Hi guys, so today I bought a second ranger. Its a 04 4.0 4x4. Was originally a 2WD that was converted to 4x4 by a ford mechanic as a hobby. Any who I have bought it off a friend. I bought it for a snow plow truck to save my good truck from taking a beating from the snow plow. Thing is with it that it runs good drives good, which is why I bought it, however after so long it will shut off randomly. My friend ( guy I bought it from ) said its because the spedometer isn't working. Truck doesn't show the speed that it does. Is this is half easy fix?

Thanks.

 

Is it a Manual or Automatic?

Automatic wouldn't shift well without speed working so I assume Manual trans.

On most 4WD Rangers the Speed sensor(VSS) for speedo and computer was on the Transfer case output shaft.

But since this truck was not originally a 4WD you need to look on the transfer case for speed sensor location
Image here for 4WD automatic: http://0.tqn.com/w/experts/4-Wheel-D...smission_1.png

Speed sensor(VSS) at the rear

Mechanic may have swapped in an older 4.0l trans and transfer case, they were used from 1990 to 2000

These used a Gear drive but VSS could still be used, gear could be changed to correct speed on speedometer
Later models used a Tone Wheel so needed external speed correction, done by 4 wheel ABS module or GEM

So you need to find out what you have first, then go from there

Engine stalling because of no speed sensor would not be common, never even heard of that.
If you have an automatic then I could see it stall when coming to a stop because torque converter was not unlocking, but you would also have shifting problems which are not mentioned

 

It is Manual. Shifts fine, drives good. Just randomly it will shut off. I have been doing some digging online how likely is it that it is a Inertia switch?

I will drive for a while up the road say 10 minutes sometimes or 30 minutes it will shut off randomly ( truck just stall ). So then I turn the key again ( to turn the vehicle on )and continue driving. I took some pictures of underneath to show you what the back looks like by the driveshaft. Don't mind how rusty it looks, plow truck for my driveway primarily and then parts truck over time.

As well just want to add, Battery needs to be replaced as its basically flat. Have to boost it to get her to run on a cold day.
Additionally Speedometer doesnt work

 

VSS hole on transfer case tail shaft is there but plugged up in newer casting, so unusable.
You could replace transfer case with newer model(2001 and up) that has the hole and tone wheel inside on tail shaft.

In 2001 Rangers got OSS(output shaft sensor), on tail shaft(2WD or 4WD), which ran directly to the Computer(PCM)
PCM corrected for "true speed" based on axle ratio and tire size then sent out that "VSS" signal to the speedo, GEM, 4WD module, and Cruise.

OSS and VSS sensors are both Variable Reluctance(VR) sensors(2 wire), so produce the same AC signal.

I think the "easiest" thing would be to find the OSS sensor 2-wire connector, should be hanging or taped up near the tail shaft area.

You will run those wires to a unit like this: Universal Speedometer Signal Interface
Connect them to OUT, because they run to the PCM

Then run 2 wires from that interface's IN to the ABS rear axle VSS sensor and splice them in to that sensor.

The rear axle VSS counts rotations of the axle/tire, AFTER the 3 or 4 to 1 ratio differential
OSS sensor counts Drive shaft rotations so will be 3 or 4 times faster, i.e. 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 ratios
The interface is needed to correct that difference so PCM can send out "true speed"



Inertia switch will cut power to fuel pump, but usually would need to be reset, push the button on the top, before power would be restored, turning key off and on wouldn't reset it.

The inertia switch is in the cab, so can be useful to diagnose fuel system power issue.
If you hook up a test light to it and a Ground you can see if power is being cut while driving.
That would mean fuel pump relay is shutting off, which could be a relay problem or computer wiring problem.
Fuel pump relay only cost $6-$8, just a standard 12v relay, so many just replace it on speculation.


And just as an FYI, "they" are making the Shiftster again.
The electric shift transfer case is nice BUT.............can fail for several reasons.
Since "shift on the fly" probably won't be that useful for you the Shiftster might be a good change
It bolts on to transfer case in place of the electric shift motor, allowing you to manually shift the transfer case.
Yes, you do have to get under the vehicle to do that!!!

But you CAN do that, when electric shift fails, and they all do fail, you CAN'T shift, and you don't know electric shift has failed until you do NEED IT, lol.

