Hi All,
New to the site but I've owned Rangers and had one as a work truck, that was about 10 years ago, so it seemed like the best choice for me as a rig to tow behind a motorhome. I'm now the owner of a 2010 XLT 4x4 with an automatic transmission. I'd always heard that the Ranger could be flat towed so I bought this one only to discover I need to install the "Neutral Tow Kit" that the owners manual says is needed to flat tow. As many of you know, it is no longer available either through Ford or even after market. Anybody else have this same problem that can/will share how they resolved this.

I found a real nice 2010 with 39,560 miles that was government owned and CarFax showed full ownership details as well as service history. I really like the truck but need to resolve this so I don't have to part with it after only 3 weeks. Thanks for your help.

 

I used to do the DRP... (Driveshaft Removal Procedure) ! USED TO... I don't tow The Ranger anymore !
No additional wires or mechanical add-ons.

I would disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle 4-bolts and secure the end of the driveshaft on the frame near the read axle.
The first couple of times it was a PITA, but after you get a secure mounting point on the frame for the driveshaft and getting used to undoing the bolts... it appears easy.

 

On a 2010 removing rear drive shaft is not a good option
Well 2001 to 2011
That's because they have full time locked front axle/driveshaft, so transfer case would still be spinning but without the pump which is driven by rear drive shaft

On earlier years with manual or automatic hubs it would be OK

Transfer case Neutral shift would be the only option for flat towing on those later years, so rear drive shaft would still be driving the pump while towing

 

I always thought the front wheels wouldn't engage until power was applied to the transfer case, i.e put it in 4x.

Thanks

 

On the Live axles, or if manual hubs are locked, the front drive shaft will turn and the chain drive inside transfer case will as well
But its not "locked" at the transfer cases main shaft so just spins, there should be enough fluid splashing around but from the chain spinning but no internal lubrication

General diagram here of chain drive transfer case: https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/g...ng:webp/ngcb32

Top is connected to transmission
the front drive shaft, in this case, would spin the chain drive on the main shaft as front wheels turned
Its free to rotate because its not locked to the main shaft
oil pump is on the main shaft, just below chain gear but no connection to it, it wouldn't be pumping if rear drive shaft wasn't turning the main shaft
And if you shifted it to 4high, main shaft would turn and pump would be on but............transmission would be spinning, lol, which is what we want to avoid