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Old 06-12-2007
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Check Engine light issue

Hey all,

I have a '97 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L and I've been having this issue with my check engine light. The light came on one day about a month ago, but the truck kept at 70 as I was going down the highway, nothin happened, no overheating, etc. So I kept driving it until I took it to a mechanic, ran a test on the codes, and said I had a vacuum leak, which he then fixed, and cleared the codes. Went home with no light on, then as I left again, light came back on, went back to the mechanic, he said he was getting nothing new, just old codes, and sent me on my way.

Any idea what could be causing the light to come on? I'm due for an oil change soon but I don't think that is causing it, I have about 500 miles to go before i hit the recommended mileage to change it. I've kept the truck in pretty good shape, replaced spark plugs recently, air filter, etc. It runs fine...the light just bothers me, especially if there was something serious wrong with the engine while I was driving, I probably wouldn't notice immediately.

Any input is great.
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Old 06-12-2007
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Welcome to R-F man!

sounds like the mechanic is just giving you the run around. Take it to the local autozone or advance auto parts, whichever store is closest to you and have them scan it, they don't charge anything for it. Hows your gas mileage lately? -Mike-
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Old 06-12-2007
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Icon9

Thanks, I get around 17mpg with this thing, its pretty decent (Idk what the standard is if thats less than it or what not) but its sad that I know people with 8 cyl's that get that same mileage. I really like it though, mainly what I'm doing now is trying to spice it up a bit, add some fender flares, i put new tailights on it, i'll have to get some pictures later.
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Old 06-12-2007
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20-21 is more the standard according to alot of the other 4banger members on here. that's more or less what I get with my Ranger anyway. 02 sensor going out possibly? if the mechanic is right, if there is a vaccum leak, you should be able to hear it when you pop the hood and run the engine depending how big the leak is. -Mike-
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Old 06-12-2007
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If the CEL came back on shortly after you re-started the truck Check the canister purge valve.It is only supposed to open briefly when starting then close again.Sometimes they will stick open and act as a vacume leak and throw a code.
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Old 06-12-2007
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that's a new one on me, never heard of it -Mike-
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Old 06-12-2007
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Happened to me on a 94 2.3 .Took it out and could blow through it.Rapped it against a block of wood a few times .Couldn't blow through it again.Reinstalled it and no CEL.
Who'd a thunk?
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Old 06-13-2007
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Well, I went out and bought an OBD-II scanner and here's the code: P1443, and my ranger repair book refers to that code as "Evaporative purge flow sensor fault". I went to my local Murray's auto and they really didn't give me a solid answer to it; gas cap (which I just replaced to check this), a leak in the hose going to the canister, etc. Any thoughts?

Dave
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Old 06-13-2007
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Well, I think I figured it out, and I'm gonna post a pretty detailed explanation to help others that might run into this problem. I google-d my DTC code (P1443) and I found a page that had my exact need, same model truck, same code. Apparently, this code deals directly with the vapor canister, located directly (on a '97 ranger anyways) behind the drivers side headlight. It has two hoses running into it plus what look like two caps on the top. (It's left of the battery for me.) The guy replaced this and the CEL went off after a few driving cycles and remained off ever since (1500 miles at the time of his post.) So i'm gonna give this a whirl, a new vapor canister on Ebay is around $75.

Thanks for all your help! I'll post if it fixed it or not.

Dave
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Old 06-14-2007
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i had the same code. replace the purge valve first (cheaper) and then the solenoid that are in the top line leading to the canister .. right next to the battery. i ended up replacing both and the code went away for good.
i doubt it is the canister itself.
i used motorcraft parts.

oh and i replaced the vac line too as it was original/cracking.
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Old 06-14-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97ranger xlt
i had the same code. replace the purge valve first (cheaper) and then the solenoid that are in the top line leading to the canister .. right next to the battery. i ended up replacing both and the code went away for good.
i doubt it is the canister itself.
i used motorcraft parts.

oh and i replaced the vac line too as it was original/cracking.
I believe you meant replace the purge switch first as the solenoid is the valve.
The valve solenoid is between the switch and the canister.
And I second replacing the vac lines.
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Old 06-14-2007
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well ford calls it a purge valve part no F57Z-14A606BA and a purge solenoid part no E6ZZ9C915A
the purge solenoid is a brass colored cylinder shaped deal.. and as you say is between the valve and the canister. that is the more expensive item. i paid $24 for the valve...
but the solenoid was $70 (ouch..)
both from ford as autozone didn't have them...
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