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head light knob fell off

  #1  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Icon5 head light **** fell off



sorry for the picture being so big. I had a friend do my heater core, he had to remove the dashboard of course. After he installed it and put everything back, I noticed the **** was very loose, I thought nothing of it. it has popped out. The friend who did the work moved to Oklahoma. so now i been using pliers to turn it off and on but it is annoying. so I think I know the answer but am seeking a way rather than have to remove the entire dashboard if there is a way. Please let me know if you had a similar situation and what you did to put it back in place or if a video link is available..
Thank you

It is a 1999 Ford Ranger.

 
  #2  
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What has happened is that the 2 screws that hold the switch to the back of the panel have come out OR the switch eyes for the screws have broken
So watch for those screws as you take things apart


Watch this video: youtube.com/watch?v=yM0mjEl7vLc

About 4:30 into the video you will see the panel to remove to get to the back of the switch and the 2 screws that hold it in place
You don't have to do the full disassembly shown but its still a good video to watch to see how other parts of the dash come out

Head light switch has 12volt power all the time, so be careful or unhook the battery to be safe
 

Last edited by RonD; 2 Weeks Ago at 09:57 PM.
  #3  
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Thank you

Thank you. I will see the video..
 
  #4  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I had this happen to me as well, twice. The first time I replaced the surround, however when it happened again I took the surround out and drilled holes around the switch so that I could hold it in place with zip ties. It looks weird, but it works so I left it.
 
  #5  
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Ah......zip ties

I remember the bad ol' days when we only had baling wire to do the custom repairs
 
  #6  
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Disassemble

Well. I don't want to take out the bezzle , the other parts just to get to the headlight switch. Has other folks have same issues but found another way to have **** on there? I know it'll look tacky probably but it's just my work truck..I have my lady's car for going out etc.. lol..
 
  #7  
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Not sure how you would fix it without removing the panel its suppose to be mounted on?
You don't need to remove everything just that lower panel

You could try using a different **** that has a SET SCREW, if you can get the switch shaft out far enough to tighten the set screw on the shaft then that should hold it out, it has those "ears" on the back and the wires holding it so it shouldn't spin too much

Electronic shops will have these

You could try Gorilla glue or similar inside your **** and then try to get it on the shaft, to lock it in place, but if it works it may be tough to fix it down the road, lol
 
  #8  
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Yes, I think you're right.. sigh.
 
  #9  
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Taking the panel off is gonna be kind of a bitch... it doesnt fit nicely over the steering column... remove the bottom panel, and remove those screws, you sort of have to force it around the culumn. the gauge cluster is seperate from the panel, so no worries there.
 
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Thank you FMD..
 
  #11  
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It's about a 20min job on my 2004 - I think it's similar on the '99? You need a 7mm and a 10mm if the steel inner knee reinforcement is used on the '99. Ford changes fasteners so they might be different on yours. There are 2 screws on the center radio/heater panel that must be removed so that can be popped out a little bit - the panel you are after goes under it. You'll want a nut driver for the 7mm and a 1/4 drive ratchet handle to get the top center screw right over the column (nut driver is too long). You may have to remove the clamshell covers on the column to get the panel out - those are 3 Phillips screws. You'll have to release the headlight and dimmer rheostat connectors from the side once you get the panel open a bit

Most importantly, don't get mad and break stuff. Pry gently on the snap fasteners, and make sure they feel like they are properly centered before bopping them back down.
 
  #12  
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I do not know for sure but from your picture, the switch mounting may be the main problem, appears that the switch is twisted, but you will never know unless you follow RonD's advice.
I have found in the past that if RonD makes a statement, it is usually the best route, that aside....

If you remove the Dash Panel, you will be able to see what is really wrong, has the switch broken around the ****, or maybe the mounting points broke, switch or **** are broken, the thing is, if you need to replace the Switch the dash will already be apart.

IMHO... it is not a problem to remove the dash, it may take a little time to do it right, but it comes apart once you determine the proper way to move the panel when taking it off... WATCH THE VIDEO !

Do yourself a favor, take it apart, take a look at what is happening behind the panel and make sure it isn't the switch that is broken and you are only attempting to bandage a situation that will only get worse, if you don't fix it !

