Greetings all. I have inherited a 2002 4.0 4x4 5 speed. About 127k car was purchased new by my aunts parents in Colorado where it lived till coming to her in Washington in about 2017.

I picked it up on Sunday and was told “it doesn’t start, needs the cluster replaced (I got a used one with the truck), the radio doesn’t work, and the lock remotes don’t work (I have tested the batteries, both are 3+v)”

I was able to get it started by jumping terminals 30 and 87 for the starter relay. Replaced the alternator in the driveway as it was not holding a charge and drove it home. During the drive, the speedometer and odometer do not work, the rest of the cluster (minus some back lights) seem to work fine.

I have started diagnosing the no crank issue and have found that 12v is not supplied to fuse 24 when the key is turned to start. Based off the limited wire diagram I have and the reading I have done here already, that should be applied from the ignition switch, when turned to start. Indicating either the switch or wiring between the two is bad, simple enough. I am plenty capable of that work. EDIT: I have applied 12v via a jumper to fuse 24, and the starter engaged/ truck started, thus confirming the “upstream” problem

before I start chasing that down, is there any kind of likelihood that all of the issues are related to the PATS system? I have at no point seen any kind of theft light displayed on the cluster to show any kind of indication of if it is working or not.

 

No, not PATS related because the engine started
PATS main theft deterrence is it cuts off Fuel injectors and fuel pump so computer is disabled, so no way the engine would start

The starter disable was just easy to add, and not much of an anti-theft since YOU got starter to work, lol, in any case PATS disables the GROUND at starter relay not the 12volts
So yes, most likely ignition switch issue since that 12v goes directly to fuse 24 and then out to neutral switch and there starter relay

 

Ignition switch got it up and running normally, thanks for confirming my thought process.

radio is testing as dead, that resolves that. I guess this old truck will get an upgrade

Remotes reprogrammed fine

I have the dash covers out to replace the cluster. Is there any programming to do once replaced? I would rather not unplug/swap and leave the car stranded. The cluster I have is from an automatic, looks like I can just pull the position indicator out, correct?

 

No programming required 1983 to 2003 Ranger clusters, 2004 and up had the digital dashes, which needed to be "matched" to vehicle
Yes, the PRND21 should just come out and be replace with black one from old cluster

1996-2003 Ranger clusters are interchangeable, plug and play
Replace all 6 back light bulbs on the cluster that's going in

Speedometer/odometer both share one signal wire from the PCM(engine computer), the PCM is programmable for rear axle ratio and tire size to calibrate speedo/odo, cluster just uses the signal its sent, so doesn't matter what clusters original truck had for ratio and tire size

Factory radio also gets 12v from fuse 24 when key is in START, that's to MUTE radio on startup, it's just a heads up if you put in a 3rd party radio, do NOT use that wire, lol, usually a Red/Black stripe wire

 

Replacement cluster is in and working correctly! Thanks for all the help, Ron.
now it’s on to aesthetics . New radio, new fog lights (cracked lenses), jump seat storage, and some other things. But those things don’t need to clutter up this section.