Yea you have to call, they are not on the site

 

What were you doing when you broke that shaft?

 

steep sand hill, full throttle, 4lo in reverse with full traction haha.

 

its always reverse that gets you! both the CVs I have broken have been reversing.

 

I just dont like that adapter was the weak link

 

Oh man, that's nasty! I DESTROYED a 903 cv, but that adapters all look brand new still. (knocks on wood)

 

I still havent put my 4wd back together but im making due

 

Holy suspension flex Batman!

 

That flex is ridiculous!

 

The frame helped a bit :p still had more to go.. I need a forklift to get it all the way. Id like to measure it on an rti ramp some day

 

Damn son that's flexy.

I'm late to the game but reverse is what gets you. That's why they say to try not to pull people out in reverse if possible.

 

 

Damn it I need a 4 link

 

Damn. That's what's up!

 

I know im kinda late on this but how much lift did you have with the superlift and the dixon long travel and would it have been more level with the blocks and deavers or a shackle lift and deavers like what would my best option have been with trying to get 6 inches or even 7 or 8 inches to kep it level im trying to do a long travel with 35s under stock fenders and still have the flex and ride of the long travel what would you suggest all together to get there

 

Cant say id ever recommend the lift/long travel combo, however it would be quite easy to be at 8'' lift with that combo, I dont even remember what kind of numbers i had with that setup as I didn't really know what I was doing back then haha. Mikerider's search and rescue project may be a good read for you.

Long travel is typically a snowball effect where things break rather quickly and then you end up wasting money and eventually doing it "right" anyways

 

BUMP



If you've been wondering how well a 2.0 ecoboost works in a ranger you will be learning with me in the next few months

 

Interesting build.. haha. I have put a fusion with the 2.0 ecoboost to the limits. It moves. Crazy that a ranger with a 4.0 can't even compare. Why such a small motor though?

 

I'll be running the FRPP control pack which adds 90ftlb TQ (360 ft/lb). I like the idea of a 300lb 4 banger with tons of room getting great fuel mileage

The 3.5 is very tough to make fit and the 2.0 has the same Bell housing pattern as the m5od.

 

Very nice!! As an owner of a 2.0L EB Fusion, I've spent awhile wondering if I could ever make it work in my truck. Definitely looking forward to seeing how this goes!

 

I'm definately interested to see what happens. I had no idea that the bellhousing was same as a ranger. Which ranger motor has the same bell housing? The 2.3?

 

Yea the 2.3 so I'll have to try the non hd tranny, if that just breaks too easily then I'll have to make an adapter and try something different. I'm not too sure how far off the bellhousing is on the m5odr1-hd.

I forsee trannys being an issue one way or another. Maybe I'll have to do a divorced tcase off a miata tranny

 

I'm starting to think I'm screwed! It's been awhile since I've dealt with ranger stuff and the difference between the HD and non Hd m5ods seem to have me backed into a wall

 

Well the HD was only available on the 4.0. The ratios are already different on the 4.0 manuals, so there's a start. There's also differences on the internal parts. Dewey might know them since he was having issues with rebuilding his 3.0 manual due to the difference in parts.

 

As far as internals go, the HD main shaft has bigger diameter bearing surfaces for where 3rd and 4th ride and the spline where the 3-4 hub slider is also bigger and the synchro for 3-4 is also bigger. As far as the rest goes, it's all the same.
I had a nightmare of a time with trying to get that mainshaft to work. Even the owner of a transmission company that had been in business for 30+ years didn't know that they were different. But that didn't stop him from screwing me over