1999 2.5L 4 cylinder dies on me when changing gears
1999 2.5L 4 cylinder dies on me when changing gears
Hi,
I have a 2wd 1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L 4 cylinder and I have had this happen occasionally where my ranger will die on me when I first start change gears from drive to reverse after coasting around the yard little bit. It shakes when changing gears as well after driving 15 minutes or even an hour as well but doesn’t die on me. I’m not sure what it could be.
Also when I first start it and press the gas pedal I have to apply a bit more force to it when in drive or reverse. After that when I take turns, stop signs, driving, or starting it back up any other time of the day it doesn’t do that.
Why does the ranger die after changing gears a couple times and why is the gas pedal hard to press?
I have a 2wd 1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L 4 cylinder and I have had this happen occasionally where my ranger will die on me when I first start change gears from drive to reverse after coasting around the yard little bit. It shakes when changing gears as well after driving 15 minutes or even an hour as well but doesn’t die on me. I’m not sure what it could be.
Also when I first start it and press the gas pedal I have to apply a bit more force to it when in drive or reverse. After that when I take turns, stop signs, driving, or starting it back up any other time of the day it doesn’t do that.
Why does the ranger die after changing gears a couple times and why is the gas pedal hard to press?
First lube the gas pedal cable
Pull off the cable at the throttle plate in engine bay
Hold it up and spray lube inside the sheath, slide cable back and forth, make sure its no binding, should move easily, keep adding lube until it does, or replace cable
Open and close throttle manually, make sure its not binding
As for the stalling
Idle is too low most likely
IAC Valve is the idle control valve that the computer operates by sending it 5 to 12volts
See if its working like this:
Cold start idle should be 1,000rpm, high, if not IAC is not working
Then as engine warms up idle should go down to about 800rpm
This means the IAC Valve and ECT sensor are both working, and the computer
After engine is warmed up and idling
Unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve, RPMs should drop and engine may even stall, which is OK, but there is an adjustment you can use, its NOT the problem but may prevent the stall
On the throttle linkage, where you just were working, there is a screw, it looks like an idle screw but its NOT
Its the anti-diesel screw, fuel injection can't use an idle screw, just FYI
If engine stalled turn that screw 1/2 a turn Clockwise
Restart engine, IAC Valve still unplugged
Se if it will idle
If it stalls again turn screw another 1/2 turn clock wise
restart
Engine should now idle, barely
Plug IAC valve back in and RPMs should go up, if not IAC Valve is bad
Put transmission in R or D, RPMs should go up a bit, if not transmission range sensor may be bad, but there should be a code set for that, get codes read
Pull off the cable at the throttle plate in engine bay
Hold it up and spray lube inside the sheath, slide cable back and forth, make sure its no binding, should move easily, keep adding lube until it does, or replace cable
Open and close throttle manually, make sure its not binding
As for the stalling
Idle is too low most likely
IAC Valve is the idle control valve that the computer operates by sending it 5 to 12volts
See if its working like this:
Cold start idle should be 1,000rpm, high, if not IAC is not working
Then as engine warms up idle should go down to about 800rpm
This means the IAC Valve and ECT sensor are both working, and the computer
After engine is warmed up and idling
Unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve, RPMs should drop and engine may even stall, which is OK, but there is an adjustment you can use, its NOT the problem but may prevent the stall
On the throttle linkage, where you just were working, there is a screw, it looks like an idle screw but its NOT
Its the anti-diesel screw, fuel injection can't use an idle screw, just FYI
If engine stalled turn that screw 1/2 a turn Clockwise
Restart engine, IAC Valve still unplugged
Se if it will idle
If it stalls again turn screw another 1/2 turn clock wise
restart
Engine should now idle, barely
Plug IAC valve back in and RPMs should go up, if not IAC Valve is bad
Put transmission in R or D, RPMs should go up a bit, if not transmission range sensor may be bad, but there should be a code set for that, get codes read
First lube the gas pedal cable
Pull off the cable at the throttle plate in engine bay
Hold it up and spray lube inside the sheath, slide cable back and forth, make sure its no binding, should move easily, keep adding lube until it does, or replace cable
Open and close throttle manually, make sure its not binding
As for the stalling
Idle is too low most likely
IAC Valve is the idle control valve that the computer operates by sending it 5 to 12volts
See if its working like this:
Cold start idle should be 1,000rpm, high, if not IAC is not working
Then as engine warms up idle should go down to about 800rpm
This means the IAC Valve and ECT sensor are both working, and the computer
After engine is warmed up and idling
Unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve, RPMs should drop and engine may even stall, which is OK, but there is an adjustment you can use, its NOT the problem but may prevent the stall
On the throttle linkage, where you just were working, there is a screw, it looks like an idle screw but its NOT
Its the anti-diesel screw, fuel injection can't use an idle screw, just FYI
If engine stalled turn that screw 1/2 a turn Clockwise
Restart engine, IAC Valve still unplugged
Se if it will idle
If it stalls again turn screw another 1/2 turn clock wise
restart
Engine should now idle, barely
Plug IAC valve back in and RPMs should go up, if not IAC Valve is bad
Put transmission in R or D, RPMs should go up a bit, if not transmission range sensor may be bad, but there should be a code set for that, get codes read
Pull off the cable at the throttle plate in engine bay
Hold it up and spray lube inside the sheath, slide cable back and forth, make sure its no binding, should move easily, keep adding lube until it does, or replace cable
Open and close throttle manually, make sure its not binding
As for the stalling
Idle is too low most likely
IAC Valve is the idle control valve that the computer operates by sending it 5 to 12volts
See if its working like this:
Cold start idle should be 1,000rpm, high, if not IAC is not working
Then as engine warms up idle should go down to about 800rpm
This means the IAC Valve and ECT sensor are both working, and the computer
After engine is warmed up and idling
Unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve, RPMs should drop and engine may even stall, which is OK, but there is an adjustment you can use, its NOT the problem but may prevent the stall
On the throttle linkage, where you just were working, there is a screw, it looks like an idle screw but its NOT
Its the anti-diesel screw, fuel injection can't use an idle screw, just FYI
If engine stalled turn that screw 1/2 a turn Clockwise
Restart engine, IAC Valve still unplugged
Se if it will idle
If it stalls again turn screw another 1/2 turn clock wise
restart
Engine should now idle, barely
Plug IAC valve back in and RPMs should go up, if not IAC Valve is bad
Put transmission in R or D, RPMs should go up a bit, if not transmission range sensor may be bad, but there should be a code set for that, get codes read
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