Whats up guys. I recently got a 2004 3.0 5 speed with just under 130k miles. Been a great truck so far and 0 major issues. Im pretty sure the TOB is headed out the door due to the chatter with the clutch in and during reverse. Plan to do clutch/pp/fw/TOB/pb/slave sometime in the next couple months (assuming the tob lasts that long). Probably doing rear main seal at the same time since its got a tiny leak. Water pump gasket has a small tear but no active leak, so ill probably replace that whole assembly as well.

Anyways, im glad to have found a great forum! i look forward to asking many questions lol.

 

Welcome to the forum

Trying to figure out what TOB was, then thought Throw Out Bearing, right?

Yes, if thats TOB then it would make a noise when clutch pedal was pressed down even a little.

Run finger around crank where main seal rides, if you feel even a slight bur then use a Sleeve kit seal, or leak will come back

 

yup, throw out bearing. thanks for the tip on the rear main. Just to clarify, you mean when i replace the rear main, to also use a sleeve kit seal? so that it doesnt damage the new rear main correct? please excuse my ignorance on the subject, im coming from the FWD hot hatch world so this whole transmission set up is new to me

 

Well sort of right

The main seals ride on smooth crank surfaces, during repairs this smooth surface can get a scratch, a bur, if you install a new seal this bur will damage the new seal over time and it will start to leak, again if it was leaking before.

Sleeve kits come with a thin sleeve that slides over the crank with a tight fit, it becomes the crank surface the new seal rides on, and an oversized seal that rides on the new smooth sleeve surface, so bur is no longer an issue.
This beats pulling out the crank to have it turned, to remove the scratch/bur.

You only need the sleeve kit IF crank surface is scratched, so after removing old seal run finger around crank to make sure surface is smooth