 

That shifter is quite cool! , is it possible to turn the transfer case manual with a set of vice grips in case it fails in the mean time? Additionally , much appreciate the information. Going to continue and troubleshoot the random shutting off as you mentioned.

Hopefully its just a fuel pump relay or something simple. It has a check engine light on as well, i will pull the code.

 

Transfer case shifter image here: 1354transfer.jpg Photo by jds3403 | Photobucket
Electric motor removed

2H = 2WD High

Shift rod starts at 2H then rotates counter-clockwise 270deg to 4L where it stops, to go back to 2H you have to rotate back clockwise.

Problem is there are no detents, you can use visegrips but you will need to leave them there and tie them off, so shift rod stay put.
You can try leaving it in 4H and usually it will stay there, but there is nothing to keep it there, lol.

And just FYI opposite 2H is Neutral
2H-4H-Neutral-4L

Shiftster doesn't have a Neutral but you can add it if needed, just drill a hole for the detent, great if you ever need to tow it

Manual shift **** image here: http://www.explorerforum.com/photopo...12_Medium_.jpg

No, you can't convert electric to manual, totally different shift rod placement

 

Information much appreciated. I have been doing some work to the plow truck to get her winter ready. Decided to bedline most of it's body and then undercoat it. Couple questions Ron.

My plow truck will be getting a light duty suv plow to the front of it. I plan on using the brackets that are already bolted to the front of the truck ( holds the bull bar on , bolted to the chassis ). Any ideas on how I could strengthen up the frame a bit more? I like to build things properly and always look for better ways to do things.

Additionally, Pulled the Check engine code with regards of it shutting off randomly ( engine stalling randomly. ) The plow truck has P0446. Would this contribute to the random shutting off? Going to go through the wire harness tomorrow and see if there area any signs of shorting, as well I will test power going to the fuel pump.

 

P0446 is an EVAP system code.

So probably not related to engine shutting off, but read on
EVAP system creates negative pressure in the gas tank, using engine vacuum.
There is a vacuum hose from the intake manifold going to EVAP solenoid
And then a vacuum line from EVAP solenoid to the Charcoal canister(rad support area)
And then a long vacuum line from canister to gas tank

Intake------solenoid-----canister--------------------gas tank

Now if there was a vacuum leak in the line from solenoid to canister..............
When computer opened solenoid that could create enough of an air leak to cause a Lean mix stall.
Long shot but worth a look at that line.

Not sure about attachment points for the plow, I think the 4x4 frames already have fairly good cross bracing.
You will need to add weight to the bed, or that front end weight will cause back end to get squirrely

 

Hi Ron, did some work and troubleshooting with the Ranger again today. Good news, and some bad news.

Good news ,truck isnt shutting off anymore. I installed a new battery in it today as a test. I took the truck for a spin, and it didn't shut off at all. Will test the Evap system for a air leak as well.

Bad News, the plow truck kills batteries. I put a good ( older battery ) in the truck recently and it was working fine. However Today I quickly noticed after the battery went flat that the truck doesnt kill the power when you turn it off and take the key out. The wipers can still move, the stereo can still come on, etc. Is there a way to check into this and see what the PO might have done? Is it safe to hook up an electrical Kill switch right off the battery leads? I'd like to find out why its maintaining power while the truck is shut off as I can't be going through batteries.

Thanks

 

First test battery with engine off, should be 12.3 to 12.8volts

Then engine running, should be 13.5volts to 14.9volts
14.9volts just after startup, then a slow drop to 13.5v after 5 minutes of running
That means alternator is working

If you have lower than 13volts then alternator is bad and that could drain battery when engine is off.

If alternator checks out then I would
Turn key off and turn wipers on
Then start pulling larger amp fuses in the engine fuse box, the 40 and 50amp fuses, when wipers stop thats most likely the problem circuit

Go here to get owners manual to see what fuses power what systems: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

There is a fuse for the ignition switch, switch could be shorted and not turning off power to "key on" systems


Yes you can use an older style fender mounted Starter Relay(solenoid) on the positive or negative battery cable to cut power, they are not designed to stay closed for long periods of time, but can handle the amps.
I would get 2, and have a spare to swap in if needed
Running high amps thru a relay heats it up, Startup is 175amps then vehicle running is a steady 60amps, 70amp with lights and heater fan running.
Starter relays are designed for the 175amps but only for 30-60 second of cranking starter motor, then they are open, no amps, until needed again