This isn’t going to be so much of a “project log” as it is going to be a maintenance and repair log.

I purchased a 2002 Ford Ranger XL 2.3L with the standard bed and a manual transmission this Monday. It was a work truck owned by a cabinet and tile company and was primarily used to move tile and wood samples to customers. Now it is my daily driver and weekend Home Depot/Lumber transporter (I do woodworking as a hobby on the weekends). I bought it for $2500 with almost 145,000 miles on it.

The Ranger (so far in my experience) runs like a top but has needed a few minor things. Here I’ll keep track of what I fix/replace, when I repair them, and costs associated with those things.

Things wrong with it when I got it:

• Cracked windshield (replaced 6/19, $388, overpaid but convenience trumps cost for this one)
• Front brake pads ready to be replaced (replaced 6/18, $100 with new rotors too)
• Leaking third brake light seal ($58, part en route)
• Door lock actuators are both bad ($10 each, part en route)
• Nail in one tire but no leak (patched on 6/18, $20)
• Torn seats (might get a seat cover... idk yet)
• Large dents on left and right side of bed (might pull them out later)
• Needs a smog, no codes but system is pending readiness for EGR and EVAP.
• Needs a new radio. Current one works but I’m going to spoil myself a bit here and get one with CarPlay and a backup camera
• Not sure it needed it but I changed the oil on 6/20 just as a matter of principle for a “new” used car purchase

I bought the Ranger to drive for the next few years as my wife and I pay down our new 19’ CRV. My goal is to spend as little money as possible keeping this truck comfortable to drive until the CRV is paid off and I can get something a little newer.

Upcoming (besides what is listed above):

Full tune up including:

• Spark plugs
• Spark plug wires
• Ignition coil

Plus:

• Replace brake fluid (pretty dirty)

 

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Welcome from Georgia. Good luck with your new truck.

 

Welcome to the forum

You have a 2.3l DOHC Duratec engine, its a Mazda L engine designated as 23NS, Ford branded it as Duratec

Rangers used the 2.3l SOHC Lima engines from 1983 to 1997, totally different engine, so if you google "Ranger 2.3l" you will get some conflicting info

2.3l Duratec was used in Rangers from mid-2001 to 2011, a slightly different version with turbo, 2.3l Ecoboost, is used in the 2019 Rangers

These are just a "heads up"
The 2001-2003 2.3l Duratec have IMRC(intake manifold runner control) which can cause problems, usually just cracked or broke vacuum lines
These years also have a Heated Thermostat, which is expensive to replace

All 2.3l Duratec's were made for transverse mounting in FWD Cars, they have a coolant hose connection in the back of the head, which can be seen when engine is mounted sideways, but in the Rangers its impossible to get at without dropping the transmission
So if you ever have access to the back of the engine, like changing the clutch disc, replace this hose and fitting just for general maintenance

The 2.3l Duratec was a very reliable motor
You have an M5OD-R1 manual transmission, also very reliable, it does use ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid, in a manual transmission

Pending readiness means battery was unhooked for at least 5 minutes.
EVAP takes the longest to come back, 3 to 6 drive cycles
EGR should only take 2 drive cycles

So any work planned that involves unhooking the battery, do it first, then you can get readiness back

Details here on getting it to pass readiness tests: http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

 

Thanks, Ron.

I’m fairly experienced with cars and have worked on several over the years, mostly Toyota’s, a Mazda and a Honda. In all that time, I’ve never seen a car take so long to get all the systems into a ready state. I’ve driven probably 15-20 drive cycles, maybe 5-6 on the freeway and the rest city. I’ve followed a few guides to get the EGR and EVAP systems to “ready” but so far nothing is working, it’s been about 250 miles at this point.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

I just rebuilt mine, It took close to 2 tanks of gas to get everything to "readiness" but I also hogged on it after it was warmed up to seat the rings in.

