so i just rebuilt the engine and it starts out driving ok until i get on the freeway and it feels like its just not going as fast as it should and then the O/D light starts flashing and it starts shifting hard until i turn it off and seems to only do it with O/D on. no check engine but got stored code

P0741 - Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

from what i gathered possibilities are
-low/dirty fluid
-damaged wiring to the transmission
-damaged internal wiring to the solenoid
-bad solenoid

i have 2 possible causes

1 -during the engine rebuild i drained the tranny fluid and it sat dry for a few months.. not sure if thats know to cause any issues..

2 - when bolting the engine to the tranny the tc didnt line up right and i had the top bolts started when i noticed the block to bellhousing wasnt straight so i turned the crank a bit and it popped into place..

oh and ford calls for mercon V fluid and im using just mercon/dexon with a bottle of the lucas auto trans additive..

 

That part is SCARY

But if truck moves then you are probably OK, didn't break front pump

assuming a 1995 or later Ranger automatic
P0741 means the engine RPMs and the VSS(speed sensor) are not synced correctly for transmission setting.

When you get above say 35MPH the computer will Lock the Torque Converter(TCC) using TCC solenoid, this gives you better MPG, as you slow down computer will unlock TCC solenoid, so engine can idle while trans is still "in gear", so TCC is like an automatic clutch.

With TCC solenoid locked, when you step on the gas pedal engine RPMs should increase and speed should increase equal to the gear ratio computer has selected for that speed.
If engine RPMs increase faster than speed then computer "knows" TCC is not locked, or transmission is slipping internally.

Internal slipping could be fluid related, letting trans "sit dry" may have caused internal seals/gaskets to dry out and crack, so they are now leaking and you are losing pressure, which causes slipping.

How does Reverse work?
reverse requires the highest pressure, 150+ PSI needed, slow to engage or no Reverse is a Pressure issue.
Any problems with Reverse would mean internal leaking

Could be TCC solenoid is bad, or its wire to computer

Wiring diagram below, 4R and 5R used same color wires
Solenoid should test 10ohms or so, not 0 and not very high, +100

If computer connector is easy to get to, upper center of firewall, then disconnect battery, remove connector and you can test OHMS on all the solenoids wiring from that connector and fuse in engine fuse box

 

i have an 03 edge with the 5r44e tranny.. the electrical connection you refer to is that the one in the dash to the left of the stereo or the one in the engine compartment near the heater core? would be awesome if i can check the solenoids dropping the pan..

it feels pretty normal at low rpm but it feels like its winding out faster than its moving.. it feels different than when its slipping.. can usually feel the torque drop when it slips and this is like the torque isnt even there.. doesnt seem as bad with OD off..

could it be a fluid issue? it has dex/merc fluid and should be mercon v.. can i change fluid by disconnecting the cooler lines and have the outgoing fluid go to a bucket and gravity feed the intake? or would i have to have a sealed 2 chamber device to let the outgoing push in the new fluid? just something i was thinking about

 

No, on that connector in dash

Computer(PCM) connector should be in engine bay, firewall, high up passenger side center.

Here are the 2003 diagrams

There is also the larger connector on the transmission, just in front of shift linkage, you can test there as well

 

so i tested the vio/yel wire #54 to ground and got reading 3.72 on 20k ohm setting so that means wiring is ok right? and i changed out the dex/merc fluid for mercon V but is still acting up..


this is a test from the workshop manual.

TEST #1 ) After normal operating temperature is reached, maintain a constant vehicle speed of about 50 mph and tap brake pedal with the left foot. Engine rpm should increase when brake pedal is tapped, and decrease about five seconds after pedal is released
RESULT ) when its cold it does as expcted but after its warm tapping the brake does nothing.

DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE
Main Control Assembly
· Screw out of torque specification · Tighten to specification.
· Gasket damaged, off location · Inspect and install a new gasket.
· Separator plate damaged · Inspect for damage. Repair as required.
· Converter clutch control valve (201), thermostat bypass valve/cooler limit valve (216), spring, damaged, missing, misassembled, stuck, bore damaged · Inspect for damage. If damaged, install a new main control. If parts are missing, install new parts or main control. If misassembled, reassemble correctly. Do not stone, file or sand valves. This will remove the anodized finish and may result in further main control or transmission damage.
· TCC solenoid and valve (200), stuck, damaged, O-ring damaged or out of bore · Inspect for damage. Carry out solenoid function test as listed in electrical routine. Repair as required. · Wrong component used in rebuild · Verify that correct components were used.
Pump Assembly
· Screws out of torque specification · Tighten screws to specification.
· Cross leaks · Inspect for damage. Repair as required.
· Front pump seal worn or damaged · Inspect for damage. Repair as required.
· Seal on inner pump gear damaged · Inspect for damage. Repair as required.
Torque Converter Clutch Assembly
· Torque converter internal malfunction preventing lockup, piston application · Remove transmission. Inspect for damage. Install a new or remanufactured torque converter if require

now what screw are they talking about being out of torque specification?

