PLEASE HELP! TRANNY PROBLEMS!
PLEASE HELP! TRANNY PROBLEMS!
I HAVE A 2008 FORD RANGER WITH 101K MILES. 2.3L WITH 5R55E TRANNY.
I PURCHASED THE TRUCK ONE MONTH AGO AND THERE WAS NO ISSUE
THESE ARE THE SYMPTOMS!
Manual 1 works.
Manual 2 works.
Drive Engages... will creep forward if truck is over 3-3500 RPM only.
Reverse Engages... will creep in revese if truck is around 3,000 RPM.
Park- As usual.
IT'S THROWING THESE 2 CODES
P0731-FF
P0733-FF
IF I START DRIVING IN MANUAL 1ST AND MANUALLY SHIFT FROM 1ST TO 2ND TO D IT WORKS FINE UNTIL I COME TO A STOP AND I HAVE TO START ALL OVER. I JUST REPLACED THE FLUID AND FILTER AFTER THE PROBLEMS STARTED THINKING MAYBE IT NEEDED A SERVICE. ALSO CHANGED THE OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR. AND THE FLUID WAS A DARK BROWN/PINK COLOR BUT DID NOT SMELL BURNT AT ALL. TRUCK STILL DRIVES IN D BUT DOESN'T FEEL LIKE ITS COMPLETELY ENGAGED LIKE IT DOES WHEN I START DRIVING IN 1ST
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!
I PURCHASED THE TRUCK ONE MONTH AGO AND THERE WAS NO ISSUE
THESE ARE THE SYMPTOMS!
Manual 1 works.
Manual 2 works.
Drive Engages... will creep forward if truck is over 3-3500 RPM only.
Reverse Engages... will creep in revese if truck is around 3,000 RPM.
Park- As usual.
IT'S THROWING THESE 2 CODES
P0731-FF
P0733-FF
IF I START DRIVING IN MANUAL 1ST AND MANUALLY SHIFT FROM 1ST TO 2ND TO D IT WORKS FINE UNTIL I COME TO A STOP AND I HAVE TO START ALL OVER. I JUST REPLACED THE FLUID AND FILTER AFTER THE PROBLEMS STARTED THINKING MAYBE IT NEEDED A SERVICE. ALSO CHANGED THE OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR. AND THE FLUID WAS A DARK BROWN/PINK COLOR BUT DID NOT SMELL BURNT AT ALL. TRUCK STILL DRIVES IN D BUT DOESN'T FEEL LIKE ITS COMPLETELY ENGAGED LIKE IT DOES WHEN I START DRIVING IN 1ST
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!
Welcome to the forum
Turn CAPS OFF VERY HARD TO READ YOUR POST THIS WAY
Your problem won't be solved with transmission in the vehicle, it will need to come out
At the very least you have a Forward one-way clutch issue and most likely a major internal fluid leak or failing main pump.
Automatics run on pressure, reverse takes the highest pressure to work so it is often the first gear people notice a problem with, slow to engage and higher RPMs needed, higher RPMs creates higher pressure.
There are no "gears" in an automatic, just ratios changes, the forward one-way clutch allows smooth changes in ratios before engaging fully, slipping means it is not engaging fully, this could be because there is not enough pressure to engage it and hold it.
A transmission shop can hook up pressure gauges to tell whats going on inside transmission.
When you changed fluid did you see any signs of recent work on the transmission?
The codes mean transmission is not fully locked "into a gear" ratio, its slipping
Turn CAPS OFF VERY HARD TO READ YOUR POST THIS WAY
Your problem won't be solved with transmission in the vehicle, it will need to come out
At the very least you have a Forward one-way clutch issue and most likely a major internal fluid leak or failing main pump.
Automatics run on pressure, reverse takes the highest pressure to work so it is often the first gear people notice a problem with, slow to engage and higher RPMs needed, higher RPMs creates higher pressure.
There are no "gears" in an automatic, just ratios changes, the forward one-way clutch allows smooth changes in ratios before engaging fully, slipping means it is not engaging fully, this could be because there is not enough pressure to engage it and hold it.
A transmission shop can hook up pressure gauges to tell whats going on inside transmission.
When you changed fluid did you see any signs of recent work on the transmission?
The codes mean transmission is not fully locked "into a gear" ratio, its slipping
Sorry about that caps. I always forget to turn it off when I'm on my work computer.
No I didn't see any signs in work. It honestly looked like it never has been serviced. There was a little sludge and the bottom of the pan.
No I didn't see any signs in work. It honestly looked like it never has been serviced. There was a little sludge and the bottom of the pan.
You can try a bottle of Lucas ATF fix, it was probably used by previous owner.
Transmission Fix fluid has a friction modifier, which helps slipping clutches and an additive that swells seals and gaskets to help slow any internal leaks.
Not a "fix" of course
And you have a 5R44E in a 2.3l, 5R55E was in the 4.0l only
Doesn't matter really, same transmission just a few beefed up parts for the 4.0l torque
Transmission Fix fluid has a friction modifier, which helps slipping clutches and an additive that swells seals and gaskets to help slow any internal leaks.
Not a "fix" of course
And you have a 5R44E in a 2.3l, 5R55E was in the 4.0l only
Doesn't matter really, same transmission just a few beefed up parts for the 4.0l torque
Look at the engine :)
2.3l and 3.0l got the 5R44E
4.0l got the 5R55E
One is not better than the other, nor does either last longer than the other, just slight difference for the higher torque of the 4.0l
They have the same TRANS CODE, so VIN would probably come up with 5R55E for any Ranger entered, details might show "44E OR 55E based on engine model"
2.3l and 3.0l got the 5R44E
4.0l got the 5R55E
One is not better than the other, nor does either last longer than the other, just slight difference for the higher torque of the 4.0l
They have the same TRANS CODE, so VIN would probably come up with 5R55E for any Ranger entered, details might show "44E OR 55E based on engine model"
Just went through the same thing with my '03. Your overdrive sprag is broke. $2,500 and three days later and I have a rebuilt transmission from a local shop.
Oh, and they found one of the sensor wires up in the top of the case with no insulation, so add another fifty bucks.
Oh, and they found one of the sensor wires up in the top of the case with no insulation, so add another fifty bucks.
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aweiss2k
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Apr 21, 2006 08:28 AM