 

I will just go ahead and say the IMRC has always plagued me as an issue. Even after replacing the runner control solenoid it still doesn't operate properly.
And the Water neck started leaking on mine, during a very inconvenient point in my life. I ended up parking it for over 2 years because it needed that gasket replaced and at 213k, needed about every other gasket as well.
So if you are ever in there for a clutch or slave like he suggested, replace that and the water cooled EGR gasket. If you have it apart to this point, I suggest replacing the heater bypass hose as well. Above the starter there is a 3 way plastic fitting that is NOTORIOUS for breaking down over time and splitting. I will say without a doubt to replace it with the DORMAN replacement hose, #626528. Instead of a plastic 3 way junction, it uses aluminum and should never rot out. Or if it does, can be replaced without hacking the hoses up. 60 and some change from RockAuto.

If you ever need that trans rebuilt, you'll likely find that it is the most revised version, with a tag on the side that says "1L54" in which case RIP. I have the same one. I bought the last 1st gear synchro that Ford could find, and the 2nd gear 3 piece synchro isnt cheap either. Other than that, it uses all the same bearings and components as the "later" model 30 tooth 5th/reverse gear. I have synchromesh in mine, and it shifts like butter. The master to slave quick disconnect kinda sucks too, mine kept popping out and eventually I had that whole line replaced with a stainless braided hose with AN fittings.

Good luck with the truck, and enjoy it!

 

I would unhook battery and clear all tests so everything restarts, something is wrong, like you said this is not normal for any OBDII vehicle

 

Thanks for the great info everyone! Glad I found a helpful community.

Darn. Yeah, I thought about doing that but didn’t want to pull the trigger on it because it took 50 miles to get the Cat monitor to readiness too. I’ll drive it until this weekend and if no change I’ll pull the battery terminal and restart everything on Saturday. Then I’ll follow the guide on the OBDII site again.

Thanks!

 

Well, got the smog done a couple of weeks ago and passed with flying colors, BUT...

This afternoon right when I parked the truck I dumped basically all of my coolant. Not sure if it overheated and THEN dumped all the coolant or it started overheating after that, but it got to about 3/4 on the temp gauge.

Won’t have time to look into it more probably until next weekend but water was pouring out of the coolant reservoir cap and it seems like also somewhere on that side of the truck, possibly behind the engine but I can’t tell. Seems like it was happening mainly on the side of the coolant reservoir. I’m hoping it’s not that nightmare hose, it would be very inconvenient for me to need to drop the transmission right now.

Any idea where the cooling system hose connections are? If someone happens to know offhand and can give me a list of places to check that would be awesome. It lost a huge amount of fluid really fast so either a hose completely disconnected or just ripped in half. It was running fine when I parked it so I don’t think the block cracked or anything dramatic like that.

Edit: I should also note it’s like 90* out today and I was helping my sister move for a few hours and hauled some stuff, might have contributed to the sudden problem...

 

Most likely broke coolant line from higher pressure

When you shut off ANY engine you turn off fan and water pump, so coolant temp in the head WILL SPIKE because of no circulation, this is normal and planned for

Your 2002 2.3l Duratec runs a Degas system not an Overflow system, quite different, Degas bottle is also called an expansion tank

Degas bottle is sealed and will have air in it, the air allows the coolant to expand as its heated up, and any "gassing" from heated coolant leaves this "gas" in the Degas bottle so engine just gets liquid coolant at all times.

Cap on Degas bottle should be rated as 16psi, cap on radiator is sealed, no rating because its not suppose to do anything but seal the radiator

When you shut off a hot engine it gets even hotter so coolant expands even more and pressure in the system can go above 16psi, thats when Degas bottle cap opens and will push out any air at the top FIRST, if pressure keeps building then coolant will start to flow out
Now if..................there were ANY weak spots in coolant hoses or connections.............................now is when you find out, lol, the max pressure causes them to break, which relieves some of the pressure but can also allow air to come into contact with HOT areas inside cooling passages in the head, and thats when the "fun stuff" happens
The superheated air causes coolant to "flash to steam" bumping pressure up to 30+ psi instantly, much faster than Degas cap can get rid of it, and that breaks any leak point even more


So yes, you probably have a broken coolant line somewhere

 

Good to know, never heard of a Degas cap before, that is cool.

Do you think there is any chance of damage to the head from that “flash” to steam?