would a bottle of those trans additives that are supposed to plump up the rubber o rings and seals be a good idea or a waste of $$? ive always liked lucas oil stabalizer in my beetle engine and transaxle. anyone used the auto trans stuff from lucas? or any other recomendations?

are the torque convertyers for the 4.0 the same as for the 3.0? some ebay ads say they are compatable for both

 

so let say that when the converter wasnt lined up and while the engine was trying to mate with the tranny was squeezing the converter spun the crankshaft to pop in place.. is it likely the converter was damaged or the tranny? not sure the durability of the 2

also is a 4.0 converter any different than the 3.0 besides having a 250rpm lower stall? 250rpm doesnt seem like much and i can pick a new one up for $70 right now..

ive been trying to make a positive id of what trans i have and most places say its the 5r44e since its a 3.0 but ive found a few places that say some edge models and the newer 3.0s have the 5r55e and im not sure what is considered newer. my door tag says tr code D and D is 5r44e/5r55e so doesnt help much.. i have a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge Plus ext cab 4dr stepside 3.0 auto 2x4

 

Wouldn't matter what transmission unless rebuilding it.

A4LD, 4R44E, 4R55E, 5R44E, 5R55E all used the same torque converter, engine size did have different stall speeds, but not really an issue.
They are all the same transmission, all 4 speeds, 5R got a shift to Overdrive while still in 1st, which added a Faux 2nd gear, that gave it 5-speed status

55E was made for the 4.0l engines, because of the higher torque, no reason at all for the 55E to be behind a 3.0l or 4cyl.
Ford could have run out of 44Es and stuck some 55Es in 3.0l Rangers, lol, but no benefit, it isn't a "better" transmission behind a 3.0l

You have a 5R44E if you have a 3.0l

If transmission moves the truck then I doubt you did any damage, but I wouldn't repeat what happened :)

 

thats a relief.. so going from the diagram you linked for the 5r44e i tied into 2 wires, the vio/yel and lt blue/org by pushing a fish hook (straightened w/o barb) in the connector on the trans. i have an ohm reading of 11.1. now i just apply 12v to these wires and i should hear the solenoid click correct? are they polarity specific and can i test it wile everything is still wired or do i need to disconnect the connector first?

 

All the solenoids get 12volts when key is on, so that one 12volt wire(light blue/orange stripe, Fuse 41) is shared by all the solenoids.
Computer has the Ground wire for each solenoid run to it, so computer Grounds a solenoid to close it, unGrounds to open it

So if you Grounded the purple/yellow striped wire while key is on you should "in theory" hear solenoid "click".
Use a Sewing pin to pierce the wire then jumper wire from pin to ground

Never tried to hear a transmission solenoid, that is why I said "in theory", lol
A Solenoid causes motion, opens and closes valves, or pushes Starter Gear out on starter motor.
So may or may not make a noise.

Relays open and close electrical contacts so do make a "clicking" noise

Relays and solenoids operate the same way, but do different things
For years the fender mounted Starter Relay was called the Starter Solenoid, it is a relay, it passes electricity, no motion involved, lol.
So people often associate "clicking" noise with a solenoid, because starter relay would click, click, click if battery was dying, lol

No, a solenoid(or relay) had no polarity, just 1 wire wrapped around a metal cylinder, with a connector at both ends of the wire, when you pass voltage thru the wire, in either direction, it becomes and electro-magnet, this either pulls down a contact bar in a relay, or pulls in a metal rod in a solenoid

 

when you have a low battery and you start try to start your car and all you hear is that 'click' is the solenoid isnt it? or guess maybe just the click of the gear hitting its end of travel...

i just suggested listening for a click because i read it somewhere as a way to check if the solenoid is functioning.. and about torque converters.. ive found a small difference accoring to this site.. Florida Torque Converter.. so is there really a difference in tc? im sure that the pilot being stepped or non-stepped and either .750 or .825 makes a difference

Application: 2002-2009 with 2.3L, 2.5L, 3.0L
Make/Model: 2002-2009 FORD RANGER 2.3L, 3.0L
Transmission: 5R44E
Diameter: 11”
Spline: 21
Pilot: .825” NON-STEPPED PILOT LENGTH 1 3/16”
Hub: MILL FLATS
Mounting: 4 STUDS 9 3/16” BOLT CIRCLE
Clutch: YES
ID Code: IL5AB, IL5AC, YL2AB, YL2BA, 2L5AA, 1L5P-7902-AC
Stall: HIGH STALL

Application: 4.0L
Make/Model: MAZDA B2000, MAZDA NAVAJO
1996-1997 FORD AEROSTAR 4.0L
1991-1994 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L
1995-2002 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L
1996-2007 FORD RANGER 4.0L
1997-2003 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER 4.0L
2008-2008 FORD MUSTANG 4.0L
Transmission: A4LD, 4R44, 4R55, 5R55, 5R55W, 5R55W/S, 5R55E2WD, 5R55E4WD
Diameter: 11”
Spline: 21
Pilot: .750” STEPPED PILOT LENGTH 1 5/16”
Hub: MILL FLATS
Mounting: 4 STUDS 9 3/16” BOLT CIRCLE
Clutch: YES
Stall: LOW STALL

