2010 Heater Core Replacement
#1
10-03-2023
2010 Heater Core Replacement
New to me Ranger. Needed some things and one was a heater core. U tube has no good tutorials so coukd use some help. I do have the dash out, and moved the evap core under the hood. I removed three of the nuts holding the heater box to the firewall and know there is at least one more behind the valve cover. Is there a secret to getting at this? I can feel it but not enough room to get a wrench on it. Are there only 4 of these nuts or more behind the evap core? If anyone has a good pdf of this process it would help. Thanks
#2
10-03-2023
#3
10-04-2023
Well the U tube info sucks so I will try to write up what I find here. It is not easy, and no the dash won't come out in an hour. I am by myself so its harder. Here goes
1) Remove heater hoses. You need a set of pliars to hold the clamps open. I stuffed a 1/2 drive socket in each to keep them from leaking coolant.
2) You do have to move back the evap core in the engine compartment. It's the cover with the aluminum hoses going into in on the passenger side. I think there are three bolts holding it to the firewall. Once those are off you need to slide it back about 1". I think the bolt size is #10.
3) When you pull it back you will see one aluminum looking nut and washer in the middle of the evap core on the firewall. Its is 7/16 wrench. To the left of this is another one, remove that. The third ones is behind the valve cover, down low. I have a V6 so could not get it from top so I removed the inner fender and could get at it pretty easy from the bottom. Inside just at the top of the carpet on the passenger side firewall is a similar nut. You have to remove that. I do think there is a 5th one somewhere in the middle of the heater box but have not found that yet (help)
4) I removed the glove box. 2 # 3 head screws
5) I removed the air bag. Remember to disconnect the battery. The bolts for this are simply above the glove box. I think 3 #10 screws. Unplug the air bag and put it in the back. You really don't have to remove this but its heavy and makes things easier.
6) Remove the radio. Two #8 socket head screws under the radio shelf. Once those are out simpy pry the bexel out and the radio will come with it. You will have to remove the wires and plugs.
7) Get ready to remove the dash, take the 2 #8 headed screws out from the hood release. They are on the hood release bracket.
8) Remove the parking brake bracket, 2 # 8 headed screws just like the hood release
9) Remove the fuse cover to access two of the dash brackets, remove those. They are 1/2 Socket
10) Disconnect the steering knuckle pinch bolt. Its a #13 headed bolt on the universal joint abut 1/2 between the dash and firewall. I would try to have the steering wheel in a place where you can get easy access to the bolt
11) On the top of the dash is a grill to let out of the defroster. Remover that using a plastic pry tool. It simply pops up and is held in by plastic clamp pins
12) On th passenger side remove the kick panel trim. Its only held in by push clamps.
13) There is one 1/2 blot there remove that
14) I would remove the coin tray. Two Phillips screws under the pad
15) On the top of the dash, there are two other 1/2 bolts holding the dash to the firewall. Remove them. By now the dash will be somewhat free. If you have two people slowly move the dash back. I had to remove some of the main electrical connectios, and I think the throttle cable. The more you move the dash back the better.
16) By now the heater box should be able to slide back but I am stuck here. I think there is one more bolt somewhere in the middle of the heater box but its not viewable. I will work on this tomorrow but it anyone can show me its helpful
17) There is one more stud in the middle of the firewall for the heater box. I had to move the computer wires to get at it. Its about 1’ down in a recess, bear to get at. So in total 5 studs holding the heater core. Two behind the evap core, one just to the right of the evap core, one hehind the valve cover on a 6 cyl, one in the middle of the firewall, and one on the inside, bottom of the footwell on the firewall
BTW if you have the inner fender off, change that last spark plug. You can't get to it from on top and even with the inner fender off its a bear
1) Remove heater hoses. You need a set of pliars to hold the clamps open. I stuffed a 1/2 drive socket in each to keep them from leaking coolant.
2) You do have to move back the evap core in the engine compartment. It's the cover with the aluminum hoses going into in on the passenger side. I think there are three bolts holding it to the firewall. Once those are off you need to slide it back about 1". I think the bolt size is #10.
3) When you pull it back you will see one aluminum looking nut and washer in the middle of the evap core on the firewall. Its is 7/16 wrench. To the left of this is another one, remove that. The third ones is behind the valve cover, down low. I have a V6 so could not get it from top so I removed the inner fender and could get at it pretty easy from the bottom. Inside just at the top of the carpet on the passenger side firewall is a similar nut. You have to remove that. I do think there is a 5th one somewhere in the middle of the heater box but have not found that yet (help)
4) I removed the glove box. 2 # 3 head screws
5) I removed the air bag. Remember to disconnect the battery. The bolts for this are simply above the glove box. I think 3 #10 screws. Unplug the air bag and put it in the back. You really don't have to remove this but its heavy and makes things easier.
6) Remove the radio. Two #8 socket head screws under the radio shelf. Once those are out simpy pry the bexel out and the radio will come with it. You will have to remove the wires and plugs.
7) Get ready to remove the dash, take the 2 #8 headed screws out from the hood release. They are on the hood release bracket.
8) Remove the parking brake bracket, 2 # 8 headed screws just like the hood release
9) Remove the fuse cover to access two of the dash brackets, remove those. They are 1/2 Socket
10) Disconnect the steering knuckle pinch bolt. Its a #13 headed bolt on the universal joint abut 1/2 between the dash and firewall. I would try to have the steering wheel in a place where you can get easy access to the bolt
11) On the top of the dash is a grill to let out of the defroster. Remover that using a plastic pry tool. It simply pops up and is held in by plastic clamp pins
12) On th passenger side remove the kick panel trim. Its only held in by push clamps.
13) There is one 1/2 blot there remove that
14) I would remove the coin tray. Two Phillips screws under the pad
15) On the top of the dash, there are two other 1/2 bolts holding the dash to the firewall. Remove them. By now the dash will be somewhat free. If you have two people slowly move the dash back. I had to remove some of the main electrical connectios, and I think the throttle cable. The more you move the dash back the better.
16) By now the heater box should be able to slide back but I am stuck here. I think there is one more bolt somewhere in the middle of the heater box but its not viewable. I will work on this tomorrow but it anyone can show me its helpful
17) There is one more stud in the middle of the firewall for the heater box. I had to move the computer wires to get at it. Its about 1’ down in a recess, bear to get at. So in total 5 studs holding the heater core. Two behind the evap core, one just to the right of the evap core, one hehind the valve cover on a 6 cyl, one in the middle of the firewall, and one on the inside, bottom of the footwell on the firewall
BTW if you have the inner fender off, change that last spark plug. You can't get to it from on top and even with the inner fender off its a bear
Last edited by Stutz; 10-07-2023 at 05:40 AM. Reason: Add on
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