Rear drum brakes, drivers side
Rear drum brakes, drivers side
2008 Ranger. 3.0L, 2-wheel dr.
My back brakes REALLY need to be replaced. I can back up, but can't go ahead, so I'm stuck in my driveway. But, I can't get the drum off. The brake shoes are stuck to the drum and their coming off with the drum, not good. I can't turn the adjuster, its seized. Also some things have let go inside. If I pull on the drum too much, seems like something is going to break, like the wheel cylinder maybe??
If I take off the wheel cylinder, or i mean the two bolts that hold it, should I be able to take the drum off then? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
My back brakes REALLY need to be replaced. I can back up, but can't go ahead, so I'm stuck in my driveway. But, I can't get the drum off. The brake shoes are stuck to the drum and their coming off with the drum, not good. I can't turn the adjuster, its seized. Also some things have let go inside. If I pull on the drum too much, seems like something is going to break, like the wheel cylinder maybe??
If I take off the wheel cylinder, or i mean the two bolts that hold it, should I be able to take the drum off then? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by whiteford2008; Dec 20, 2018 at 07:13 AM. Reason: Forgot vehicle info
The only thing you could break by pulling off the drum is the inside components, which you will have to replace anyway. The wheel cylinder is prolly seized on the backing plate anyway and you will prolly need new brake lines. so my only advice is to pull away!
Welcome to the forum
Open the bleeder and have someone push down on E-brake pedal, some fluid should squirt out, close the bleeder that should collapse the slave(wheel cylinder) enough to remove the drum
Block front tire and put Trans in Neutral, turn the drum backwards as you pull on it, like you said the truck can roll backwards, if you can get access to a shoe then open bleeder and push shoe in to collapse the slave even more
You can pull off the brake line at the slave and open bleeder that should drain most of the fluid out so just the springs are holding the shoes
You need to plug the brake line or fluid will continue to leak out, draining the Master
No, removing the slave bolts won't release the shoes, there is an anchor pin just above it that will still hold everything in place
And the axle hub prevents pulling off the drum with shoes inside in any case, see pictures in below link
Best bet is to collapse the shoes enough to get the drum off
Anchor seen here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...es-brake3a.jpg
Good read, with pictures, here from schenkm on Ranger rear brakes: https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...-brakes-81906/
Open the bleeder and have someone push down on E-brake pedal, some fluid should squirt out, close the bleeder that should collapse the slave(wheel cylinder) enough to remove the drum
Block front tire and put Trans in Neutral, turn the drum backwards as you pull on it, like you said the truck can roll backwards, if you can get access to a shoe then open bleeder and push shoe in to collapse the slave even more
You can pull off the brake line at the slave and open bleeder that should drain most of the fluid out so just the springs are holding the shoes
You need to plug the brake line or fluid will continue to leak out, draining the Master
No, removing the slave bolts won't release the shoes, there is an anchor pin just above it that will still hold everything in place
And the axle hub prevents pulling off the drum with shoes inside in any case, see pictures in below link
Best bet is to collapse the shoes enough to get the drum off
Anchor seen here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...es-brake3a.jpg
Good read, with pictures, here from schenkm on Ranger rear brakes: https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...-brakes-81906/
Last edited by RonD; Dec 20, 2018 at 11:32 AM.
Only 2 sizes, 9" or 10", and the drums look very different
Seen here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/drivet...m-size-135609/
Post #4
Seen here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/drivet...m-size-135609/
Post #4
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