Hey everyone I'm new to this forum as I just bought a 96 Ranger 4x4 3.0 and an auto tranny, the funny thing is when I shift into drive their is a serious delay until it goes into gear, or sometimes acts as if I did not even shift. If instead I shift into 2nd or 1st the tranny goes into gear instantly, thinking it could be a linkage issue, the tranny supposedly has been rebuilt about 30,000k ago. Any input would be appreciated, thanks!

 

Welcome to the forum

1996 3.0l Ranger will have the 4R44E automatic

No probably not linkage unless P, R, N, 2, and 1 also mis-shift on the column shifter.
On the side of the trans is the Range sensor switch, it tells the computer what gear was selected so it can open and close the correct solenoids in the transmission.
Google: 1996 ranger range sensor switch

If there was a problem with this switch then you would most likely get a CEL(check engine light), so it is a longshot


Automatics run on Pressure, Reverse requires the highest pressure which is why when a trans is failing you will often lose reverse first.

It reads like pressure is slow to build up in Drive, this can be from internal leaking of gaskets and seals.
Products like Lucas transmission fix are additives that help soften and swell gaskets and seals and can be a temporary fix for internal leaks

A transmission shop can hookup pressure gauges and test transmission, usually not too expensive for this test, the pressures can often pin point the problem.

In general a "soft parts" rebuilt automatic will last 18 months or so, there are hard parts that should also be replaced but often aren't on a quick rebuild, main pump(Ford brand only), forward one-way clutch and OD drum for sure need to be replaced during a rebuild

 

Hey thankyou, the truck also won't start sometimes in park and I have to jiggle the handle so that sensor may be the culprit, no cel though.

 

Then yes, it could be

There is a common issue with Ford truck column shifters
Google: Ford ranger column shifter loose

It is not specific to Rangers all Ford trucks use the same shifter, screws get loose on the back side under dash.
But this would "feel" like a loose shifter, which is not what you described

 

Hello, this my first post. I hope I can get some help from you guys. I have a 97 ranger 4.0 automatic. Some time back I lost reverse. It turned out that fluid was low. Recently when to started the truck, and it struggled at first but after several tries it started up just fine. When I put it into reverse the truck would rev and not move. I checked the other gears and they all did the same thing.
I then checked the fluid level and it registers high. I removed the transmission pan and drained what fluid I could, then added new fluid. Truck still has the same issue. When the truck ran the night before this problem, it displayed no issues what so ever. No sticks, no slips, nothing.
I'm running out of ideas.
Not sure if it could be the torque converter, seals, solenoids, or maybe even electrical. When I bought this truck a year ago the former owner showed me proof of a complete transmission rebuild.
Please help. I'm capable of doing the work my self if I can narrow down the causative factor.
Thanks.

 

Welcome to the forum


A rebuilt trans may only last 12-18 months if main pump and one-way clutch was not replaced, if only clutches, bands, and servos are replaced then failure is guaranteed sooner than later


Check dip stick engine off, then check it engine on
If dip stick shows the same with engine off and running then your main pump(front pump) is not working.
No pump = no go

The solenoids don't make transmission work, they help it shift gears and get better MPG.
You could unplug the electrics on that trans and it would still go into gear, wouldn't shift well but would shift, and have reverse

An automatic needs fluid pressure to engage bands/gears, so no gears means no pressure, which brings you back to the pump.

You could get a pan and remove 1 trans cooler line, then start engine, should get lots of flow out of rad or line depending on which line you removed, in or out, if pump is working, little flow would for sure mean pump problem.

If fluid level drops with engine running then yes could be torque converter problem, it is a fluid coupler and not likely to fail out right, no movement at all, but anything is possible.

 

Thank you for your help

I was suspecting a pump issue. However, I have read so much online that I was not certain. I guess I wanted to have a better idea before tearing the transmission out completely. I preformed the line check prior and there was no fluid movement what so ever.

Despite that test I was not certain it was the pump since I read a forum post where someone said that the pump doesn't kick in till a certain temp is reached, not sure how much of that is true.

Never the less, I will move forward on removing the trans and checking out the pump.

 

Not true, and that's a very very odd statement............

Main pump(front pump) is powered by the torque converter's outer case.
So when engine is turning, torque converter's case is turning and front pump is turning(pumping).

All automatics have worked this way, since there were automatics.

If you look at a torque converter you will see where it bolts to the flexplate(crank shaft on engine)
Then at its other end, the part that slides into the transmission, you will see "tabs" or slots, those drive the pump, they fit into slots or tabs in the pump to spin it/drive it

And one heads up because it reads like this may be your first automatic work.

Because of the tabs and slots you MUST install the torque converter on to the transmission FIRST!!!!!!!!!
Before attaching trans to engine
So place torque converter onto the transmissions input shaft and slide it in until it stops.

NOW TURN THE TORQUE CONVERTER WHILE PUSHING IN ON IT

You will feel it slide in more, sometimes 2 or 3 more times, as all the slots and tabs get lined up inside the trans.

Torque converter should now be inside the bellhousing, nothing sticking out

When you install the trans on the engine the bellhousing should slide on tight to engine
No forcing it on with bolts
Then torque converter will turn and pull forward slightly to be bolted to the flexplate

This one mistake, which I did make my first time, is costly.
If you don't line up the slots and tabs then bellhousing will not go on easily, so you will install some bolts and force it on.
And at some point you may hear a noise then it will bolt on easily after that, nice fit........

That noise was the front pump breaking because tabs were not lined up.
So you will get everything back together, all wired up, and ready to go
Then you will start the engine and put trans into gear.................
NOTHING!!!!
No gears, just nothing

Front pump replacement requires full disassembly, and only use Ford pumps, they are worth the few extra dollars

 

Thanks. Very information. I will apply all your advice moving forward. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

I have a 97 4.0 2wd w a 98 5r55e I just did the swap 2 weeks ago it's been driving fine but now my shifter is off like park is actually reverse and reverse is actually neutral and so on, so I can't get it into park without climbing under it and doing it manually and the shifter will only go down to second, as second is now first. I took those bolts under the dash out and put them back in w lock tight and made sure they were tight, I adjusted the little screw thing to align the red line on the cluster, and I looked at the linkage under the truck but nothing looks obviously wrong, I've done everything the internet said would fix it and it hasn't done jack, you have any idea what it would be?

 

Check the cable where it bends coming out of firewall and see if its split

The shift indicator on the bottom of cluster just adjusts the needle/pointer so you don't do anything with that until you have a cable working, P to 1 and you can feel all the detents inside the transmission

This is a drawing of the shift rod inside steering column: http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/ju...RACKET_001.jpg
at the right is where the shifter arm would be, at the left is where the shift cable attaches
The bushings can wear out and the end can get loose, the Pink part

What you are describing is this??
When you have it in park, and it is in park, you shift it to Drive but then when you shift back to park it won't return to original position
If so that means something is loose, for sure
That can be the cable sheath has split or the shift rod parts are loose or worn out

It possible there is an issue at the transmission end, not common though
Have someone move shifter through the gears while you watch linkage from underneath, see if there is any flexing or looseness