power door lock issues
power door lock issues
I am going to tinker with my door locks next, but figure I would ask if anyone had any advice before I tear into it.
The best way I know how do describe it is that the locks "run out of power". Usually on the first push they will work. Push unlock and they will unlock. But then if I immediately push lock they dont have the power to lock all the way. And each subsequent push there is less and less movement to the point where they dont even jiggle. There is no difference this between the pass and drives side switches so it is something that is common to both sides. It does not matter which way they are to begin, lock or unlock, first attempt works and then after that it degrades with each attempt until I leave it be for awhile and then it "recharges"....thats the only way I know how to describe it.
Any ideas on where to start? My first direction is going to be to clean all contacts and grounds I can find.
The best way I know how do describe it is that the locks "run out of power". Usually on the first push they will work. Push unlock and they will unlock. But then if I immediately push lock they dont have the power to lock all the way. And each subsequent push there is less and less movement to the point where they dont even jiggle. There is no difference this between the pass and drives side switches so it is something that is common to both sides. It does not matter which way they are to begin, lock or unlock, first attempt works and then after that it degrades with each attempt until I leave it be for awhile and then it "recharges"....thats the only way I know how to describe it.
Any ideas on where to start? My first direction is going to be to clean all contacts and grounds I can find.
Your symptoms are either reducing power or temperature in the solinoids building up and causing more and more friction.
I'd guess power first. Kinda doubt the solinoids would be that corroded and failing *both* at the same time. Does this get any better with the engine running or a charger hooked up to the battery? If it's better.. then I'd check the battery at a parts store. If it stays the same I'd look into the ground connections. If those don't pan out.. I'd then look into the mechanical resistance or friction of the lock mechanism. Then and only then would I consider the solinoids to be bad. I seriously doubt they'd both go at the same time..
Rich
I'd guess power first. Kinda doubt the solinoids would be that corroded and failing *both* at the same time. Does this get any better with the engine running or a charger hooked up to the battery? If it's better.. then I'd check the battery at a parts store. If it stays the same I'd look into the ground connections. If those don't pan out.. I'd then look into the mechanical resistance or friction of the lock mechanism. Then and only then would I consider the solinoids to be bad. I seriously doubt they'd both go at the same time..
Rich
no difference with truck running or not. It eventually gets to the point where they dont respond at all to the switches...then later work for about one try. Its really pretty odd! Still feeling grounds and cleaning contacts is a good direction to start.
Mines been doing the same thing but only on the passenger side. I just havent had to time dig into it. Mines pretty random sometimes it will and sometimes it wont, but more often it wont unlock or lock.
I could see the overheating solenoid argument. I'm not sure how the STOCK system is wired, but if those two are on a bus (tied together), then one overheating and shorting out is going to steal current from the other one. Try disconnecting one at a time and see if it helps.
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