Application: 1996-00, 2002, 2004 with 3.0L, 4.0L
Make/Model: AEROSTAR, RANGER, MOUNTAINEER, MAZDA B4000
2000-2007 FORD EXPLORER
2001-2008 FORD EXPLORER SPORT
Transmission: A4LD, 4R44, 4R55, 5R55 (all with .750" pilot)
Diameter: 11”
Spline: 21
Pilot: .750” STEPPED PILOT LENGTH 1 7/16”
Hub: MILL FLATS
Mounting: 9 3/16” BOLT CIRCLE 4 STUDS
Clutch: YES
Stall: LOW STALL

 

Never heard of stepped or unstepped pilot length so can't tell you

The "click" on starter motor or fender is the Relay
Starter motor can have both, relay/solenoid combo unit, a "renoid" or a "solenay", lol.

Now all things being equal they both could be called solenoids, and that was the original name for this type of device, a Relay DOES MOVE the contact bar, so technically it cause movement.

 

ok so i took a short drive with a mulitimeter hooked up had 0v at low speed but when i was driving was cruising on the freeway it would usually read around 8v with some fluctuating to 12v and when its cold it reads 11.1 ohm and 20.4 ohm after it was warmed up.

i couldnt really feel any change in torque when voltage was applied. still felt like it was winding out without really going anywhere. i can hear the solenoid clicking when i ground the violet/yellow wire but still getting code P0741.

also when im stopped if i shift through the gears it sometimes shifts hard and the truck jumps a little like if i didnt have my foot on the brake it would want to take off.. and its defiantly gets worse the longer i drive as it warms up.

 

so i started playing with my elm327 wifi obd reader and dashcommand app and found some really cool stuff.. it can monitor my transmission shafts and even many rpms the torque converters slipping. as well as a butt load of other data.. i made this log that can be viewed in excel.. i just auto scroll and watch the log to process in my head whats going on...

to sum it up when the truck is cold it shifts well and converter locks up finde after the trans temp starts to increase the converter fails to lockup in 4th & 5TH making temp and rpms increase and mph decrease while keeping steady on the throttle.

i added a bottle of seafoam trans cleaner stuff.. not the stop leak but the one that cleans valves and varnish for auto trannys and the first cold run was the best it drove since i dropped in the motor but didnt last long. as soon and the motor warmed up it slipping and failing lock up again. i have a new torque converter so going to drop it and take a look at it and guess what im looking at since the most ive done to an auto is change the fluid and filter lol..

oh and heres the log if someone want to look at it.. i just thought it was pretty awesome that a phone can do so much

DashCommandLog

 

Sorry I haven't been able to help any more, you are going where I never have as far as testing transmission.

The warm fluid slipping reads like a valve is leaking when fluid thins out, but holds enough pressure when fluid is thicker.

Not much more I can offer besides that fairly obvious observation
But I wouldn't think that was a torque converter issue

 

i was thinking i may have either cracked something installing the engine or some seal dried out when i let it sit dry. i ordered a transgo 4r-5r-44e-55e kit.. should be here wednesday. is there anything else i need to do to the tranny? probably wasted money on a torque coverter didnt i?

its been acting very erratic on top of the intermittent tcc lockup stuck off it will be driving fine the bam its like someone pulled out the slipinslide and i rev up to 5k like im in neutral before shifting. and its getting worse.. it completely missed a shift from 2nd-3rd reved up then CLUNK oh theres 3rd..

 

ok just got the transgo sk 44-55e shift kit and im stuck trying to remove the valve body. i have the pan and solenoids out and all the bolts as well as what i think its the pressure regulator.. but the valve body wont drop off..
if i finger the solenoid holes i can feel a rod in a few and all but one moves freely. theres one thats bound up and will not move at all. i havent tried to force anything other than trying to wiggle the valve body a bit. not sure what im missing.. the youtube video it just falls right off with the last bolt

 

so installed the transgo sk 44-55e shift kit and besides a delayed reverse it seems to be shifting better. no more P0741 :-)

i thought the transgo kit was supposed to fix/prevent a delayed reverse shift?

 

Never used a "kit" but reads like a valve is leaking a bit, so takes a second or two to build enough pressure to engage reverse

Reverse requires the highest pressure, 150+psi, to engage
This is why the first sign of an automatic transmission pressure problem often shows up as delayed or no Reverse

 

ok so the light started flashing again.. still got P0741..
if its no tthe valve body a solenoid what would it be? the torque converter itself? i dont think its wiring since it does lock up sometimes.. guess ill probe the tcc again and check it running and see if its actually getting grounded when its slipping..

ill see about getting the bonded seperator plate from ford and hope that helps the delayed reverse