Zabeard's Front 3link and Coilovers (Done)
Zabeard's Front 3link and Coilovers (Done)
Basically the other thread is so long and its already been SAS'd
I am converting from XJ/TJ Long arm system to a custom 3 link setup. Ditching the 5.5" XJ coils for 14" Ballistic Fabrication 2.125" coilovers.
Specs
Lower Link
2.63" Ballistic JJ on the axle and frame end of the lowers.
Roughly 41" Long (eyelet to eyelet)
Passenger side upper Link
2.63" Ballistic JJ on the axle end and a 7/8" - 3/4" Ball Chromo Heim on the frame end
Roughly 31" long eyelet to eyelet
10" of separation of the upper and lower links at the axle end.
Plan is to have 6" of up travel and 8" of down 60/40
I am also putting on a Currie AntiRock sway bar, I had one, it wont work with the width and steering setup so I bought the full size one 44" with 20" arms and I will make that work.
During the change I will be replacing the panhard with a longer one because of the added room, hopefully that will also improve the front suspension.
Some may ask why I am doing it, list of reasons
Caster change within travel
Rubber bushings suck
more accurate spring rate
better travel
I'm sure there are other reasons.
I have a big parts list, I will post that later.
I have all the parts in possession except the coilovers. I cant order those until I get my truck weighed.
I am converting from XJ/TJ Long arm system to a custom 3 link setup. Ditching the 5.5" XJ coils for 14" Ballistic Fabrication 2.125" coilovers.
Specs
Lower Link
2.63" Ballistic JJ on the axle and frame end of the lowers.
Roughly 41" Long (eyelet to eyelet)
Passenger side upper Link
2.63" Ballistic JJ on the axle end and a 7/8" - 3/4" Ball Chromo Heim on the frame end
Roughly 31" long eyelet to eyelet
10" of separation of the upper and lower links at the axle end.
Plan is to have 6" of up travel and 8" of down 60/40
I am also putting on a Currie AntiRock sway bar, I had one, it wont work with the width and steering setup so I bought the full size one 44" with 20" arms and I will make that work.
During the change I will be replacing the panhard with a longer one because of the added room, hopefully that will also improve the front suspension.
Some may ask why I am doing it, list of reasons
Caster change within travel
Rubber bushings suck
more accurate spring rate
better travel
I'm sure there are other reasons.
I have a big parts list, I will post that later.
I have all the parts in possession except the coilovers. I cant order those until I get my truck weighed.
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Firey depths
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YoAu-gPPktQ
Watch that video, its pinion angle for dummies type of stuff. It shows a bunch of different types of 4 links, but its the same thing for what your doing. The short upper causes alot of pinion change, if you want it to remain flat through out the travel you need to keep the links as even in length as possible.
Watch that video, its pinion angle for dummies type of stuff. It shows a bunch of different types of 4 links, but its the same thing for what your doing. The short upper causes alot of pinion change, if you want it to remain flat through out the travel you need to keep the links as even in length as possible.
based off a few articles that i have read the upper should be 75% of the lowers.
when i get home i will look at my bookmarks and show you. that is really the only reason.
I already bought the DOM, but it is a little bit long.
when i get home i will look at my bookmarks and show you. that is really the only reason.
I already bought the DOM, but it is a little bit long.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YoAu-gPPktQ
Watch that video, its pinion angle for dummies type of stuff. It shows a bunch of different types of 4 links, but its the same thing for what your doing. The short upper causes alot of pinion change, if you want it to remain flat through out the travel you need to keep the links as even in length as possible.
Watch that video, its pinion angle for dummies type of stuff. It shows a bunch of different types of 4 links, but its the same thing for what your doing. The short upper causes alot of pinion change, if you want it to remain flat through out the travel you need to keep the links as even in length as possible.
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Firey depths
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/fi...kV1.0bBETA.zip
Just seems like from a pinion travel stand point you want them closer in length. Specially if your going to be pulling a lot of travel because the pinion will rotate a lot through out.
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Firey depths
Have you plugged anything into the Pirate 3link Calculator?
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/fi...kV1.0bBETA.zip
Just seems like from a pinion travel stand point you want them closer in length. Specially if your going to be pulling a lot of travel because the pinion will rotate a lot through out.
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/fi...kV1.0bBETA.zip
Just seems like from a pinion travel stand point you want them closer in length. Specially if your going to be pulling a lot of travel because the pinion will rotate a lot through out.
I took some pics this afternoon.
$750+ worth of parts
Btw this is one of the best tools I have got. I just hole sawed a 2" x.25 wall DOM with a 2.63" Hole saw extremely easy. Its awesome, worth every penny
$750+ worth of parts
Btw this is one of the best tools I have got. I just hole sawed a 2" x.25 wall DOM with a 2.63" Hole saw extremely easy. Its awesome, worth every penny
