running out of oil lol.

 

yea when the oil light comes on you have about 5 sec to shut the engine off or you roasted it - the light means no oil psi - has nothing to do with oil level.... Better hope the alt died or something else happened first.

 

Welcome to the forum

Sorry
Engine is seized up so starter motor can not turn over the engine.
Bearings got hot because there was no oil to cool them off so they are now welded to the crank.

Shop for replacement engine

Not a "guess", you said "oil light came on" and "I drove for 5 more minutes", and that's a seized engine and nothing else

Starter motor not working confirms it

 

You guys are such downers lol. Give the guy some hope.

 

Make sure tire pressure is at 32psi, then try starting engine again.
If that doesn't work look for a new engine

Better?

It is a bummer but better to know worst case, than to waste time and maybe money on non-fixes

More than a few I have advised, to "just do the glove test" for cracked head or blown head gasket, spend time and money replacing thermostats, water pumps and radiators to cure over heating when they have a cracked head or blown head gasket.
Sure they have new thermostat and water pump and radiator, to go with the new heads, lol, but stills I think it is better to know what is wrong first then see what else you want to add to that

 

Nick, just to confirm what Ron is saying, pull all the plugs and try to turn the engine by hand, it should turn easily with no compression with the plugs removed.

 

 

Man that sucks !
It would be interesting to see what the synchronizer gear and roll pin looks like.
That drives the oil pump.

 

Yes, bummer for sure.

There are rolled or wrecked Rangers, with 3.0l engines that are OK
Your Ranger isn't worth as much with bad engine, neither is the rolled or wrecked one........but combine them and you have a Ranger that's worth money again

3.0l Vulcan engine has been made from 1986 to 2008, your Ranger was last year of the 3.0l Vulcan engine, just FYI.
It was also used in areostar, taurus and sable.

You can use pretty much any year 3.0l Vulcan from any vehicle, obviously later years will have lower miles.
You will need to use your intake and exhaust, oil pan and accessories

Used 3.0l Vulcan engine runs about $800-$1,100 depending on miles

Or you can rebuild yours
Master rebuild kit runs $300-$400, thats with new pistons, rings, cam, bearings, and gaskets.

You have to pull and install an engine either way, used engine or rebuild yours

 

This makes me a sad panda