Lets Start Here
#1
Lets Start Here
So I Have a 2011 XLT 2WD 4.0 V6 SOHC 140k milles all stock parts
it has a list of issues but lets start with the operating temperature
so I drive about 20 mins to work every morning (and don't have the heat or air on) I live in the DFW area in Texas and by the time I get close to work the temperature gauge is in the middle as I believe it normally should be, but as I exit the off ramp and press the break the needle shoots down like the car is cooling of instantly. how can this be if I just drove 20 mins plus because I go to work so early there is no stoping until I reach the off ramp.
any ideas
it has a list of issues but lets start with the operating temperature
so I drive about 20 mins to work every morning (and don't have the heat or air on) I live in the DFW area in Texas and by the time I get close to work the temperature gauge is in the middle as I believe it normally should be, but as I exit the off ramp and press the break the needle shoots down like the car is cooling of instantly. how can this be if I just drove 20 mins plus because I go to work so early there is no stoping until I reach the off ramp.
any ideas
#2
Normal operating temp for a gasoline engine is 190degF
Ford Temp gauge has 200-210degF as the center line
So just below 1/2 would be normal operating temp
From your description it reads like the thermostat could be sticking a bit
When you are at higher load and RPMs(highway speeds) the engine is generating the most heat
When you slow down the RPMs drop and so does circulation of coolant, so temp in engine goes UP instantly
The thermostat should open up A BIT MORE when that happens, but if it is "stuck" and then releases it will open up ALOT and temp drops TOO FAR until thermostat closes more to equalize temp
Thermostats run on WAX, yes wax, lol
But there is a mechanical part where the piston slides the valve open and closed and it can stick a bit, and as the wax heats up even more then when it unsticks its opening too far
So I would look at changing the thermostat, and give the thermostat housing a GOOD LOOK as these tended to crack and leak on the 4.0l SOHC engines
Good read here on changing the thermostat AND housing: https://howtoreplacefordthermostathousing.com/
Also just a heads up for the 4.0l SOHC engines, you should change the 2 long timing chain tensioners every 100k miles or so just as general maintenance
I mention this now because the front Drivers side tensioner can be access easier after you do the disassembly to change the thermostat
The rear passenger side tensioner can be accessed at anytime thru passenger side wheel well
Ford Temp gauge has 200-210degF as the center line
So just below 1/2 would be normal operating temp
From your description it reads like the thermostat could be sticking a bit
When you are at higher load and RPMs(highway speeds) the engine is generating the most heat
When you slow down the RPMs drop and so does circulation of coolant, so temp in engine goes UP instantly
The thermostat should open up A BIT MORE when that happens, but if it is "stuck" and then releases it will open up ALOT and temp drops TOO FAR until thermostat closes more to equalize temp
Thermostats run on WAX, yes wax, lol
But there is a mechanical part where the piston slides the valve open and closed and it can stick a bit, and as the wax heats up even more then when it unsticks its opening too far
So I would look at changing the thermostat, and give the thermostat housing a GOOD LOOK as these tended to crack and leak on the 4.0l SOHC engines
Good read here on changing the thermostat AND housing: https://howtoreplacefordthermostathousing.com/
Also just a heads up for the 4.0l SOHC engines, you should change the 2 long timing chain tensioners every 100k miles or so just as general maintenance
I mention this now because the front Drivers side tensioner can be access easier after you do the disassembly to change the thermostat
The rear passenger side tensioner can be accessed at anytime thru passenger side wheel well
#3
#4
That's running too cold if you have been driving it over 15min, so thermostat issue in that case
Thermostat sets MINIMUM operating temp, stock t-stat was 190-195degF range, so after 10min or so gauge should be just below 1/2
Yours looks to be at 1/4 to 1/3
Google: HEC Test mode
Test the instrument cluster gauge sweeps
If you or a friend has a temp gun you could test upper rad hose temp after driving a bit to see actual temp of upper engine coolant
Thermostat sets MINIMUM operating temp, stock t-stat was 190-195degF range, so after 10min or so gauge should be just below 1/2
Yours looks to be at 1/4 to 1/3
Google: HEC Test mode
Test the instrument cluster gauge sweeps
If you or a friend has a temp gun you could test upper rad hose temp after driving a bit to see actual temp of upper engine coolant
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