So this is my first post here and the subreddit for the ranger is just filled up people bragging about their rangers and posting movies. No help whatsoever from there.

So, I recently started having issues with my starter and fender starter solenoid.
Ive ordered both 1 fender solenoid and 1 starter from Rockauto.....(Their returns process sucks!)
I installed both, I got my truck to start and crank second try. (It was SUPER cold and hadn't been started in weeks. So I had to prime it and get it to warm up. Never stalled luckily. I managed to tune the carb for the cold weather.

I then came out to try and start my truck to go to pick my brother up so we could go to dinner before he had to leave town.

When I went to start my truck I just heard spinning. A sound I know way to well. The sound of the starter just spinning inside itself. I then pulled it off and tightened it just to make sure it was tightly bolted and had good ground.... Once I got it bolted back on I tried to start my truck and it kicked the bendix out for a second and then the fender solenoid just stuck and the starter kept spinning inside itself until I pulled the battery.


I am wondering if my issue it my solenoid or my starter. Ive got a replacement solenoid coming in Wednesday. For my starter, Ive got to PAY to send it back and wait for them to refund me for it before I can BUY the replacement. BS I know. So ATM. Ive got a solenoid coming in the mail (hoping it works) and a starter which Im gonna take to a auto part store to test and see if it still works in anyway.

 

Welcome to the forum

Yes, starter RELAY was most likely defective, it should handle up to 80amps without being welded together(stuck ON)

I would check the smaller red/blue stripe wire on the "S" post to make sure it only has 12volts when key is turned to START, faulty ignition switch can continue to send 12volts to the relay when you let off key to RUN position

Just unhook it(the "S" wire) and put a test light or volt meter on it so you can see it from the cab and cycle key to START several times just to make sure the 12volts is cut off when not in START

If you get a 4 post starter relay, there will be 2 smaller posts, "S" and "I", "I" post is not used, red/blue wire goes to "S" post
Also one of the lager posts has positive battery cable on it with a few other wires, thats the power distribution for the whole vehicle
The other larger post should have ONLY 1 WIRE/CABLE that runs to starter motor

Whats happening to start motor is that its moving away from the ring gear after a few starts, so just spins

What may have happened in the past is that some one removed the block plate and never put it back
Its the thin metal plate between engine block and bell housing, it has a hole that lines up and keeps starter motor from shifting

Also there is the 10 tooth fix
Google: ford ranger 2.8l starter issues 10 tooth