Ltr

p.s. I replaced the ***** on my '03 Dash, not broken but because I wanted to. The ***** were for a Mustang but fit the Ranger, except they did have a set screw and would fall off... sometimes ! I drilled and tapped them and they stay in place. I also purchased an aluminum ring to go over my directional lever, that too was suppose to stay inplace but didn't, I did the same and it now stays where I want it.
 

Last edited by Scrambler82; 1 Week Ago at 11:01 AM.
  #13  
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Thank you 8th ton. My ladies son in law did the heater core so the panel was removed. I am just guessing he did not screw in the headlight switch. So the it being twisted is because I'm having to dig out the stem, turning it on and off..
 
  #14  
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Originally Posted by rtrev64 View Post
Thank you 8th ton. My ladies son in law did the heater core so the panel was removed. I am just guessing he did not screw in the headlight switch. So the it being twisted is because I'm having to dig out the stem, turning it on and off..
OK then, all you need to do is... either, remove the Gauge Cluster Panel yourself, which isn't hard to do, or get your ladies' Son-in-Law, to remove it for you !

Then you will know where you stand... it is easier than you think to remove the panel, can be time consuming but it isn't a bad project.

You will also gain knowledge about your truck IF and WHEN you need to add switches, or replace that switch, or LED Dash Lights, OR any other thing that needs to be done behind the dash... !

Go for it, Get-er Done !

Don't forget to post your findings and pictures, pictures, pictures... did I mention that the site likes pictures.
 

Last edited by Scrambler82; 1 Week Ago at 10:59 AM.
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Thank you scrambler82.. Will do..
 
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
OK then, all you need to do is... either, remove the Gauge Cluster Panel yourself, which isn't hard to do, or get your ladies' Son-in-Law, to remove it for you !

Then you will know where you stand... it is easier than you think to remove the panel, can be time consuming but it isn't a bad project.

You will also gain knowledge about your truck IF and WHEN you need to add switches, or replace that switch, or LED Dash Lights, OR any other thing that needs to be done behind the dash... !

Go for it, Get-er Done !

Don't forget to post your findings and pictures, pictures, pictures... did I mention that the site likes pictures.
^^^ I agree ^^^

When I changed my dash lights, the bezel removal wasn't a PITA, but fairly easy in steps. The hardest part (IMO) is the hood release.

Great point on gaining that "behind the scenes" knowledge from Scrambler. He's exactly right. This will give you 100% evidence of what went wrong.

RonD mentioned the two screws that hold the switch to the bezel. Removing the bezel will tell you if the mount has been broken or stripped.

Worst case...you'll need a new bezel. Best case...screws backed out somehow and all you need to do is screw 'em back.

Another fix (looks ugly but whatever ) you can possibly drill small holes where it mounts and send two button-head bolts all the way through (front to back) until you don't like that look anymore and procure a new bezel and screws.

eBay can be a great place to start. Found this is a few secs:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-RANGER...-/163580461575

50 Bux.
 
  #17  
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Just a comment in general, I have pulled a large number of these panels from the JY, I have sold a lot of them, picked a good looking one as a backup for my own truck, got more than 50 BUX for them too..., BUT I have never seen a broken light switch mounting on the switch or on the panel. (guessing here some screw have been left out or not tightened)

If it ends up being just the switch isn't mounted or that the switch mounting tabs are broken, don't apply too much pressure on the mounting screws when you reinstall the switch.
Remember that you are mounting into plastic and plastic cracks easily, which might be the problem you are having.
AND thinking on that... if the Mounting Holes for the Switch are just cracked... use some good quality Epoxy to repair the Mount, let it set, put it back together.

If you lived in SoCal, I would suggest you stop by and we could have you back together, barring any Epoxy drying time, in a few hours, but alas... Texas is a long way to travel to get something fixed that would only take a few hours.

Get to it, find out what is wrong and get back on here to let us know where you stand; pictures will help if you are asking questions.
 
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rtrev64,

Did you do anything to the Dash/Headlight Switch ?

Just checking !
 
  #19  
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No.. really busy a lot lately but am considering when I get time off from work what cliffdog 2014 suggested.

thank you for checking. Believe me. Um getting tired of having to use pliers to turn on or off my headlights or praying for daylight to not end lol..
 
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ya, things always get in my way too.

Maybe you should use a small set of vice grips, LoL !
 
  #21  
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We need a like button.. hello admin..
 
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