 

It doesn't damage the head but can damage head gasket

Head is held to the block with bolts and the head gasket is in between

When you heat anything it expands, coolant or METAL
The head and block metal expands as it is heated
The head being at the top and where the gasoline "explodes" gets the hottest, this is why coolant is needed, to carry away this heat
If it gets too hot then the metal expands too much, and this crushes the metal rings in the head gasket that seals each cylinder, a cylinder has 1,000+ PSI when firing so without that metal ring seal those hot gases push out into the gasket material and usually hit a coolant passage hole
Warmed up Cooling system is 16psi
Firing Cylinder 1,000 psi........................so pressure(and air) from the cylinder goes into the cooling system which spikes the pressure in the cooling system and causes coolant loss out Radiator/Degas cap, and leaves air in the system in the head, which causes more overheating.
So as coolant is lost overheating gets worse and worse

If head gets too hot the metal can expand way too much and head metal will crack

This is why when you see engine starting to overheat..................pull over, don't try to make it home, let it cool off and see what problem might be and drive home in short trips letting engine cool down between drives
Head gasket and/or new head(s) will cost $500-$1,500, so if it takes you 5 hours to get home WITHOUT causing blown head gasket or cracked head, you were making $100-$300 an HOUR, not bad for just sitting and driving a bit

 

There are three usual suspects for leaking coolant, listed from easiest to hardest

Heater Bypass Valve - This guy has 4 heater hose connections on it, should be sitting right beside the evaporator box between it and the engine. Two hoses run to the firewall, two hoses connect elsewhere. Indicated usually by coolant pouring out from "somewhere on the passenger side" of the truck. They often crack more than outright burst, so inspect carefully.

Heater Bypass Hose - This is that "nightmare hose" that people go on about. The hose usually doesn't burst, but the 3 way tee that connects the water neck, the thermostat bypass, and the water cooled EGR does. This is located underneath the intake, directly above the starter. Some have swapped it out without removing the trans (I'm not sure how) but it can be done. Personally it would be miles easier to pull the trans to replace it if this is the problem. Buy the dorman hose, it comes with a metal 3 way tee that eliminates the issue of the stock plastic unit. This is indicated with "coolant on the driver side" and has the same issue as the bypass valve. Often cracks but doesn't "explode"

Water Neck Gasket - This is probably right up there in difficulty with the aforementioned hose. You have to drop the trans out, then you can tilt the engine forward quite a bit and disconnect any hoses that need pulled, as well as the coolant temp sensor. Then you can remove the 4 bolts an pull the old gasket out. It will be a stamped steel type gasket, and if factory should have retaining tangs to keep the gasket attached to one or two of the bolts (to ease assembly) This is usually indicated by a coolant leak "you can't see" and often times just pours coolant off the trans bellhousing. Since its about impossible to tell if the water neck is leaking, or if the EGR is leaking, replace BOTH gaskets while you are back there. Honestly, if its the nightmare hose, then replace those gaskets anyway since you'll be back there. I wish I knew about them the few times prior that I had my transmission out, before it started leaking.

 

I think I found the problem today, finally had some time to take a look. Couldn’t see anything under the car leaking so checked the reservoir, couldn’t see anything either. Thought it might be the cap, took that off, and found a large crack in the reservoir at the neck where the cap attaches.

Seems too small to have made me lose ~ 1/2 gal of coolant so fast but I couldn’t find anything else and under that much pressure it may have been the cause since the crack would have been larger while the tank was hot/under pressure, so we’ll see.

Filled the crack with some 5 minute epoxy. Going to let it cure and then fill the tank and run the truck and see if there are any other leaks. Already ordered a new tank because that’s obviously not a permanent fix (in case anyone sees this in the future - don’t do this, it isn’t a repair!), just needed to get some pressure in the system to make sure there aren’t any other issues.



Wish me luck!

 

Yeah, that tank will "overflow" very quickly if you pull the cap off at temp. You could easily lose the amount you had saw.
My original one developed a small pinhole in it, in such a "way" I didn't notice it when I purchased it from the "Buy here, Cry Here" dealership.